Don's Crack* E1 5b
[Textbook fist jam., 3 kb]10m. Not unexpectedly, the right-hand crack is thuggish. Fortunately it is well-protected and the difficulties are soon over. Thought by many to be a harder proposition than Brown's! © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Whillans 1950s 1955

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

Photo: Textbook fist jam. © Guy Maddox
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

2nd go. Just needed a little more ggrrrr to get the jams in :)
Climbster - Lead RP - 27/Jul/14 with Ian

Got it 2nd go, on my 1st go i trapped a nerve in my hand on a pebble while jamming, after the feeling returned to my fingers i got it next try.
Bloke on a Rope - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Vic, Matt

soph - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

4/31. Felt harder than last time.
Nick Russell - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

4 on Staffordshire nose.
Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/14

soph - 2nd - 24/Apr/14 with Lindy Smith

Not the most inspiring of lines to look at, but a few great moves. Heel hooking with fist jams and unusual combination
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/13 with Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham

Mint route, tough though
Andrew Abraham - 2nd dog - 08/Dec/13 with Nick Whimster, Clement Attwood

Back of the crack in the small niche was damp and I couldn't get the jam to stick. I'll be back!
Mr. K - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/13 with Adam Radcliff

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

not too bad for hvs bomber jams the whole way and a knee bar
tgeh - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13 with imogene, dan geh

Number Five of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose15.07.12
Brown - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

All a bit brutal, classic Whillans! This one should stay a HVS sandbag in my opinion, makes it more fun!
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Neil Mackie

Only took two people and 20 minutes to get Ralph's cam out of the crack
Thinker01 - 2nd RP - 26/Jul/12 with Ralph Wilkinson

Desperate
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 26/Jul/12

Brown - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with Lily

Might of had a rest/haul on the super wet greasy middle section
Maken - 2nd - 10/Jun/12 with Tom Allsop

1 fall, soaking wet, mingin, brutal and fuckin brilliant! Cant wait to get on Browns effort next time!
tallsop - 10/Jun/12 with Chris

Hard but over quickly and well protected, stiff HVS. Had to retreat after the first few attempts at the crux to tape up
Nick Russell - Lead RP - 27/May/12 with Steve Shenton

Wham jam, thank you ma'am!
Souljah - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Andi, Dave and SAS Bob!

Damp
mark20 - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 25/Feb/12

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with alex minshall, Huw

Hidden - 2012

cat22 - 2nd - 06/Nov/11 with Mike

quality route well worth 2 stars even if it is all over a bit too soon. Found very straight forward perfect jams and a lay back exit. Those with out some oomph and jamming skills probably find it much harder though.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Dave Mason - 2nd dnf - 18/Oct/11 with Adam Gill, Trev Tatler

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Jul/11

Pretty straightforward jamming fest. Shortlived, I used jams in the back of the crack and some good holds arrived
Cragrat Rich - Solo O/S - 26/Jul/11

Soooo hard but possibly 'cause I'm short.. Had to pop for a jam!
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11 with Tom

JRae - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with A Saul

Takes a long reach but isn't too bad, probs fair at HVS.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dog - May/11

jmjw - Lead β - 25/Apr/11 with Dan P

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with J. Iles-Smith

Bloody nails!
odox - 2nd dnf - 27/Jun/10 with Andrew Birtwistle

Boy - 17/Apr/10 with Adam , Nige Kershaw

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - 20/Mar/09

switch - Lead O/S - 2009 with Nickie

snakebite - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08 with Matt Reynolds

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08 with New Mills Duncan

Pete Graham - 2nd - 31/May/08 with Luke Porter

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 03/May/08 with Ash

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07

mark s - Lead - 29/Sep/07 with andi t

simoncov - TR dog - 08/Sep/07 with Simon Chetwynd

Jon Read - Solo O/S - 03/Sep/07 with andi turner

nige - Lead - 20/Aug/07 with mark hounslea

Lawrence Eccles - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with A. Crook

Hard, with brutal jamming, and sloping. Undergaded, but worthwile. Not seconded
Steve Banham - Lead dog - 14/Mar/07 with Phil R

Rob Kennard - 2007

kato'sdad - Lead - 05/Mar/06 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Lead - Sep/05

mark s - 2005

ArnaudG - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Dunc

sadams - Lead dnf - 02/May/04 with Tom Briggs

ASchwirtz - TR O/S - 27/Jul/03 with Mike Todd

Hidden - 2003

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 18/Jun/02 with Duncan Irving

Roget - Solo rpt - 10/May/01

Roget - Lead O/S - 03/May/01

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 16/May/98 with Dave Hassall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/96

Ken Taylor - TR - 15/Jun/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
j.townley, Michael Hood

Voting
Total votes cast 81
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E20 of 28
hard E15 of 28
E19 of 28
easy E11 of 28
hard HVS13 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard 5c0 of 27
5c0 of 27
easy 5c4 of 27
hard 5b12 of 27
5b11 of 27
easy 5b0 of 27
hard 5a0 of 27
5a0 of 27
easy 5a0 of 27
3 Stars1 of 26
2 Stars19 of 26
1 Star6 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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