Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Crack of Gloom** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Steps
 
Raven Rock Gully Left-hand >>
[Perfect atmosphere on Crack of Gloom..., 2 kb]20m. The ever-leaning crack in the left-hand side of the gully would be a mega-classic in a more open setting. Here it is well-named, moody and magnificent. Jam the never-ending series of overhangs to the great boulder blocking the rift then make a tricky traverse left to a difficult exit where big fists sure help. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

Photo: Perfect atmosphere on Crack of Gloom... © davidj
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 39 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

soph - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

11/31. Feeling tired and demoralised after discovering my sandwiches had been eaten by the sheep. Fell, pulled the rope, clean next try. Tricky crux in the middle then desperate struggle to get out past the boulder (as expected). It sure has character.
Nick Russell - Lead - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

11 on Staffordshire nose. Really good. Bit of a thrash getting out from the roof.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

morganator - 2nd β - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

much easier when taped up! Grade seems right. Did all 15 Roaches brown and whillans routes in day.
soph - Lead β - 26/May/14 with jon morgan

Nails.
gavinpeach - 2nd dnf - 03/May/14 with David Sherratt

But Soph exited through the cave so better go back! E1!! Taping up was a really good idea.
morganator - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Sophie Whyte

finished right through hole
soph - Lead dog - 11/Apr/14 with jon morgan

Hidden - 2014

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

E2 5b is about rite! Good hard work
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 22/May/13

andi turner - 2013

Brown - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

Should be at least E3 6a if you exit out the left ! probably the best fun i have had on a route for a while! Steep sustained jamming and the finale is amazing! 3 stars and HARDER than Ramshaw crack! thats E4 ! A must for all crack fans
justin c - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Andi turner

Nievely thought three years since I last tried it might have improved my prospects. Got eaten alive again. Very hard work despite the no hands rest halfway. Unfortunately I seem to have forgotten the pain already so will probably be back
monsteratt - Lead dog - 26/Aug/12 with Nick Whimster

bloody hard and very 3d
northy1983 - 2nd - Jul/12 with andi t

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/May/12

Fell from first crux on first attempt then started again only to find more difficulties higher up! Awkward, difficult, strenuous, green and very hard to read. Comments about this being the hardest E1 anywhere are well justified, I was mumbling E3 after cursing and udging my way through the horrific finish. Really should have read who did the first ascent before getting on this....
tom.ireson - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/11 with Charlotte Latter, Paul Jones

Onsighted up to the top of the crack then fell off twice trying to exit leftwards under the boulder, was too exhausted for a third try and exited up through the hole instead, which is easy (and a more sensible line, but I suppose less in-keeping with the difficulty).
Si dH - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2011 with Burns

Wow. Proper hard going. Probably one of the hardest E1 onsights i've managed to pull off (in same vein as The Vice). Bloody top section going left out from that boulder was reet out there at the outskirts of 'Lost it City'. Somehow (i've no idea by this point what was keeping me on) managed to stretch a foot to the salvation of ledge waaay out left and stay on to top out. Grazed elbows, bruised shoulder, worn through knees and green smeared face all in attendance!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10

Hardest E1 in the world. Full stop. Not helped by a handhold snapping off low down, resulting in a bit of a nasty inverting fall, but the top half of the wall is still steeeep, jams not that great, and getting out from under the capping boulder is a nightmare. Pretty cool route though.
PeteH - Lead dog - 08/May/10 with Noel Peatfield

Its been a long time since such effort has been required. Refrained from swearing as much as I normally do in this type of situation...relentless difficulty, done many e2's/e3's easier than I found this. An enjoyable experience on second. Well led Pete.
ndp - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Lead most of it with Nics gear already in place.
monsteratt - Lead dog - 03/Oct/09 with Matt, Nic and Andy

Im gonna finish off this mo fo some day, as soon as ive tought my self to Jam properly!
Andrew Abraham - Lead dnf - 03/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with michael porter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Jan/07

feilx - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/06 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/06 with Felix Coxwell

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Jul/05

mark s - 2005

nickdonohue - Lead - 2004 with Andy Neath

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, Bloke on a Rope, kim.mulji, John Tanner, Dan Geh, Hidden, Hidden, Mr Wild

Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard E21 of 15
E21 of 15
easy E210 of 15
hard E11 of 15
E11 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard HVS1 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c8 of 15
hard 5b1 of 15
5b6 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
3 Stars7 of 15
2 Stars7 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....1 of 15
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead22 of 39 (56.4%)
Followed11 of 39 (28.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 39 (2.6%)
Unknown5 of 39 (12.8%)

'Climbed'14 of 39 (35.9%)
clean O/S9 of 39 (23.1%)
clean β2 of 39 (5.1%)
clean rpt5 of 39 (12.8%)
dogged7 of 39 (17.9%)
dnf2 of 39 (5.1%)