Rockfax Description
14m. Follow the right-trending flake by awkward laybacking (good gear is available but it is tricky to place) to bulges, which are crossed by a steep pull and an exit out left. A good line. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1958 Direct Finish Tony Barley 1967

Ticklists: Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Jim Slater 23/Apr Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 23/Apr 2nd rpt
with Jim
KeenClimber 13/Apr Lead dog
with Jim Nutall
steely 12/Oct/15 2nd

Fell off crux on lead after getting pumped on lay back crack. Owain then pissed it much to my frustration. One for another trip.

owain-1978 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
phillipwright 06/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tall Gecko Hands 03/Oct/15 2nd

The first part is a slab without footholds that requires faith in friction, and high feet got me past the crux.

xiangoh 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Nath93 12/Aug/15 TR dog

Layback crack is delightful but top section is tricky to work out, got it second go. First route on grit in 20 odd degree heat which wasn't helpful!

Will Murphy 10/Jun/15 Lead
with Cal, Andy
Callum van Werkhoven 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Will Murphy
Graeme Hammond 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Ace, lower crack was easier than expected, top was quite awkward and committing but with good gear. Good 2nd by Bex

with Becky E
FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #2

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
Hidden 16/May/15 -
Will Murphy 14/May/15 2nd
with Andy
Andy Myers 14/May/15 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 01/May/15 Lead rpt

It took me about a hour to get up it, made the mistake of thinking it would be easier the second time

with Ky
alias dave 18/Apr/15 Lead dog
Daniel Allen 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
John Higgs 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
Theeni 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Joseph
jrccrosby 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

My first successful HVS lead! Some serious fridge hugging at the top, from the ground I thought it was going to be over by that point!

67hours 26/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Matt Cookie
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

13/31. A bit of a wobble on the upper bulge.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S

13 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Andrew Abraham 14/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Stupid rain stopped play after 1 route

with Chris Wallis
Chriswallis2 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Goodstuff 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Absorbing and satisfying, the top crux feels more like 5c. Very upper reaches of HVS.

with Jared
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Morris123 18/May/14 Lead
switch 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Tim H
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Tophe 29/Mar/14 2nd β
with Ben Ochner
soph 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
friendzone1234 ?/Mar/14 Lead

fell on crux twice finished on redpoint without being lowered off

Hidden ??/2014 -
mop449 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Strong but well protected

Climbster 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
PeteWilson 28/Aug/13 2nd


with Andrew Graham
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
Mike W 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 25/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Stuart_Burbidge 05/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Fantastic HVS!

HAJ Francis 04/Jul/13 Lead β
WillDoyle 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
pete_naylor 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf

ran out of the gear size I needed for the very last part of the route and dint fancy risking it, great route though , i will be back!

Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
Ben1983 ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Foot slip. How irritating.

Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
will_benfold 28/Jul/12 Lead dog

Took a fall about half way up, just after the crack changes angle.

with Cameron
cameron_hall 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
g1m147 18/May/12 2nd
with Mick.
Julesthe1st 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sean
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
lost.arrow 16/Oct/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
Petarghh 09/Aug/11 2nd

Got stuck on the lead, came down and seconded after Dan

Hidden 23/Jul/11 TR O/S
minirollsrule 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S

awesome test of layback ability

with Tim Nixon
JaseSSDD 14/Jul/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
Laurence Everitt 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead dnf
donkster 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with mudders
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with michael porter
pipof747 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
bnewman 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hard, awkward crux! Well protected and memorable.

with Amelia
grp 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Steff007 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hannes B 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Neil P
CharlieMack 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route, though i foolishly didnt take any gear big enough for the top half, so just had to run it out.

with Tom Seabridge
Emma-Louise Anderson 14/Oct/10 2nd

A bit commiting but more straight-forward moves than it looked, just need to commit to the lay-back. For leading one day!

tatz45 14/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Awsome route, you need to put the effort in though

monsteratt 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Not too bad to a small foot rail for a rest, but then two awkward and strenuous moves.

Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead dog
sam820 24/Sep/10 Lead β

Most gear in-situ from Terry's attempt

with Matt Roper, Terry
riddle 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

fun, fun, fun

Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hewin 23/Jun/10 TR dog

Bloody hard graft, Emma tried to lead but failed at first bulge so I tried on top rope. The first buldge is tough, after this there is a tough layback move which I did in horrid style. Right hand low, left hand in higher crack to start then bring right hand up and over. There are three good hand holds here but this is blood, sweat and tears!

with WMC
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
FrankW 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Andy P, Lee Bonner
Garron 15/May/10 Lead β

Most gear insitu

The Bad Cough 14/May/10 Lead O/S
with Christian Minett
PeteH 08/May/10 2nd O/S
ndp 08/May/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
ozbaker ??/2010 TR β

After my partner backed off the lead, we couldn't resist it. Fantastic route.

Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
schaff 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
AJ007 01/Jun/09 Lead
with Dan
dan gibson 01/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with AJ
MaccMark 22/May/09 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
highclimber ?/Aug/08 -
bullybones ?/Jul/08 Lead
steveP 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf
with Dan Towns
DanT 07/Jun/08 TR dnf

Laybacked the start but neither Steve nor I could make the final crux move. Steve's attempt was made on the lead whilst mine was on a top rope.

Howard J 06/May/08 2nd dog

I don't like laybacks :(

with Mark Ford
feilx 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Webster
richardhopton 08/Oct/07 Lead dog

Fell 3 bloody times just before the crux, backed off for a teacake then tackled the high foot lay back over gear. Cracking climb, cant wait to lead it again! Half an hour to get the nut out afterwards!

with Matt Thombs
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Mutl3y 21/Apr/07 2nd
with TonyM
nige 25/Aug/06 Lead
with sven rowan
Rob Davies 09/Jul/06 2nd
with Angus McLean
dan gibson 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with karing
Chesh 25/May/06 Lead
with Paul Lestor
goi.ashmore 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Highly amusing

with John Marsland
Hidden 23/Jul/05 2nd O/S
mark s ??/2005 -
Andy Campbell ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Neil
Gus ??/2003 Lead
northy1983 ??/2001 Lead O/S

my first lead. every runner wobbly and phils car broken into after. great being a student

with phil palmer tree
Hidden ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
brady ??/1995 2nd
with John Cameron
Mark Kemball 15/Apr/93 2nd
with Bill Kemball
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/93 Lead
with Pete Carmichael
Jon Read ?/Jan/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/92 Lead
Hidden 05/May/92 Lead
Roget 16/Sep/91 Solo O/S
Rob Davies ?/Sep/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
Hidden 16/May/90 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Tom V ??/1986 -
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Hidden 12/Jun/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson ??/1981 Lead O/S
Darron ??/1977 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mattilda, DanChad, RyanOsborne, dunk3607, SuperLee1985, Jackmccormack, Hidden, hfisher, khalidq, kim.mulji, Jordanh031, Hidden, Hidden, Emma-Louise Anderson, ozbaker, Hidden, alimckay, Hidden, AndyM-LVB, PanzerHanzler, tomboyle, andy jennings
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set