Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Hypothesis** HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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10m. Small wires protect the delicate left-hand arete. © ROCKFAX
FA. Colin Foord 1968

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

67hours - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Cookie

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with George Cave

DWebs - TR O/S - 18/May/14

Adam Long - Lead - 26/Apr/14 with Andi Turner

Hidden - 2014

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 2014

Good route, although it needs a bit more traffic to get rid of the blanket of lichen lower down. Maybe the description should be 'small wires *just about* protect the delicate left-hand arete'. The gear is there when you need it though with nice techy moves in between.
David Kay - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Jules Lane

Very enjoyable to second, right at my limit. Great lead by Dave as it is way more insecure than it looks from below.
Jules Lane - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Mynydd Dave K

Malcolm Bass - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with Andy Brown

Mike W - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

reasonably techy, good to get the head in gear as it isn't just grab and pull, you're propperly climbing.
willoates - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/12

timmsy - 2nd - 16/Sep/12 with Neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

JaseSSDD - 2nd - 29/Mar/12 with Ian Barker

Hidden - 2012

nbotting - 2012

keith leonard - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Scary especially when you fail to see the last gear placement and run it out.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Pete

o/s mainly but tiny bit of beta that there was a wire on the left, though it was obvious from my different crux lay-back sequence, though if I'd spotted one of the other holds before I put it in i could have put it in balance rather than a precarious lay back position, still thought it was worth E1 as per the BMC guides
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Helen, Steve

Coel Hellier - Lead - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Boy - Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

thought this was a vs at first!! after thought it should be a E1 lol
axeman - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with schofield

retreated from the sandy and green mantel, to much wind, not enough boldness
EmmanuelF - 22/Mar/09

b.hayley - 2nd - Sep/08

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

mattyork2 - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with Ally Smith

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/06

on my Third attempt, seemed hard and dangerous for the grade, Mark Button left the gear in from his lead after I had already backed off it!
Andrew Abraham - Lead β - 25/May/05

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Debs & Clare Reading

Bold but very good.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 31/May/04 with Dale

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jun/03

tlr - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/97

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/97

nige - Lead - 1994 with john buckley

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Aug/92

Roget - Solo rpt - 28/Apr/92

Roget - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/90 with jim

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/85

andy gittins - 1984

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1982

GeoffG - Lead - 09/Aug/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E114 of 16
hard HVS1 of 16
HVS1 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard VS0 of 16
VS0 of 16
easy VS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b15 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a1 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars1 of 15
2 Stars11 of 15
1 Star3 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 48 (8.3%)
Lead20 of 48 (41.7%)
Followed14 of 48 (29.2%)
Toproped1 of 48 (2.1%)
Unknown9 of 48 (18.8%)

'Climbed'25 of 48 (52.1%)
clean O/S21 of 48 (43.8%)
clean β1 of 48 (2.1%)
clean rpt1 of 48 (2.1%)