Rockfax Description
Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up this delicately (poor protection) then step left to finish up a short flake crack. Mild at the grade but with a serious section that requires a careful approach. © Rockfax
FA. Ivan Waller 1930.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Roaches HVS Challenge , CUMC First Ascents , The V.S.+ Ticklist , The Peak: Past and Present , The Eal List , Roaches 2024 Sends
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Si dH | 5 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!) |
||||
Andrew Barker | 20 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though. |
||||
Smelly Fox | 10 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber! |
||||
Offwidth | 7 Nov, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW) |
||||
Chris the Tall | 3 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade. |
||||
Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930? |
||||
sutty | 20 Feb, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(The Five Clouds)