Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Dorothy's Dilemma** E1 5a

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[Dorothy's Dilemma (E1), Roaches Lower Tier, 2 kb]18m. The fine delicate arete is not over endowed with gear and requires commitment and neat footwork. Start on the left, move onto the front face (wires) then press on and stay cool. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell, Dorothy Sorrell 1951

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out.

Photo: Dorothy's Dilemma (E1), Roaches Lower Tier © Steve Ashton
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 80 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

soph - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

16/31. Nice to have something delicate after the previous few classic sandbags.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

16 on Staffordshire nose. Nice to get on something delicate after 15 routes of thuggery.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with Will Benfold

morganator - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

Adam Long - Lead - 26/Apr/14 with Andi Turner

Not as green as it looks. Bold, but steady 5a.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/14

soph - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Lindy Smith

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Rosh

A fun climb with interesting moves up the final arete.
WhipperSnapper - TR O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Maxie

Hidden - 2014

1poundSOCKS - 2nd β - 28/Sep/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 21/Sep/13

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

long run out!
Sam Melville - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/12

Not much different to the HVS Arette to the left in terms of climbing.
willoates - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/12 with Sam Melville

Brown - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

quality
northy1983 - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with andi t

R2B - 2nd - 26/Jun/12

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Lydia Ansorge

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/12

MOB Whillans' Hut meet
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - May/12 with the MOB

nbotting - 2012

zach.stone - 2nd - 15/Jul/11 with Peter Hill

Skipped the lower green bit and traversed in from the gully. Tried going up the right side of the arete for some reason, then found the way on the left. Lovely moves, easy for E1
theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Zach Stone

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Rachel Takacs

Clean :) can imagine very scary on lead but great fun
Takacs - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Laurence Everitt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with michael porter

biobuild - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11

marcoleptic - Lead RP - 14/Jun/11 with Andy Shep

PeteH - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with Noel Peatfield

Loved this route, thought I'd nailed e1 for good, a real confidence booster. Then went to do Crack of Gloom and changed my mind.
ndp - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

donkster - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/09 with ben, DaveNW

cooper leek - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with dave nw, donk

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09

Boy - Oct/09

donkster - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with ki

Ky - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Donk

JWB - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Mark Anstey

bullwinkle - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Jon & Paul

avirdee - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Dave Manwaring

Coel Hellier - Lead - 09/May/08

Hidden - 2008

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/07 with John

davek - 2nd - 21/Apr/07 with Shaun L

I think Neil found this just as scary as I had! Brilliant route though, great climbing. Less popualr than it should be due to the luminous lower section. the guy oi nthe photo is in a funny position? Both time I've stuck to the right of the arete, not even using it that much.
Si dH - 2nd rpt - 04/Nov/06 with Neil Furniss

Si dH - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/05 with Dan Jaeggi

2 good wires and easier than it looks
Chesh - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/05 with ScotsPaul

mark s - 2005

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 2005

Smelly Fox - Solo O/S - 16/Sep/04

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 19/May/04 with Ralph

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Daz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Jun/02 with Viv

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2002 with john d

tlr - 2nd - 2000

Bold climb
Duncan Bourne - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/99 with E Allcock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/97

WB - Lead O/S - 1996 with Guy

nige - Lead - 1994 with john buckley

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/93

Hidden - TR - 21/Feb/93

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/90

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 1990

Tom V - 1986

andy gittins - 1984

Hidden - Solo - 01/Jul/82

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/82

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1982

nbotting - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, Bloke on a Rope, RM199, Hidden, hlegge, Hidden, Hidden, Alaina, gangalf, tomboyle, tatz45

Voting
Total votes cast 70
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E111 of 19
easy E14 of 19
hard HVS4 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 27
5b0 of 27
easy 5b0 of 27
hard 5a17 of 27
5a8 of 27
easy 5a2 of 27
hard 4c0 of 27
4c0 of 27
easy 4c0 of 27
3 Stars0 of 24
2 Stars17 of 24
1 Star6 of 24
0 Stars1 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 80 (5.0%)
Lead40 of 80 (50.0%)
Followed21 of 80 (26.2%)
Toproped3 of 80 (3.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 80 (1.2%)
Unknown11 of 80 (13.8%)

'Climbed'28 of 80 (35.0%)
clean O/S44 of 80 (55.0%)
clean β1 of 80 (1.2%)
clean rpt6 of 80 (7.5%)
clean RP1 of 80 (1.2%)