Slippery Jim HVS 5b
[On Slippery Jim .., 3 kb]8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. The awkward and often rather green groove is squirmed to a rounded exit. The route is not popular, partly because of where it is and partly because it's hard! Usually feels like E1. © ROCKFAX

FA. Don Whillans 1958

Ticklists: Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Photo: On Slippery Jim .. © Peakpdr
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 86 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Last cam popped out on fall (need to inspect placement better in future). Ricki provided a good catch
StefanP - Lead dnf - Oct/15

Green but dry. Felt pretty steady once I abandoned all idea of recreating the Whillans pose in the BMC guide!
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/15 with sk1nfl1nt

bpw666 - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15 with Rebecca north

Marvellous route- super dry today
fredallingham - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15

Layback the whole crack
Rebecca North - 2nd - 11/Jul/15 with bpw666

Callum van Werkhoven - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/15 with Will Murphy

Couldn't manage the lead, a lot of power is needed for the initial move into the cracks.
magicmartin - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/15 with Zane Butcher

Didn't manage the lead, fell off twice on 2nd then finally got it from the bottom on the third try. I will come back for the lead. A very strenous climb!
magicmartin - 2nd β - 08/Jun/15 with Zane Butcher

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!
MichaelGallimore - 2nd - 07/Jun/15 with Flavio

Hidden - TR - 07/Jun/15

Excellent little route, do it if it is in condition!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Becky E

Roaches HVS Challenge #1. 6:30am start, bit hard for that time of day without warmup.
FlavioL1989 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Mike Gallimore

James Oakes - 2nd O/S - 26/May/15 with Steve Ramsden

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 26/May/15 with noaks

Peakpdr - Lead - 04/May/15

Green slippy and classic
Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Andrew Deckon

Kassius - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/15

Andrew will wilson - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/14

Very wet and slippery. Good fun though. Top out was a little sketchy. Took one little fall and couldn't be bothered to lower off for a ground-up go since it was so wet in the crack.
Stuart William - Lead dog - 11/Oct/14 with Mark

Andrew Abraham - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/14 with Sam Riley, Ceara

Quite nice. pretty easy for grade.
Mark Duncan - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/14 with Jon_King

Nice crack to solo.
James rogers86 - Solo - 14/Aug/14

Jon_King - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14 with Mark Duncan

67hours - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Cookie

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with George Cave

soph - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

12/31. Really enjoyable, a lovely bit of light relief after the crack of gloom.
Nick Russell - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

12 on Staffordshire nose. Was wearing my comfy shoes, which had big holes in them. Made the laybacking on this feel more precarious than it needed to.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

Andrew Abraham - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/14 with Pete Bridgewood, Ky

On Pete's gear.
Chriswallis2 - Lead β - 12/Jun/14 with Andy Stoke

Will Murphy - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/14

morganator - 2nd - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

soph - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with jon morgan

Inspired by the pic of don whillans in the BMC guide. Didn't manage to find that contorted rest though.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Brendan

sam corbett - Solo - May/14

sam corbett - Solo O/S - May/14

Noodles30 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14

slime in the crack. Still great though, especially the finish
switch - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with James

Hidden - 2014

Alistair Corbett - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/13

Difficult to place gear, but short enough to not become too tiring
mop449 - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/13 with Sara Sha'ath

Climbster - 2nd β - 04/Sep/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Matt

vinspin - 23/Aug/13 with kieran19

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

PeteWilson - 2nd - 09/Apr/13 with Andrew Graham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

ianstevens - 24/Feb/13

Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13

Did fall once, but managed to climb to the top with persistence on the arms. First climbing expedition outdoors.
mikedeleyser - TR dog - 24/Feb/13

Brown - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with michael porter

B-bop - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11 with T Max

Pulled two friends out on fall. Damaged finger prevented second attempt
Rock Zigger - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

very wet and dirty
northy1983 - Lead O/S - 2011 with seb

It sure was slipery for the hands, and rather damp in the cracks but quality rock for the feet to bridge all the way to the top. The Top out was quite exiting on lead, theres not a lot for your hands up there and I wouldn't trust that heather!
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10 with Clement Attwood

A slippery crack tricky bridging and a tricky exit. Good value for its length
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Andrew Abraham

Well, it looked in reasonable condition but clearly it wasn't. When does get in condition if not mid July?
alexyoung - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Cockney Andy

Laura-lou - Lead - 19/Jun/10 with chris prescott, Chink

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Spidermunkie - Solo O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Little wet at the top, but good
willoates - Solo O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Solo - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Jun/09

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/May/07

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Hidden - 2005

Gus - Lead - 2005

nai - Lead - 1995

Tony Little - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/91 with Sam

adi bryant - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/91

Andy Say - Solo - 19/Aug/91

Roget - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/90

Hidden - Solo - 23/Jun/88

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, hthom, Leo Choi, kim.mulji, mrdigitaljedi, JonmapDL, p_won, PanzerHanzler, pottsworth

Total votes cast 54
hard E10 of 21
E11 of 21
easy E11 of 21
hard HVS2 of 21
HVS9 of 21
easy HVS8 of 21
hard VS0 of 21
VS0 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5c0 of 19
5c0 of 19
easy 5c0 of 19
hard 5b2 of 19
5b7 of 19
easy 5b1 of 19
hard 5a8 of 19
5a1 of 19
easy 5a0 of 19
3 Stars2 of 14
2 Stars6 of 14
1 Star6 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat