Rockfax Description
10m. Not unexpectedly, the right-hand crack is thuggish. Fortunately it is well-protected and the difficulties are soon over. Thought by many to be a harder proposition than Brown's! © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1950s 1955

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

FlavioL1989 10/Oct Lead G/U
John Higgs 04/Jul Solo rpt
Sam Simpson 18/Jun Lead O/S
John Higgs 06/Jun Solo O/S
James Oakes 26/May 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May Lead O/S
with noaks
Jake Young 19/Apr Lead O/S

Pretty happy with this, quite good.

with Huw
Hidden 19/Apr 2nd
PeteWilson 07/Apr 2nd

hard! fell off this one, really reachy

with John P, Andi T
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
Climbster 27/Jul/14 Lead G/U

2nd go. Just needed a little more ggrrrr to get the jams in :)

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Got it 2nd go, on my 1st go i trapped a nerve in my hand on a pebble while jamming, after the feeling returned to my fingers i got it next try.

with Vic, Matt
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 20/Jul/14 2nd

4/31. Felt harder than last time.

Alex Winter 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt

4 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead RP
MichaelGallimore 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Miles
soph 24/Apr/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
monsteratt 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Not the most inspiring of lines to look at, but a few great moves. Heel hooking with fist jams and unusual combination

with Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham
Andrew Abraham 08/Dec/13 2nd dog

Mint route, tough though

Mr. K 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Back of the crack in the small niche was damp and I couldn't get the jam to stick. I'll be back!

with Adam Radcliff
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
tgeh 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

not too bad for hvs bomber jams the whole way and a knee bar

with imogene, dan geh
Brown 22/Sep/12 2nd

Number Five of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose15.07.12

with Andy R
Dan Geh 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

All a bit brutal, classic Whillans! This one should stay a HVS sandbag in my opinion, makes it more fun!

with Neil Mackie
Thinker01 26/Jul/12 2nd RP

Only took two people and 20 minutes to get Ralph's cam out of the crack

with Ralph Wilkinson
RFWilkie 26/Jul/12 Lead dog


Brown 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Lilifa
Maken 10/Jun/12 2nd

Might of had a rest/haul on the super wet greasy middle section

tallsop 10/Jun/12 -

1 fall, soaking wet, mingin, brutal and fuckin brilliant! Cant wait to get on Browns effort next time!

with Chris
Nick Russell 27/May/12 Lead RP

Hard but over quickly and well protected, stiff HVS. Had to retreat after the first few attempts at the crux to tape up

Souljah 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Wham jam, thank you ma'am!

with Andi, Dave and SAS Bob!
mark20 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead
JamieSparkes 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with alex minshall, Huw
Hidden ??/2012 -
cat22 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Mike
Graeme Hammond 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

quality route well worth 2 stars even if it is all over a bit too soon. Found very straight forward perfect jams and a lay back exit. Those with out some oomph and jamming skills probably find it much harder though.

with Jim
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 18/Oct/11 2nd dnf
with Adam Gill, Trev Tatler
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Cragrat Rich 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S

Pretty straightforward jamming fest. Shortlived, I used jams in the back of the crack and some good holds arrived

BeccaSnowden 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

Soooo hard but possibly 'cause I'm short.. Had to pop for a jam!

with Tom
JRae 23/Jul/11 Lead
with A Saul
thomasadixon 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Takes a long reach but isn't too bad, probs fair at HVS.

with Becca
Reaver2k 23/Jul/11 2nd
with JRae
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead dog
jmjw 25/Apr/11 Lead β
with Dan P
bigie bob 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
odox 27/Jun/10 2nd dnf

Bloody nails!

andybirtwistle 27/Jun/10 Lead
Boy 17/Apr/10 -
with Adam , Nige Kershaw
John Southworth 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 01/Apr/09 Lead

Cold and a bit green. Up and down 1st moves to place runners, then did upper section quickly before hands froze and arms expired

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 20/Mar/09 -
switch ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Nickie
snakebite 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with New Mills Duncan
Pete Graham 31/May/08 2nd
with Luke Porter
Rich Kirby 03/May/08 2nd
with Ash
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead
simoncov 08/Sep/07 TR dog
with Simon Chetwynd
Jon Read 03/Sep/07 Solo O/S
nige 20/Aug/07 Lead
with mark hounslea
Lawrence Eccles ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with A. Crook
Steve Banham 14/Mar/07 Lead dog

Hard, with brutal jamming, and sloping. Undergaded, but worthwile. Not seconded

with Phil R
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
kato'sdad 05/Mar/06 Lead
RobSimmo 05/Mar/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
ArnaudG ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dunc
sadams 02/May/04 Lead dnf
with Tom Briggs
ASchwirtz 27/Jul/03 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
goi.ashmore 18/Jun/02 Lead RP
with Duncan Irving
Gus ??/2002 Lead
Roget 10/May/01 Solo rpt
Roget 03/May/01 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 16/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Hassall
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/82 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hthom, leoch01, j.townley, Michael Hood
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set