Derbyshire > Castle Naze >
 
Scoop Face Direct* HVS 5b

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[Al Evans soloing on Castle Naze 1976, 3 kb]10m. Climb left from the block with difficulty (5b for the tall), up the wall and into the centre of The Scoop via a good pocket and hard mantelshelf. Finish as for the regular route. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Al Evans soloing on Castle Naze 1976 © Jean Horsfall
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 89 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

angus - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/14

First E1, fell off the start a couple of times down to a boulder mat before working out the sequence. Scary move into the scoop with one bad cam
meltdown34 - Lead β - 17/Jul/14

steven - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Brian Hull

sann1458 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Geoff Evatt

gregoritos - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/14

Joe-98 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Flash/ Repeat depending on your ethical stance towards gear weighting, really did show up how much of a limestone climber I was on this one but learnt a lesson or two about mantelshelfing.
Quarryboy - Lead β - 01/Mar/14 with Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis

Jumped off the bottom move a few times then did the rest in one go.
Alkis - Lead β - 01/Mar/14 with Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 20/Oct/13 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 20/Oct/13 with Wee man

frankcp87 - TR - 02/Sep/13

james and lucy
schwenk - 2nd - 19/Aug/13

James Oakes - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Tim Slater

Jonathan Hall - TR - 07/Jun/13 with Ed Sanderson

amccann - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/13

had to work out a sequence for the start. Definitely E1 as the guidebook suggests.
mrginna - Lead RP - 01/Jun/13 with lukebamforth, Emma Campbell

Hidden - TR dog - 01/Jun/13

sputnik - TR rpt - 04/May/13

guide says E1 5c, first gear long way up, think it deserves it
PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Andrew Graham

Easy E1 5b
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13

desperate for me.
Marti999 - Lead RP - 31/Mar/13 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 31/Mar/13 with Marti999

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12

PhilCartwright - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Verity Cross, Liam Brown, Ian Poxon

started the initial moves before i knew it i was on the scoop and having my harness thrown to me so i could finish it
peteramsden - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Sam Melville - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/11

nice rockover move
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Nick

sputnik - TR β - 03/Aug/11

mary - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Dale Gautrey

Col Allott - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/11

gw3285 - TR - 19/Jun/11

gw3285 - Lead - 19/Jun/11

Ky - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with Dan Timmis, Tim

Dan Timmis - 2nd - Apr/11 with Ky Jones

Goose4 - Lead - 2011

matthomas79 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 25/Sep/10

The book says E1, the votes say E1...I'm calling it my first E1
payeo20 - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Didnt have a cam to fit the hole, decided on a dodgey sideways camming hex...
The Green Giant - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Dewi

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/10 with Mike

andy_e - TR RP - 05/Jun/10

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Cheesesarnie

Tim M - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Chris Sims

Sam Simpson - TR O/S - 12/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

E1 in Rockfax? Potentially my first E1 then, but I'll be honest and say HVS. Footholds on the mantleshelf were too good to make it a bold move worthy of E1, even if I did have no gear below. The E1 will wait.
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Ben Wallace

Great climb, technical start
heavy Belay - 2nd - 23/Apr/10 with Fisher

dswansonlow - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tom Green

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with John

the start makes it a hard 5b
davross1986 - TR rpt - Jul/09 with Dean Dalton

psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Max

Very committing move, but good left foothold. Weirdly got sewing machine leg only once I had reached the safety of the cam hole.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 19/Apr/09 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

A Downing - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Damian Lawson

leopet - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/09 with Mike

summo - 2009

Hidden - Lead - Oct/08

Followed Nick who had lead Keep Arete- would be a scary lead!!
bobpilgrem - TR O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Bob/Nic

Hidden - Sent O/S - 13/Sep/08

Ing - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Stevie G

Alfredo - 2nd - May/08 with Ben H

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Ian Bruce

Shad - Lead - 2007

Shad - Lead - May/06

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/05

Hidden - TR - 07/Sep/05

Laramadness - Solo O/S - 06/Sep/05

edmitchell - Lead O/S - May/05 with kai ren

IOAN D - Lead - 2005 with andrew (Tony)

Jon Read - Lead - Jul/04 with Graham's Stags

Jon Read - Solo - Jun/04

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 02/May/04

Hidden - 2003

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/99

robtrooper - 1997

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 21/May/95

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd dnf - 16/Aug/94 with Steve Dean

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/91

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 19/Jul/86 with John Allen

Hidden - Solo - 27/Aug/80

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/May/77

rogerskews - Solo - 1976

mikej - Solo - 12/Oct/74

mikej - Solo - 27/Aug/74 with E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
monkeymatt, hirving, mmmhumous, PeteWilson, Hidden, Hidden, alimckay

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard E10 of 21
E12 of 21
easy E114 of 21
hard HVS3 of 21
HVS2 of 21
easy HVS0 of 21
hard VS0 of 21
VS0 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5c1 of 18
5c4 of 18
easy 5c1 of 18
hard 5b10 of 18
5b2 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
hard 5a0 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars2 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star2 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed19 of 89 (21.3%)
Lead36 of 89 (40.4%)
Followed18 of 89 (20.2%)
Toproped11 of 89 (12.4%)
Bouldered1 of 89 (1.1%)
Unknown4 of 89 (4.5%)

'Climbed'36 of 89 (40.4%)
clean O/S42 of 89 (47.2%)
clean β4 of 89 (4.5%)
clean rpt2 of 89 (2.2%)
clean RP3 of 89 (3.4%)
dogged1 of 89 (1.1%)
dnf1 of 89 (1.1%)