Follow the couloir which falls from the left of the hanging glacier. First pitch after the bergshrund is steep and can be quite thin. Follow the right hand branch of the couloir past some more mixed steps to the snow field left of the hanging glacier. Follow this directly to a ramp below the upper bastion of the face. Traverse leftwards for 50m across sometimes brittle ice to an obvious rocky ramp (M4+) and follow this to the arete left of the summit. Climb this to a breche and from here either descend the couloir to the glacier or continue to the summit via a chimney/corner system in two pitches.
French description and photos here:
Big risk of rockfall at the start of the route !
Maurice Fourastier,H. Breton,A. Manhes 01/Sep/1936
A very long day. Left the Pre de Madame Carle at 1.30am and arrived back in Ailefroide at 10.20pm. Very warm, glacier didn't refreeze very well overnight and conditions were poor on the route. Descent involved hours of wading in very heavy snow. HamishD - AltLd - 04/Jun/10 with Francois-Xavier Woestelandt
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