Rockfax Description
20m. The ever-leaning crack in the left-hand side of the gully would be a mega-classic in a more open setting. Here it is well-named, moody and magnificent. Jam the never-ending series of overhangs to the great boulder blocking the rift then make a tricky traverse left to a difficult exit where big fists sure help. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, WideBoyz Crack School.

FlavioL1989 11/Oct Lead dog
with A Stranger
RKirke 08/Aug 2nd O/S
with Dougie
Albachoss 08/Aug Lead dnf

I put up a fierce fight but was denied victory by the last moves, flippin well'ard it is!

with Ben
dswansonlow 08/Aug Lead O/S
with RKirke
James Oakes 26/May 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May Lead O/S

hard - I'd vote E3 and that's with tape gloves

with noaks
Andy Peak 1 25/Mar 2nd

What a amazing route underrated!

soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead

11/31. Feeling tired and demoralised after discovering my sandwiches had been eaten by the sheep. Fell, pulled the rope, clean next try. Tricky crux in the middle then desperate struggle to get out past the boulder (as expected). It sure has character.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S

11 on Staffordshire nose. Really good. Bit of a thrash getting out from the roof.

with Nick
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
morganator 26/May/14 2nd β
soph 26/May/14 Lead β

much easier when taped up! Grade seems right. Did all 15 Roaches brown and whillans routes in day.

gavinpeach 03/May/14 2nd dnf


morganator 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S

But Soph exited through the cave so better go back! E1!! Taping up was a really good idea.

soph 11/Apr/14 Lead dog

finished right through hole

David Sherratt ?/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Andy Peak 1 22/May/13 Lead

E2 5b is about rite! Good hard work

andi turner ??/2013 -
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
justin c 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Should be at least E3 6a if you exit out the left ! probably the best fun i have had on a route for a while! Steep sustained jamming and the finale is amazing! 3 stars and HARDER than Ramshaw crack! thats E4 ! A must for all crack fans

with Andi turner
monsteratt 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

Nievely thought three years since I last tried it might have improved my prospects. Got eaten alive again. Very hard work despite the no hands rest halfway. Unfortunately I seem to have forgotten the pain already so will probably be back

with Nick Whimster
northy1983 ?/Jul/12 2nd

bloody hard and very 3d

with andi t
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead rpt
tom.ireson 24/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Fell from first crux on first attempt then started again only to find more difficulties higher up! Awkward, difficult, strenuous, green and very hard to read. Comments about this being the hardest E1 anywhere are well justified, I was mumbling E3 after cursing and udging my way through the horrific finish. Really should have read who did the first ascent before getting on this....

with Charlotte Latter, Paul Jones
Si dH 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

Onsighted up to the top of the crack then fell off twice trying to exit leftwards under the boulder, was too exhausted for a third try and exited up through the hole instead, which is easy (and a more sensible line, but I suppose less in-keeping with the difficulty).

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
stephenhartley ??/2011 2nd
with Burns
Cragrat Rich 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Wow. Proper hard going. Probably one of the hardest E1 onsights i've managed to pull off (in same vein as The Vice). Bloody top section going left out from that boulder was reet out there at the outskirts of 'Lost it City'. Somehow (i've no idea by this point what was keeping me on) managed to stretch a foot to the salvation of ledge waaay out left and stay on to top out. Grazed elbows, bruised shoulder, worn through knees and green smeared face all in attendance!

Hidden 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
PeteH 08/May/10 Lead dog

Hardest E1 in the world. Full stop. Not helped by a handhold snapping off low down, resulting in a bit of a nasty inverting fall, but the top half of the wall is still steeeep, jams not that great, and getting out from under the capping boulder is a nightmare. Pretty cool route though.

ndp ??/2010 2nd

Its been a long time since such effort has been required. Refrained from swearing as much as I normally do in this type of situation...relentless difficulty, done many e2's/e3's easier than I found this. An enjoyable experience on second. Well led Pete.

Hidden ??/2010 -
monsteratt 03/Oct/09 Lead dog

Lead most of it with Nics gear already in place.

with Matt, Nic and Andy
Andrew Abraham 03/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Im gonna finish off this mo fo some day, as soon as ive tought my self to Jam properly!

Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
dan gibson 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jan/07 Lead dog
feilx 29/Jul/06 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 29/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/05 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ??/2004 Lead
with Andy Neath
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, callumbtaylor, mapperley samurai, leoch01, Alex Hallam, gavinpeach, Bloke on a Rope, kim.mulji, John Tanner, Dan Geh, Hidden, Hidden, Mr Wild
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set