20m. A varied route climbing the wall to the right of Alcove crack. Start at the right of the wall and use flakes to reach the sandy break. Move right and climb the crack for a couple of moves. At the overlap pull out left on to the wall and use crimps to reach a finger lock. Continue to the ledge above. Gain 2 small crimps on the head wall and slap for a sloper. Continue to the top.
[Mod update: Climbing high and placing gear in the crack of 'The Sandman' prior to traversing drops the grade to E3]
John Crook, Iain Smith 01/May/2010
I see someone's placed a couple of pegs around the lower crux. This should make the route a more friendly onsight proposition, because the good wire at this level was hard to place. The technical crux and the move I found 6b, was in the upper section. I believe this is definitely E4 if side runners aren't used in Alcove crack (and possibly even if they are) Exodus - Lead - 01/May/14 with Iain Smith