Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Slippery Jim HVS 5b

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8m. The awkward and often rather green groove is squirmed to a rounded exit. The route is not popular, partly because of where it is and partly because it's hard! Usually feels like E1. © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Whillans 1958

Ticklists: Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

67hours - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Cookie

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with George Cave

soph - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

12/31. Really enjoyable, a lovely bit of light relief after the crack of gloom.
Nick Russell - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

12 on Staffordshire nose. Was wearing my comfy shoes, which had big holes in them. Made the laybacking on this feel more precarious than it needed to.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

Andrew Abraham - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/14 with Pete Bridgewood, Ky

On Pete's gear.
Chriswallis2 - Lead β - 12/Jun/14 with Andy Stoke

willmurphy - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/14

morganator - 2nd - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with jon morgan

Inspired by the pic of don whillans in the BMC guide. Didn't manage to find that contorted rest though.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Brendan

sam corbett - Solo - May/14

sam corbett - Solo O/S - May/14

Noodles30 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14

slime in the crack. Still great though, especially the finish
switch - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with James

Hidden - 2014

classico!!
Alistair Corbett - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/13

Difficult to place gear, but short enough to not become too tiring
mop449 - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/13 with Sara Sha'ath

Climbster - 2nd β - 04/Sep/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Matt

vinspin - 23/Aug/13 with kieran19

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

PeteWilson - 2nd - 09/Apr/13 with Andrew Graham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

ianstevens - 24/Feb/13

Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13

Did fall once, but managed to climb to the top with persistence on the arms. First climbing expedition outdoors.
mikedeleyser - TR dog - 24/Feb/13

Brown - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with michael porter

B-bop - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11 with T Max

Pulled two friends out on fall. Damaged finger prevented second attempt
Rock Zigger - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

very wet and dirty
northy1983 - Lead O/S - 2011 with seb

It sure was slipery for the hands, and rather damp in the cracks but quality rock for the feet to bridge all the way to the top. The Top out was quite exiting on lead, theres not a lot for your hands up there and I wouldn't trust that heather!
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10 with Clement Attwood

A slippery crack tricky bridging and a tricky exit. Good value for its length
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Andrew Abraham

Well, it looked in reasonable condition but clearly it wasn't. When does get in condition if not mid July?
alexyoung - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Cockney Andy

Laura-lou - Lead - 19/Jun/10 with chris prescott, Chink

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Spidermunkie - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Little wet at the top, but good
willoates - Solo O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Solo - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Jun/09

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/May/07

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

mark s - 2005

nai - Lead - 1995

Tony Little - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/91 with Sam

adi bryant - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/91

Andy Say - Solo - 19/Aug/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/90

Hidden - Solo - 23/Jun/88

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, mrdigitaljedi, JonmapDL, p_won, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, pottsworth

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard E10 of 16
E11 of 16
easy E11 of 16
hard HVS1 of 16
HVS5 of 16
easy HVS8 of 16
hard VS0 of 16
VS0 of 16
easy VS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
hard 5b1 of 14
5b4 of 14
easy 5b1 of 14
hard 5a7 of 14
5a1 of 14
easy 5a0 of 14
3 Stars1 of 9
2 Stars4 of 9
1 Star4 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed12 of 61 (19.7%)
Lead29 of 61 (47.5%)
Followed11 of 61 (18.0%)
Toproped2 of 61 (3.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 61 (1.6%)
Unknown6 of 61 (9.8%)

'Climbed'23 of 61 (37.7%)
clean O/S29 of 61 (47.5%)
clean β3 of 61 (4.9%)
clean rpt2 of 61 (3.3%)
dogged2 of 61 (3.3%)
dnf2 of 61 (3.3%)