Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Bengal Buttress** HVS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Dorothy's Dilemma
 
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[Bengal Buttress Area, 2 kb]28m. Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up this delicately (poor protection) then step left to finish up a short flake crack. Mild at the grade but with a serious crucial section that requires a careful approach. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ivan Waller 1930

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Bengal Buttress Area © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 116 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Nice climb, but half of it did not have any features. Luckily, the grit stone was very nice for the feet, the shoes just stuck to it.
bazilikiukas - TR dog - 01/Mar/14 with Mary

Hidden - 2014

Only found 4 runners so quite scary. Too escapable to be worth any stars.
AndrewP - Lead - 28/Sep/13 with FelixPeterken

FelixPeterken - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Andrew Peterken

jimbonfire - 11/Jul/13

Very green, makes the traverse a bit scary. Improves greatly once you make the move up the right hand side of the slab. I'll give it a star for history, and maybe it could be worth two given a good clean.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Simon

Nice bold climbing, low in the grade but defo HVS
Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13

Green low down and scary all over!
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Toby

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Paul Bolton

AndrewJamesCherry - Lead O/S - 2013 with harry fisher

sgl - Lead - 27/Jul/12 with Susie, chad

Nice climbing, low in grade, hard part near to gear and rock is much cleaner than it looks!
Chad123 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Sam

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 22/Jul/12

eloise - TR O/S - 11/Jul/12

Bottom is green. Middle is bold. Top is eliminate.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with C. Prescott

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12

slacky - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Andes, Gary

JaseSSDD - 2nd - 14/Jul/11 with Ian Barker

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

craig naylor - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with nick

matthias13 - Lead - 24/May/11 with wirralclimber1984

wirralclimber1984 - AltLd O/S - 24/May/11 with richard matthias

Sidekick - Solo O/S - 04/May/11

very disappointing, no way a 2 star route!
Tom Redmond - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with jake young

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Tom Redmond

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Gareth Lewis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Pete

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 22/May/10 with phil biglands

grady - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Very lichenous pity.
Garron - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Byronius Maximus - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Graeme Hammond

needs a carefull approch as protection is poor in middle section, nice climb though, did it before it got to hot luckerly.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Byron Buck

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with pete

Danhan - Lead - 2009 with Steve

keith leonard - 2009

Very cold....but a lovely climb...even though i some how managed to travese above the gear so had to drop back down....!
natalie28 - 2nd - 31/Dec/08 with Rik

tomboyle - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/08 with horsi

stevepotter - Lead - 29/Jun/08 with Adie

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/07 with Suzanne Sheehy

Very slimy and in the dark, nice climbing but could do with some more gear. Perhaps a bolt?
Circus - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Loz

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 11/Nov/07 with Adam

donkster - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with dennis

Richard Fox - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Rob Dorman

Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Martin Kocsis

davek - 2nd - 21/Mar/07 with Shaun L

Didnt think it was worth 2 stars. Dorothy's Dilemma is miles better.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Neil Furniss

Duncan I - 2007

Mind bendingly scary!
Whitt - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/06

Determined to get a couple of routes in between the England match and the BMC meeting
Chris the Tall - Solo rpt - 15/Jun/06

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/06

dan gibson - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/05

mark s - 2005

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 2005

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - Oct/04 with Rob Clifton

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/04 with ChrisA

James B - 30/May/04

Stig - 2nd O/S - 23/May/04 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Tris Fox led, was a bit run out and there were some nice plants to see on the way
Andrew Abraham - 2nd O/S - 2004

Lev - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/03 with Spen

Chris the Tall - Solo O/S - Oct/03

Hidden - Lead - Aug/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/03

Theeni - Lead - Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/03

Lev - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/03 with Spen

bigphil - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jan/01

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/00

tlr - Lead - 2000

philhilo - 2000 with brian rodgers

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000 with Gaz Haynes

John Marsland - Lead - 03/May/99 with Ian Manocha

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - Jun/98 with Richard Bower

antroy - Lead - 10/Apr/98

Phil West - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/96 with David Atherton

jmr - Lead - 02/Jun/96 with Paul Greenhow

brady - 2nd - 1996 with John Cameron

Duncan Bourne - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/95

michael burrows - Solo - 27/Jun/95

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 27/May/95 with Dave McGimpsey

nai - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/93

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/93

Iain Thow - Lead - 15/May/93 with Rosy Wright

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/93

Andy Say - Solo - 19/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/90

ChrisJD - Solo - 26/Aug/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 15/Jun/90

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/90

andrew300169 - Lead - 1990

babymoac - 11/Sep/88 with Bob Hunter

andy gittins - 1984

stp - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/83

Howard J - 2nd - Oct/82

Hidden - Solo - 01/Jul/82

GeoffG - Lead - 09/Aug/76

rogerskews - 1974

Pete Williams
oldmanofmow - Lead - 1962

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, kim.mulji, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, John Lewis, markblair, PanzerHanzler, Caralynh, Mr Wild

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard E10 of 25
E10 of 25
easy E10 of 25
hard HVS1 of 25
HVS8 of 25
easy HVS15 of 25
hard VS1 of 25
VS0 of 25
easy VS0 of 25
hard 5a0 of 27
5a0 of 27
easy 5a0 of 27
hard 4c2 of 27
4c21 of 27
easy 4c3 of 27
hard 4b1 of 27
4b0 of 27
easy 4b0 of 27
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars15 of 28
1 Star9 of 28
0 Stars2 of 28
Bag of .....2 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 116 (12.9%)
Lead60 of 116 (51.7%)
Followed23 of 116 (19.8%)
Toproped2 of 116 (1.7%)
Alt Leads2 of 116 (1.7%)
Unknown14 of 116 (12.1%)

'Climbed'50 of 116 (43.1%)
clean O/S59 of 116 (50.9%)
clean β1 of 116 (0.9%)
clean rpt4 of 116 (3.4%)
dogged2 of 116 (1.7%)