Chinon** HVS 5a
[Paula on Chinon, 3 kb]14m.

Rockfax Description
Exposed, highly enjoyable arete climbing. Pull rightwards from the start of Shiraz to gain the arete, and follow it to the top; belay on blocks. It's also possible to start to the right of the arete at a short crack at the same grade. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
on the Velvet Wall 5 mins walk from main crag

Photo: Paula on Chinon © Robin Brooke
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 139 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

great steep climbing, if only it was twice the length!
callumbtaylor - 2nd - 23/Jul/15 with Jack Peate

Fantastic line and really fun climbing, but over way too soon.
peaterpan - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/15 with callumbtaylor

ReubenS1990 - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with Whipinator

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/15

Maria Bechaalani - Lead - Jun/15 with Robin Morton

Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Steve Newman, Anita Christensen

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/15

Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Marta Adamus, Anne-Marie Shepherd

Norman_P_W - 2nd - 23/May/15 with Bob M

Dizz - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Dave Frost

deklan - Solo - 2015

garywong - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Patrick Goodwin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/14

philboy - 2nd - 05/Aug/14 with matt g

DanChad - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Chris Murray

Lovely. A mini gem.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 03/Aug/14 with Dan Chadfield

Felt like Dr Who on this route.....
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 03/Aug/14 with Dan Chadfield

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/14

Jaysquared69 - Lead - 02/Aug/14 with Olly P

Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/14 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - 2nd - Aug/14 with Robin Brooke

Carl Watkins - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with jackie, sam

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/14

RachelP - 2nd - 25/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/14

GPN - Lead - 17/Apr/14 with Annette

net - 2nd - 17/Apr/14 with George

Andrew1 - 2nd - 09/Apr/14 with Hulda

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Nov/13

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/13

Wilbur - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/13 with Paul Winder

rd20 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Loic

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Laura D

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/13

scott quinn - 2nd - 07/Jun/13

Tom.Priestley - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Scott Quinn

RachelP - 2nd - 06/Jun/13

Jus - Solo O/S - 31/May/13

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Chris Vanderz

DanielGyi - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with Bart Harris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/12

Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Alice du Preez

hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Lionel

myoung - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Helen

Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Alex

LukeyG - Lead - 08/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jul/12

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Anna

gw3285 - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Anthony Dixon - 02/Jun/12

steven - 2nd O/S - 18/May/12 with Paul Horabin

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/12

themadbrown - 2nd - 12/Apr/12 with james

Struggled
Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/12 with themadbrown

Becky E - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Matt Fennelow

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Becky Ellis

stevelismore - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Becky PCC

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Gavin Singleton

asmith37 - 2nd rpt - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Emma Hawkins

superb micro route
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Dick

hutchay - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12

Helnorris - 2nd - 14/Mar/12 with Steve Redmond

Easy more like vs4c. Quality though on some excellent rough rock
stvredmond - Lead - 12/Mar/12 with Helen Norris

paul horabin - Lead - 2012

mandy - Lead O/S - Oct/11 with elf

Lovely. Most of Jake's gear fell out as usual.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/11 with J. Iles-Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

givemetea - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11

Really nice, but only VS.
broc - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Paul, Luke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

Awesome climb. Would've loved to try the Lead but was on a time limit.
Voltemands - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Carlene HIll

WalnutHorse - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/11

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Caspian

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with john crook

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Martin Cleever

nice little route
Martin Cleaver - 2nd - 24/Jun/11 with alex smith

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/11

just one more - 2nd - 01/Jun/11 with tim b

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 20/May/11 with Steve

Edd Reed - 2nd rpt - 19/May/11 with Martin Allen

Edd Reed - 2nd rpt - 19/May/11 with Martin Allen

jtree03 - Lead - 02/May/11 with Brother Al

John Roe - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Iain (Jocky) Marr

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/11

Great route
Swirly - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Dale and Nia

nia - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Sep/10

Lovely moves and position
Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Matt Reed

Shauna - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Jules

JoEglington - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Great micro route - best pro in the world!
Rob Exile Ward - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/10 with L Edwards

Really good fun. Decent gear and positive holds when needed.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Katherine Shaw

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Jo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10

Rosie Henstock - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Laurence

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Rosie Henstock

Paul Bowen - 2nd - 01/Jun/10 with Rebecca Hayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10 with Dominic Turner

HVS 5a in guide book. Lead but with runners in place from previous climber.
martinp - Lead - 26/Apr/10 with IanH

RobRock84 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Chris price

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/09

belay bunny turned bad - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/09 with Pat

gareth r - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Paul

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Martin Skinner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/07

Done on gear placed by Dave
Chris the Tall - Lead β - 13/Nov/07 with Dave J

gareth scott borthwick - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/07 with Heddwyn Fletcher

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/04

Woody63 - 2nd - 05/Aug/04 with Dave W

Hidden - Lead - May/01

Hidden - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/99

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/98

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 25/May/98 with Bill Russell

alan moore - 1997

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Yanis Nayu, CRiddiford, Ropeboy

Voting
Total votes cast 121
hard E10 of 45
E10 of 45
easy E11 of 45
hard HVS2 of 45
HVS15 of 45
easy HVS19 of 45
hard VS8 of 45
VS0 of 45
easy VS0 of 45
hard 5b0 of 42
5b0 of 42
easy 5b0 of 42
hard 5a0 of 42
5a15 of 42
easy 5a19 of 42
hard 4c7 of 42
4c1 of 42
easy 4c0 of 42
3 Stars4 of 34
2 Stars24 of 34
1 Star6 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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