UKC

79m, 4 pitches. Worth a look for the chimney.

There is a small buttress below the main face.

1) Start on the right side of this and swing up to good holds and a diagonal leftwards traverse.
2) Scramble to the bottom of the great flake buttress, move to its left hand side.
3)Squeeze into the tight hole, then up to the left and finish up a shallow chimney.
4) The guide says stride across the gap to a ridge on the right, but this is all very overgrown, so scramble off left.

E. Byne, C Bates, P Russell 25/Sep/1949.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Glyn Davidson 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Did the first two pitches as my dog ran up alongside the crag. At the start of pitch 3 there was nowhere for my dog to easily bypass so backed off the route. Note - topo for pitch 3 (chimney) in Climber\'s Club guidebook is wrong
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the first two pitches as my dog ran up alongside the crag. At the start of pitch 3 there was nowhere for my dog to easily bypass so backed off the route. Note - topo for pitch 3 (chimney) in Climber's Club guidebook is wrong

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Guidebooks for Creigiau'r Dena

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Route of Interest
Cneifion Arete

Grade: D ***
(Cwm Cneifion)

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