UKC

6654m. 4-7 days. Standard route up the north peak of Huascarán. Slightly harder than south peak but less risk of avalanche usually. Couple of interesting pitches, some in climb up to Garganta col and at least one on summit day to get over a bergschrund. Long slow plod on the summit plateau. Conditions in icefall leading up to Garganta change from year to year and are usually the hardest part of the climb.

1908.

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Route of Interest
Southwest Ridge (Normal Route)

Grade: AD- ***
(Chopicalqui)

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