Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Matinee** HVS 5b

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[The crux, 2 kb]24m. The lower crack is almost always damp and usually smelly. Ignore this fact and jam up it to a (possible) stance on the giant flake. The continuation is awkward, especially the fist-grinding belly-flop into the wider finishing section. © ROCKFAX
FA. Brown and Whillans 1951, named after the astounded 2000

Ticklists: BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List.

Photo: The crux © embers
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 139 logbooks, and on 47 wishlists.

Pure quality, old school jamming, not to slimey, sloping mantle top out keeps the interest to the end.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

soph - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

21/31. The 'beached whale' move isn't even the hardest bit.
Nick Russell - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

21 on Staffordshire nose.
Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

1st pitch to stance only
Jamie Skelton - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Nicky Brierley

Just First pitch
08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with jamie

morganator - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Sophie Whyte

Fine until the mantle and fell off this move again. Hopefully 3rd time lucky :-)
gavinpeach - Lead dog - 21/May/14 with Andy Finney

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Mike Brookes

Fine until the mantle and then struggled to commit. Off day.
gavinpeach - Lead dog - 03/May/14 with David Sherratt

soph - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Annelies Sarrazyn

top pitch, via Valkyrie p1
switch - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14 with James

Slimey!
dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Little Chris

Tophe - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Dan

first proper jamming crack. The crux was the slime at the bottom!
thevoice - 2nd β - 16/Feb/14

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Quality. Had fallen off this years ago in the snow. Drier today, although still a bit slimy in places.
Alex Winter - Lead - 24/Nov/13 with George

Actually a really good route and not just a battle like I was expecting. Found the off-width just before the half way rest the crux.
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Alex Winter

Fell from the top. So close!
Kirill - Lead dog - 14/Sep/13 with EeFu

EeFu - 2nd dog - 14/Sep/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/13

3 star fist fight wen dry.. Probably..
wolf.leeb - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with hosey

SPD224 - 2nd - 27/Jul/13 with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Mike W - Lead dog - 04/Jun/13

augustus trout - 2nd - 04/Jun/13 with Mike Whitehurst

Rested twice - once on the lower pitch and once on the top.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Nick Mitchell

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 02/May/13 with Tom Doldon

simeclimb68 - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Rob Mirfin

Hidden - 2013

fiddly
northy1983 - 2nd - Aug/12 with andi t

All in one. Very green and slimy low down, but loved it anyway. Upper bulge felt pretty grovelly as expected. V enjoyable all round!
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Jess

slimiest crack ever, shoulder deep slime crack. yummy
Jessica Taylor - 2nd dog - Jul/12

WillDoyle - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/12

What a beast of a climb! The dirt just makes it!
Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Roxy, Thomas Geh

One fall at the top-out, absolutely amazing just keeps on giving, filthy awkward jamming followed by a bellyflop rounded top-out with only thin slippery jams and no feet, a must do route.
tgeh - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12 with Roxy, dan geh

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

Spanner - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with Nick Michel

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/11

Phil PBC - AltLd - Jun/11 with henry castle

phil.cheeseman - Lead O/S - 06/May/11

pldarch - 2nd dog - 17/Apr/11 with Sam Bosanquet

sambosanquet101 - Lead - 17/Apr/11 with Peter Darch

John Mckeating - 2011

PAJames - 2011

keith leonard - 2011

jamesgodwin64 - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with chris fox

As classic as it gets.
highlux - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Pitch 1 - Kate finished up crux pitch of Valkyrie
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Great route from the great man himself, pretty traditional.
al99 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - Aug/10

retro-flash
gregoritos - Lead - 15/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/10

Brutal but brilliant. Absolutely loved this! (Led in one pitch.)
DavidR - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

Shorty83 - 2nd dnf - 02/Jul/10 with Giles

Gigga - Lead dnf - Jul/10 with Nick

LittleClimbingMaria - 28/Jun/10

truly horrific, a traditional HVS sandbag (its actually probably worth about E5...)
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

ig248 - 2nd - 01/May/10 with Kane

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09

mattcyp88 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Dave Spencer

smudger384 - 2nd - 20/Sep/09

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 10/Sep/09 with Roger Hill

datoon - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with K

Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 19/Apr/09

Led first pitch, Neil led second. Awesome. proper 'traditional' HVS. Crack was wet and full of moss - if anythign made it better, more of a challenge :)
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09

keith leonard - 2009

sgl0jd - 2009

tumbling wizard - Nov/08

Pouring with rain, found top bit quite hard.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Jessica Garland

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/08 with Gavlar, Phil

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

TCHEKE - 2008

shoulders - Lead - 08/Sep/07

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Matt Gordon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07

Only seconding but the hardest climb I ever tried. Sustained and tiring
davek - 2nd - 21/Mar/07 with Shaun L

climbingpixie - 2nd dog - 07/Feb/07 with Shaun

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Duncan I - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

jamesturnbull - 2007

Nicos - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/06 with alex at home

the best thing about this route (only good thing?) is that i never have to do it again. my left hand still hurts from when my feet slipped in the top crack and it sank deeper into the jam than i wanted it to!
Alex@home - Lead O/S - Nov/06 with nicos

nige - Lead - 25/Aug/06 with sven rowan

Climb Rox - Lead - Aug/06 with nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/06

shark - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Dan Arkle

Lawrence Eccles - Lead dog - 2006 with A. Crook

Hidden - TR rpt - Sep/05

mark s - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Jul/04

feilx - 2004

nickdonohue - Lead - 2004

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/03

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/02

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 2002 with helen gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/01

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00

Nigel Coe - Lead - 10/Jun/00 with Tim Dunsby

chrisrogers - 2nd O/S - Jun/98 with James H

Led by mitake stuck below bulge
Reds - Lead dnf - 26/May/98 with Sezer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/98

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/97

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Aug/97

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Jon Stevens

bloody hard jamming route
brady - 2nd - 1996 with John Cameron

NickJH - 2nd O/S - Mar/91 with N Hancock

Roget - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/90 with jim

P1 only...
babymoac - Lead - 16/Jul/88

Hidden - Lead - 1988

Neil R - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/86 with Sharon

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/85

Andy Stephenson - AltLd O/S - 1982

Hidden - AltLd - 1982

Didn't get round to leading pitch 2 until June 83
stp - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/81

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 23/May/76 with Bob Knapton

GeoffG - Lead - 06/Aug/75 with tony bowker

rogerskews - Lead - 1974 with Paul Barrow

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Voting
Total votes cast 98
hard E10 of 36
E11 of 36
easy E18 of 36
hard HVS21 of 36
HVS6 of 36
easy HVS0 of 36
hard VS0 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5c0 of 36
5c0 of 36
easy 5c1 of 36
hard 5b10 of 36
5b25 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
hard 5a0 of 36
5a0 of 36
easy 5a0 of 36
3 Stars21 of 26
2 Stars1 of 26
1 Star1 of 26
0 Stars2 of 26
Bag of .....1 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead67 of 139 (48.2%)
Followed35 of 139 (25.2%)
Toproped1 of 139 (0.7%)
Alt Leads13 of 139 (9.4%)
Unknown23 of 139 (16.5%)

'Climbed'61 of 139 (43.9%)
clean O/S49 of 139 (35.3%)
clean β1 of 139 (0.7%)
clean rpt5 of 139 (3.6%)
dogged18 of 139 (12.9%)
dnf5 of 139 (3.6%)