A wandering climb of great quality - the archetypical 'must-do'!
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the slabby groove to its top then traverse left to a stance on giant jammed blocks with a variety of belays.
2) 4c, 25m. Climb on to the tip of flake (a sling on it stops the rope jamming down its back) and descend its edge (scary) until a hidden foothold gives some respite. Gain a narrow crease on the left and teeter along this to access the front face of the buttress. One tricky move leads to the slabby finish. Great care is needed with the rope to avoid it jamming and to protect the second adequately. Thought by many to be HVS.
The line on the photo-topo on page 52 is slightly wrong on the upper section. You should actually traverse all the way onto the front face before climbing up, not up the short green crack as shown. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Harding 1946
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, The Peak: past and Present, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, World Graded List, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper, 3 Star Graded, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Suggested routes stripes should do..., CUMC Ticklist, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Gaz of Bath||13/Oct||Lead O/S|
|Tom Twin Jones||13/Oct||2nd||
seconded both pitches
Led both pitches.
|Rebecca North||04/Oct||2nd dog|
Seconded P1, lead P2. Wonderful route, well worth the classic status!
|Martin Bagshaw||27/Sep||AltLd rpt||
Lead first pitch
First outing to the peaks, first climb on the grit. Holy crap what a route. Down climbing to the arete and getting around that corner holding nipple size pebbles embedded in the wall (Useful crimp not available for the short!). Fantastic intro to the grit stone!
|Barrie Schofield II||20/Sep||Lead O/S|
|Curly Rich||20/Sep||AltLd rpt||
Love it great climb
GMC Andy T
Class route - the crux is unlike anything I can remember having done
Second pitch. Easy climbing for vs 4c but manages to feel quite exposed and scary for a grit route! Had a fairly major domestic due to getting hypothermic sat on the belay in the wind. Properly great route though.
|C May||01/Sep||AltLd O/S||
Tim P1, me P2
|Alessandro Tentori||31/Aug||2nd O/S||
Got over flake with much grunting and swearing, and then tried to follow ropes up the crack before the front face rather than going round straight away. Backed off and hung around before going the correct way.
Lots of rope faff!
Was a bit ambitious - sopping wet, and couldn't even finish pitch one.
|Chris Sansum||16/Aug||Lead rpt||
An old classic that never fails to please!
Rhoddri Buttrick, Lucy Matthews, vicky_cairns
Lead first pitch which was my first grit lead and super jamming with great cam placements. Second pitch was very trick for 4c or maybe I just wasn't used to the style of rock. Excellent route with oustanding positions for the grade. Glad to have got on it, but still doesn't rank with my best Scottish routes of the same grade and style.
P2 Waited ages for this - brilliant and terrifying in equal measure especially when the cam you want for the crux is being used on the belay ! Actually found P1 harder.
P2. Lives up to expectations
First pitch felt harder than the second this time around!
|Rob Rocket||03/Aug||AltLd O/S|
|Gabe Oliver||01/Aug||AltLd O/S||
P2. Every bit as good as it looks from the ground! Managed to sneak it just before the rain set in
|George Killaspy||01/Aug||AltLd O/S|
|Will Mortimer||25/Jul||AltLd O/S||
Lead P2. Was far too hungover to fully enjoy this one. Narrowly avoided embarrassment with a very risky fart on the belay ledge..
Did second pitch. Awesome fun
Tough climb for VS, Hard moves traversing down the big fin. Classic, memorable climb ***
Terrifying, as someone fell off seconding just before me and the traverse is the crux. I did hang off the gear slightly - just to survive.
I took 2nd pitch.
Led both pitches
|Dan Vaj||11/Jul||AltLd O/S|
Fantastic climb! (3rd lead with halfs ever) - loved it all. I managed to get severe rope drag (shouldn't've clipped the "top-rope" to the sling on the flake) on the balancey move around the arete - which made it more spicy. Then managed to get the "traverse" rope snaked on a flake - which gave lots of drag, so couldn't haul up gripped second, attempted to throw a haul loop (weighted with hexes) against the wind - eventually lowered second off and got the guy below to clean my last bit of gear. Crappy end to what should've been one of my best climbs to date. Oh well! :)
|Cheese Monkey||05/Jul||Lead O/S||
Bit awkward on crux but great fun
OB 1st JG 2nd
|mapperley samurai||24/Jun||AltLd rpt||
P2. Both pitches excellent. Got a bit of beta from the previous leader shouting detailed instructions to his second how to do the step across.
|James Lowe||19/Jun||AltLd O/S|
lead second pitch, just awesome
Lawrence lead P1. Lead p2, did crux then combo of fear, lack of gear, wind and rope drag made the front face impossible, so reversed the entire pitch and abbed off... Wounded pride.
Sam V, Lawrence H
multi pitch second
Lead Both pitches, First time leading the second pitch.
Lead second pitch. Found getting onto the flake quite awkward crux was easier than expected
I led first pitch, Dave second. Step traverse was straightforward, but descending the flake felt scary.
|adi bryant||30/May||AltLd rpt||
ian Wignall, Preet
Lead both pitches. Didn't find the hidden foot ledge which made 'the move' more interesting
|ian Wignall||30/May||AltLd O/S||
P1 Adi cruised it P2 Ian
|Jamie Everitt||29/May||AltLd O/S||
Finally ticked this off!
p1 Adan lead p2 Rich lead fell when traversing high line left of nose
|john lynch||10/May||Lead O/S||
Second unable to complete first pitch. Abseil descent.
1) 2nd 2) O/S lots of rope drag caused by a panic cam in the flake, definitely the hardest move I've done on 4c or VS
1) O/S 2) 2nd - partner had been wanting to do for a while so courteously let him have p2
|Justin T||?/May||AltLd O/S|
|Dafydd Llywelyn||16/Apr||AltLd rpt|
First VS I though I was going to fall off for a while!
Pitch 2. Every climber should do this route... awesome!!
|Paul Hy||13/Apr||AltLd rpt||
led the top pitch. fell off lowered off started agin from the ground
Did pitch 1 same as last time, lead over the hump and made it to the front face this time, but got battered by wind that got progressively stronger. Someone kindly lowered down and gave me a rope up as the wind was too strong to lowr a rope on its own. Will try again in milder conditions :)
P1 was fine, didn't find the hidden hold on P2 and did the airy step across pinching the pebbles. Didn't have a guidebook and so wasn't sure if I was on the correct route, got round onto the face and was smashed by the wind, should have bought more cams and so bailed, reversing the whole of the second pitch
Sam Reynolds, Matt Benson
Lead first pitch, finished the direct route by accident. Cheeky!
|James rogers86||07/Apr||Lead β||
Scary for a vs would do it again now I got the beta could do with working out my ropes better on it.
Brought Harry and Olly up it, meant tricky rope work and in the end quite a necky second for Olly, Harry smashed it considering it was his tenth climb on grit ever!
Olly Gluck, Harry
Led first pitch and crux before losing nerve after coming round onto the face and bailing (embarrassingly).
Managed to get my fist stuck in a jam on the first pitch, and had to sit on the rope so as not to break my wrist trying to get it out. Otherwise, followed fairly cleanly.
Lead both pitches, quality!
Felt P1 harder, as in requiring more technique, than P2. The P2 downclimb and bridge was easier than expected.
Wow, a tough undertaking. 2nd pitch downward traverse is amazing..
|John Higgs||19/Mar||Lead O/S||
Fantastic, airy, gritty(!), wothy of the accolades.
In the dark with headtorches. Had to wait for a party to bail off before we could start. Absolutely incredible. Will go back and lead it in the light at some stage.
Led P1, Andrei P1. Night Ascent!
Andrei Markin, Joe Jones
1st pitch in wet. Very memorable climb!
Maria Swan, Alasdair Dickinson
|K Dawg||06/Dec/14||AltLd O/S||
Led P1, Michelle led P2
In the morning sun. Led P1. Enjoyed down-climbing the flake - at one point seemed nearly impossible to move across until you drop your foot down to the hidden hold and then suddenly becomes nice and straight forward...
Peter lead P1, which was mostly dry, although some smears felt a bit committing. I then set off on P2. Immediately the flake looked harder than I expected, but I moved up and over and (very) slowly talked myself back down it on the other side. At the bottom, I was struggling to find the hidden foothold, but some shouts from the assembling crowds helped me find it. I then proceeded to not make the step across for a fair amount of time, maybe 15 minutes. After discussing retreat with Peter for a bit, and trying it in a couple of different ways repeatedly, I finally talked myself into committing and stepped across. Stepping round onto the front face, the wind picked up very strongly but the rest was easy. Or should have been had I not (despite trying hard to avoid it) introduced hideous rope drag. In the end not the prettiest ascent, but I got there in the end.
Only did it because we got there and nobody was on it, best warm up ever :)
Me P1, clean. Phil did P2 I needed rests (or rather looks from another angle)
|Rob Laird||27/Sep/14||AltLd rpt|
|Martin Bagshaw||27/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead 2nd pitch
led both pitches, then repeated with alt leads with gav, as gear left on route, and gav also wanted to do but needed partner. Great fun both times, every bit as good as the hype, worth the trip and the midges! still smiling now.
Led first pitch. Led first part of 2nd pitch but was unable to step across from the flake to the ledge. Retreated back to belay and seconded.
did 2nd pitch, re-clipped stevie's gear on the flake, rope drag was a bitch
Jack Holguin, Chris Shepherd
Found this very hard today, pulled on gear on P1 and the rope on P2....... Sorry everyone :0((
Rather tricky for VS but obviously a brilliant route. Followed the hundreds of others who didn't go direct up the jamming crack and skirted a little to the side ;)
|David Stevens||03/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
Simon P1 Jake P2
|Becky E||31/Aug/14||Lead rpt||
Led the 2nd pitch - woo hoo! A nemesis defeated. Fantastic. The first pitch is no doddle either.
Did first pitch OK, but Alex took a fall on the second pitch so we ended up aborting the attempt :-(
Lead both pitches and thoroughly enjoyed it in hindsight (once safely at the top of P2). Crux for me was getting off the bottom of the flake. Didn't seem to find the hidden foothold so transitioned from a leg jam to an incredibly exposed balance - very bold climbing.
|Mark Duncan||14/Aug/14||AltLd β||
Jon led first, me second. Needed beta on move off flake onto undercut from helpful passer by. All about the hidden right foothold, which made the move much easier. One of the most incredible climbs I have done, straight forward climb, but wonderfully bold. Superb.
|Angus Taylor||14/Aug/14||AltLd β||
2nd pitch 1 lead pitch 2
I led the first pitch and Mark led the second pitch.
|Leo Choi||09/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
lead first pitch
Lead first pitch
2nd pitch only, went up pebbledash instead of the first pitch.
|Rosie Henstock||07/Aug/14||2nd rpt||
2nd Pitch only after starting up Pebbledash
|Alex Hallam||03/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
Bantasuraus Rex reared his ugly head in the form of 'someone' (Chris Mulcahy) climbing through the sling to cause all kinds of tangle. Dawes and his guided band of giggling miscreants made this a route to remember. Hope one of the guys dads sends us the photos because I had no idea what was going on from the belay. Hurricane force winds.
Ben Freeman, Chris mulcahy
Lead 1st pitch
Led second pitch. Ace route, took ages to figure out the moves in a really exposed position!
scary to second the last pitch!
Led p.2. Classic!
I would say we were a bit under prepared, had massive rope drag which made things difficult. Really exhilarating leaving the belay point and downclimbing
Just 2nd Pitch
|Tala M||26/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
The face around the top of the second pitch was my crux, being short meant I couldn't reach a ledge. Still great climb, though I think my belayer started to get bored!
|Paul Hy||23/Jun/14||AltLd rpt|
Lead the second pitch. Found the first pitch harder than the second. Top pitch is pretty easy just a bit scaery. Amazing route
Absolute epic! Felt very tough for a VS, convinced HVS is more appropriate grade, if grading for the onsight. Once you know where the hidden foothold is at the bottom of the flake (P2), and how to step over away from the flake (crux), it's actually very enjoyable! Brother did P2 and did a good job of setting the ropes to protect my seconding - would have been even hairier without!! Great adventure but balls of steel required at the grade :)
|Andy S||23/Jun/14||AltLd dog||
Didn't read the description, so was unaware of the hidden foothold - ended up taking a rest on gear!! Oh the shame!
lead second pitch. Very unique and strange and doesn't feel easy.
|jack 9895||21/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
lead the second pitch it was the perfect amount of scary
Lead 'the pitch'. Amazing climb! Struggled a lot descending the flake finding it very hard and climbing very badly! Step across was lovely though!
Led P1 in the wet, Dan led P2.
Seconded first pitch then lead pitch 2! Loved it...
Stephen Blackman, Jordon Fleming
I took first pitch, Trevor did top one. The step across crux move became a lot easier once I found the undercling! Fabulous route.
|Ed morris||18/May/14||AltLd O/S||
Crux pitch. Too hot.
I led P1, Bird P2. Some epic fails with the ropework on P2 made it quite an adventure.
lead second pitch
sam d, Jenny Monkey
|Jenny Monkey||21/Apr/14||2nd O/S||
sam dunbar, Luke Mansfield
Sketchy but my favourite climb to date! Who said we need twin ropes haha
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||16/Apr/14||AltLd rpt||
I led pitch 1, Paul did Pitch 2. Not done it for over 10 years and loved it.
Paul Deane, Chris Murray
|David Kay||13/Apr/14||AltLd rpt|
|augustus trout||09/Apr/14||AltLd O/S||
|Nick Russell||01/Apr/14||AltLd rpt||
Gets better each time
Somewhat scary, one for me to return to and Lead once I get some more experience. Done in a single pitch.
lead pitch 1 and most of pitch 2 before setting up 2nd belay at block on slabby front of buttress due to rope drag, partner lead through as getting dark
|Calum Wadsworth||29/Mar/14||Lead rpt||
P1 was green and very slimey
Led 2nd pitch
|Tom McCabe||16/Mar/14||AltLd dnf||
I lead first pitch to ledge, cause Andrei wanted to do the route... got scared on the move down the flake and returned to the ledge... considered leading out right but abbed off. First dnf :/
Rob Mora, Andrei Markin
Pebble pulling on the traverse!!! Finished round the front face. Brilliant fun.
Awesome climb. My partner let me lead both pitches because I was so excited. Mega-classic.
I did p1, Ali p2. P2 exposed, with a tricky downclimb move.
P1 done, hand hurt by a flying hex, then surprised by rain and darkness, abseil impossible due to rope jam on P2, and eventually MRT'd
|James S||01/Dec/13||AltLd O/S||
Great position at the second pitch for the grade!
|the power||10/Nov/13||AltLd rpt|
|Paul Hy||10/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
Finally got it done today. did P2.
Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather
Backed off after ramp. Very hard and scary for grade. Need to try again when I;m in better shape!
Ranveig Berg, Seth Redmond
lead 2nd pitch, nice one, heavy wind at the belay on top of the crag
I lead pitch 1. It was as crap as I'd remembered!
Lead pitch 1 took falloff the flake on pitch 2
Very tough...and very weird. First pitch felt technically hard. Second pitch: flake downclimb tiring. Left traverse commiting. Climbing route to top was confusing to figure out and poorly protected. Loads of rope drag. Poor belay at top, cannot see seconder (or hear due to wind). Set up a hanging belay off the top instead so could see seconder. Exciting and different but too dodgy for three stars.
lead both pitches (ill advised belay in gully rather than next to "the flake"), climbed 2nd on one half only so the second could be used to protect Ellen on the traverse. hated the 2nd pitch, my exact words: "I'd rather be thrown in a pit full of honey badgers than do that climb again." certainly felt like HVS to me, and I'm never doing it again. ever.
Lead P2, Felix lead P1. Twin ropes protect second on traverse. Only placed 3 runners on one rope and felt safe.
Scared the pants off me and I was only seconding. The moves down the flake felt very strenuous and moving out onto the aręte was very thin. Was I missing something? Felt HVS to me.
A bit of a battle. Not a great warm up route.
didn't know about the hidden foothold, felt quite tricky/scary!
One for the head
|mat cooper||22/Sep/13||AltLd O/S|
Lead 2nd pitch
|luke glaister||08/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
What a great route. Sec time on grit and just gripped are balls and went for it. Amazing . ***S
|casey johns||08/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
2nd pitch great route
Andrew willie wilson, luke glaister
|Curly Rich||07/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
lead p2 went better than expected.
|Andre Clarke||04/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
lead first & Tom 2nd. Top routes
Me P1, Dan P2
|Bill Lawrence||31/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
led the second pitch, amazing climbing, but im not afraid to say i was twitching a bit!
rob cooper, andy lawrence
Seconded first pitch, leader (Tom) bailed the crux. Absailed off, Vicky's first ever ab.
Great climb!! Led pitch 1 then Gav led pitch 2. Struggled on the crux, didn't get my weight over from my right leg to my left leg correctly to start with when trying to step over..... Once I got that right it was ok!
Lead the second pitch this time!
|Andrew Lodge||12/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
Steve led P1 and the I lead P2, took ages to get down the flake but then found the step across quite easy. Fantastic climb and certainly one of the best at VS
Andrew Lodge, Steve Barby
A wandering climb of great quality
|Stickle Tarn||09/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Lead the first easy pitch next time I'll do the traverse
|Calum Wadsworth||27/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
Chris, Harrogate club
P1 - Lee P2 - Me
Jamie led first pitch- to flake belay, I lead second pitch
|jamie ward||26/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
|mapperley samurai||22/Jul/13||AltLd dog||
Lead the second pitch. Managed to miss the hidden lower foothold and fell straight out of the bottom of the flake. Nice fall. Hard work getting back on the route. Great fun. Required better rope work. Sticking horribly on the final ascent.
the move out left on the arete is terrifying, and the jamming version of the move afterwards is green and scary. I just couldn't get anything for my hands on the traverse, making this one of the scariest climbs I've ever tried. Given the above, it was wonderful - I've perhaps never felt so relieved for having finished a climb.
|Mike Turner||20/Jul/13||AltLd rpt||
Led pitch 1
Definitely one of the best climbs i have done.
|Nick Russell||05/Jul/13||Lead rpt||
Led both pitches, while Dave and Rob operated the cameras
Really nice! a little greasy on the first pitch and fantastic down climb of the flake on pitch 2. lead pitch 2
Awesome !! A little green from overnight rain made it even more spicy.
|angry pirate||26/Jun/13||2nd O/S||
Arrived late so tagged onto end of the rope. Been on hit list to lead for a while to gutted to have seconded (thirded?) both pitches. Layback on first pitch felt very strenuous and descending the flak on pitch two was the thrutchiest climbing I've done in a while! Really enjoyed the airy step and the romp up the nose. A great day out!
|Jules Lane||25/Jun/13||AltLd O/S||
Led P2. Was not liking the step of death until I located the side pull and then sorted my feet out and had a word with myself. In the end, no problem at all. Downwards traverse pretty bizarre, but great to do such a classic.
Tossed a coin and got the second pitch. Hard VS. Incredible. Enough said.
I lead the first pitch
James led first pitch I led second - got to end of traverse which wasn't too bad then fell trying to go up crack that wasn't the route! Had to set up belay and James led last slab. Next time!
Incredible. I led an extended pitch 2(as tom belayed in the gully). A brilliant pitch, and really full on at the grade.
Glory pitch in a cracking sunset. Found the step onto the hidden hold harder than the stride across to the foot-rail.
Led the first pitch which was great. Hass led the second but I had to lower off to catch my train (which I missed!)
Led the second pitch, which certainly lives up to its well earned reputation. The climb down the flake and traverse make for an exhilarating route.
|Big Lee||01/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
An amazing climb. Found the down-climb from the flake easy enough but the moves left along the undercut wall needed a few attempts to gain my composure. Finished the route at 9pm.
|sara n||06/May/13||AltLd rpt|
|Caspian Johnson||05/May/13||AltLd O/S||
A good lesson in rope work...
Horrible climb! Lead first pitch, shat my pants seconding the last pitch. The whole thing is less about the moves/climbing and more about the protection and rope management. Couldn't enjoy it, came all the way from Newcastle to do this and the sloth, the sloth felt easier and less exposed! Bag of... What a waste of a beautiful evening!
Lead both pitches. First pitch not too bad... but the exposure on the 2nd pitch made climbing down the flake very scary! (hidden foot ledge is pretty obvious). Great way to finish my first grit trip!
Excellent end to the day. Nice sunset
|ross brinson||26/Apr/13||Lead rpt||
Lead 2nd pitch, found down climbing the flake hard/scary and the step absolutely fine. Getting the rope stuck was the crux.
led 2nd pitch crux is definitely down climbing the flake
|Daniel Heath||20/Apr/13||Solo β||
What a great route, the crux move was fun and it was thrilling even after it.
led P1, found it pretty simple although the step across was a lot scarier than i remembered
|Jake Young||20/Apr/13||Lead O/S|
Led second pitch. The step from the flake was difficult (stood there for a while) until I found the undercling - using this it was no problem.
Took a while to get on this and had a great adventure. 40 km winds at the top made things pretty sketchy!
Neil Shephard, Neil, Ben
|Alex Munnery||06/Apr/13||Lead β|
|the power||29/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
lead 2nd pitch
|Bloke on a Rope||25/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitch 1, would like to go back and lead pitch 2 with that funky crux sequence!
|scotty h||04/Mar/13||2nd RP||
moving down the flake was harder, the step across was actually alright.
Pretty groovy climb
|jack adams||?/Mar/13||Lead O/S|
lead both pitches, good crafty placement of nut above the flake reduced the rope drag massively
|Morgan P||24/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Feels unfair to call this clean. Had a minor(ish) epic after the traverse when the rope drag was too much to go around the corner and the cam I needed to make a belay on the corner was the thing causing the rope drag on the flake... Fun times. Eventually muscled myself up the crack just before the corner and got to the top. Like half an hour later.
|Matt Smith||17/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Can see why its so highly regarded, the exposure of second pitch is great. Used a pebble pinch on the crux instead of undercling and was very glad of hidden foot ledge. Lead both pitches.
Awesome climb. Seconded both pitches.
In the dark with a headtorch, the crux is the ropework!
Backed off leading pitch 2
|Andrew will wilson||??/2013||-|
|Andrew will wilson||??/2013||-|
Fantastic climb! Felt pretty bold on the down-climb to the traverse. Moving out and using the undercutting hand holds on the traverse was definitely the crux. Far harder (and bolder) than the sloth in my opinion... Although now I know the route I think it would be a piece of cake.
Pretty exciting, great exposure.
|Sam Cooke||27/Oct/12||AltLd O/S||
Lead second pitch - a pretty special climb.
|John Holden||14/Oct/12||2nd rpt||
Well done Mike.
I lead first pitch, Rich lead the second. Amazing, good job rich!
|Dr Toph||06/Oct/12||Solo O/S||
Just seemed a bit meandering to be such a mega-classic IMHO. The one move at the end of the flake was fun enough though.
Watched another pair complete the crux after a struggle whilst waiting to start the route. Due to this knew where the hidden foothold was, so found it a fun climb, not as scary as thought after epic last time years before where backed off due to weather.
|crazy pierre||23/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Both pitches. Need to learn jamming and ropework. Managed clean nonetheless.
Lead second pitch. Had the shit put up me by the pair who went before us but it was OK
Cracking route, and the boldness and awkward moves at the start of the second pitch make for an exciting traverse. The 'hidden' foothold is most welcome!
Led first pitch, Chris did the flake pitch
Lead second pitch. Very pleasant climb! Harder if you don't find the hidden foothold on the 2nd pitch though!
Rob H, Tim R
Led in one long pitch, 5 bits of gear but still had rope drag. I soloed this about 3 years ago (most harrowing climb I've done) and was much more pleasant with a rope :)
|Andy Peak 1||14/Sep/12||2nd||
Lead second pitch by headlight. took a moment moving out from belay then quite move, well once I'd spotted the traverse foot holds with my head torch. good scary fun.
|auld al||03/Sep/12||Lead O/S|
|Becky H||01/Sep/12||2nd O/S||
took a stupid slip near the start due to being asleep and damp green slime ... thanks to George for awesome belaying so did not deck!
I led p2 - brilliant but pretty scary on the crux move! Forgot to look for the hidden foothold. A rather slow ascent.
|Charley Carpenter||?/Sep/12||Lead O/S|
One tricky step moving across to nose after flake
Epic climb - scary decending down on second, with a beautiful view for finish
|The Big Sender||10/Aug/12||AltLd O/S|
Led 2nd pitch
First climb of this grit trip. At times terrifying, I felt genuinely as though I might fall coming down the flake, had not seen the description of a hidden foothold but found one anyway, then I had to work out the body position to be able to step across. I then couldn't remember whether the climb went up the crack or the face; after much backward and forwarding I committed to the face with the size of the fall and swing firmly in my head. Brilliant adventure.
|Alex Thompson||28/Jul/12||2nd rpt||
Hardon's first lead at The Roaches. Worth it to watch his face coming off the flake!
James Williamson, Haydn Martin
Started leading P2. Traverse was fine but got around the corner and the slab was soaking wet, with a pool of water on the ledge. Reversed the traverse and escaped through the gully.
jim did p1 leaving me with p2 and him with the daunting traverse on second!did the climb properly by continuing round onto the face after the down climb to get the full effect!awesome!
Lead second pitch, got scared....moves are easy
|Rachel Slater||27/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
Harder than it looks but still VS. Lead pitch 1.
Led pitch 1
|Charlie Zephyr Booth||22/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
Backed off after first pitch and attempting to cross the flake!
lead P1 as have done p2 before, give the 2nd the exiting pitch.
Was raining on the face side of the climb, waited for it to dry whilst complaining adequately.
|climb the peak||08/Jul/12||AltLd O/S|
Put off by the slimy corner at the start of P1, followed Rich up.
Slime on P1 and not too elegant on P2
Completed as part of Ride of the Valkyries. Led both pitches as my partner broke. Cycled Manchester-Froggatt-Roaches and did valkyrie at Froggatt too. Took 16 hours and finished just before midnight! Amazing climb! Struggled with the last bit after the traverse.
Managed not to avoid the undercut this time!
|Jay C||12/Jun/12||AltLd rpt||
Midnight ascent by the light of a headtorch and finished with a beer on top. Brilliant!
Finished this at midnight! Somewhat eerie.
Escaped after 1st pitch because of midges!
A fantastic little adventure. Pretty much had to swim up the first pitch. Took a little tumble when the slimy footholds decided to no longer allow me to stand on them. Second pitch was bone dry however, and amazing fun. Rope drag was a severe problem though.
Al Dixon, Glen Du Jardin
Led P1, left the glory to Paul. Great route, awesome exposure
Led P2. Loved/hated the delicate step out, had me in nervous stitches
Do P1 so Dan could lead P2. Sweaty and awesome.
Its still a lovely climb
I led first pitch B climbed 2nd pitch well but the extra large sling that formed a prussic,the stuck friend, and being too short all made my climb not so good!
|David Shelmerdine||22/May/12||Lead O/S|
Fine first pitch but abbed off from the stance due to change in conditions.
James led the first pitch, I got past the crux onto the face then hit a brick wall. TR lowered for final section. HVS due to the exposure and lack of gear on the face IMO
Won the toss for 2nd pitch.
|HAJ Francis||05/May/12||Lead O/S||
started hailing on us at the belay pint at end of p1 but still great route.
|The Dangler||03/May/12||2nd β|
mickey seule, jules mckim
|Patrick Hill||?/May/12||AltLd O/S||
|David Kay||24/Apr/12||AltLd rpt||
P1 this time. Bridging works really well
|Laurence Cowton||15/Apr/12||AltLd O/S||
Lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch quite spicy until I found the 'secret' jug. Great route.
Fell, swung avoiding crux
|George Nichols||14/Apr/12||Lead β||
Was completely flummoxed by the start of the second pitch, until a helpful passer-by pointed out the hidden foot. A delightful romp.
|andrew sandercock||01/Apr/12||AltLd O/S||
Rob p1, me p2. Found "the move" hard. Scared. Bloody scared.
|Matt Cooke||31/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
Will P1, me P2. Stupendous! Found the awkward move past the bulge on the first pitch to be the hardest single move, but the excitement on the traverse and the first move on the face, in an amazing position, makes the second pitch an absolute VS classic.
Lead 1st pitch, seconded 2nd pitch in the dark.
lead both pitches, strange moves
|alias dave||17/Mar/12||AltLd O/S|
|Sam Simpson||17/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
Nice climb... made hard work of "the move"
Lead pitch 2
|Andy Moles||14/Mar/12||AltLd O/S|
|Jay C||03/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
I lead the second pitch, amazing route worthy of the three stars!
led 1st pitch
|Dafydd Llywelyn||26/Feb/12||AltLd rpt||
Three men and one belay plate. Fun. Top effort by Tom as his first experience outdoors on rock!
Tom Milburn, Sion McGuinnes
|Jonny Raines||19/Feb/12||2nd β||
Most ridiculous rope system ever used, excellent climb though.
|Ed Booth||02/Feb/12||AltLd O/S||
Attempted first pitch and then backed off because I didn't think of bridging the awkward bit. :-/
Hamish led the first pitch and then we backed off the second as it was getting really windy and unpleasant.
Lead first pitch no problems, backed off second pitch due to extreme and changing winds. Want to go and complete whole route. But lovely first pitch.
finished on pebbledash, too slimy
Led both pitches. By the time we made it to the top of the first pitch the light had gone and the wind and rain was coming in hard. I kept moving down the flake by the light of my headtorch to find 'the secret foothold below the roof'. I ended up hanging by my arms with my feet swinging in the dark abyss. It was at this point I knew I had gone too far down the flake. Unbelievably I managed to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, whilst attempting to extricate myself. All in all an emotional ride.
Lead 1st pitch, 2nd pitch is awesome!
Met AB Black.
Bloody tough first pitch!
THE single most scary thing I've ever done, with or with out a rope! first pitch is nothing compared to the down climb on the seccond pitch
|Nick Russell||27/Nov/11||Lead O/S||
Almost got blown off in gale force winds! Sunny and dry though. The second can be protected on the traverse by dropping a rope down from the top belay
Tried to jam the offwidth seconding p2 - bad idea in damp conditions! Good lead Mr Walker
Peff 1st pitch. Another obscure grit grade.....went round left arete to finish, no gear for move off the ledge. Great route.
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||06/Nov/11||AltLd||
I led P1. For P2, must remember next time to put the rope that will ultimately be protecting the second behind the flake to protect the leader as they descend to the step across. Both belays were in superb positions in the November sun.
Steve Waters, Mynydd
1st pitch this time. Amazing. Rope problems again
Ballsy step out 2nd pitch
Has been on my wish list since i started climbing and so glad to get it ticked off! Just one slight problem, started on the jamming of the first pitch and after an hour we both decided we couldn't jam very well. So we backed off and did pebble dash then traversed further round into a belay then Pete traversed into the first belay of Valkyrie and we continued onward from there. Cool position moving round the spike and onto the arete, made a second belay on the corner as we only had a single rope, the drag would've been insane! Cool link up!
Charlotte did an awesome job on this!
I lead P2.
|Tom Redmond||04/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
head went to peices before the traverse across from the flake, but once i had done it found it easy. a good route
Lead.Andy Moncrief sec Derek Carter.It felt good to do this brilliant route at 68 after using up most of my reserves on the Sloth.I found the first pitch tricky,but the crux moves on the second pitch were a delight once you get your feet sorted.Superb position traversing the nose where I had to untie one of my ropes on second.A great lead by Andy who is no young tiger.Well worth the trip from Bristol.
|John Lewis||25/Sep/11||AltLd O/S||
Wet thrutchfest up and down a greasy crack. Found very hard, not technically, just mentally on greasy bulges. First time on grit need to get used to it. Would like to repeat in better style
Should do again after warming up first. Mentally unprepared so didn't enjoy it as much as I should have.
|Dan Geh||22/Sep/11||2nd rpt|
adam jordan, dan geh
|Rob Laird||11/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
|Curly Rich||11/Sep/11||2nd dnf||
rain stopped play.
Needed very tight rope in places. Way out of my league at the moment!
Glad I didn't do the second pitch - pretty exposed!
P1 - me, clean o/s, P2 - Tim; dogged, wet after shower, off route, as lead moved ropes to avoid drag. Miserable.
second ever time seconding!
|victim of mathematics||13/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
Led P1. A bit damp. Brilliant climbing on the second pitch.
Second pitch !
|Stoney Boy||07/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
|Bumblebee Biggs||03/Aug/11||2nd O/S|
|Martin Davies||02/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
Lead second pitch. 1st = fine, 2nd = pretty airy and bold, very awkward move stepping down and left. Good route but top pitch is not VS imo.
Liked it but hated it. I lead the second bit from the big flake.
seconded first pitch, lead second
Well chuffed to have lead it, Ade lead first pitch and me the second, thrilling stuff.
|Johnny B Diggerman||25/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
I led first pitch, RH side of slabby grove is grubby so I climbed up the corner. Belay stance is good. A big sling is a must over the flake. Dan led the second pitch great lead, the exposure is brilliant. Great climb though not as bad as it's reputation.
|martin c||15/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Damian 1st pitch, me 2nd. Have wanted to do this since my first ever day climbing outside, didn't disappoint!!
2nd pitch in the rain!
1st attempt got to the belay and it started raining, so bailed up the corner. 2nd try no rain. Double ropes are needed to protect the 2nd.
only climbed the first pitch and climbed out the cave.
|Onion magnet||02/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
Horrible and quite hard on the down climb traverse would never give this route a top 50 ranking let alone 3 stars. 1 star maybe
Not really good or bad, P1 is awful and pitch 2 is just weird.
did Valkyrie as a warm up before the sloth, wish i did not, forgot how demanding this route is for a VS
Jennifer Randall, Cat
Lead first pitch, seconded the second which was no walk in the park
Led second pitch. An absolute 3 start stunner......but watch the rope drag !
Sandra & Pascal
Led pitch 1, Phil led pitch 2. Lovely moves in the middle, start and finish are fairly average though.
amazing. has been on the list forever, and didn't disappoint!
led 2nd pitch. hard for VS but a great route.
|Alistair Corbett||11/Jun/11||AltLd O/S||
HARD but so many different skils required to climb makes it well worth the effort. crack climbing, balence, fingery, crimpy, undercuts, smear, bold, jugs and ROPE DRAG (which was my own fault lol)
im having valkyrie next time!!
john frost, floss_81
p1 for stephen, p2 for me. Janey got the short straw and had to second both. Lovely climb.
An experience worthy of the reputation. Got on it first thing, finished at 9.15 a.m. Descending the flake was a lot harder than I had thought it would be, the step across in contrast felt quite straight forward. After turning the corner rope jam came into effect making the first move up feel very tenuous. A howling gale tried to blow me off the top making communication with Dan impossible and I didn't give him enough slack for to descend the flake.
T. Frost, N. Howett
Excellent route. Just gutted I didn't get photos; but thanks to the girl who drew the picture! Epic route! Brilliant!
|The Norris||04/Jun/11||2nd dog||
Amazing route, with a bit of everything thrown at you! Disco leg and my poor jamming technique made the descent at the start of the second pitch a nightmare!
Isabel pitch 1, Kevin 2
|craig naylor||02/Jun/11||AltLd O/S|
Got lost, tried going up the crack on the nose before going all the way around it. fell off trying
|Lawrence Bird||27/May/11||AltLd O/S|
Lead P2, Graham Lead P1. Crackin' climb! Loads of fun stepping out onto the nose from the flake, a good head game. Cheers Lads.
great fun esp if you don't give the leader any beta, the look on his face, priceless.
Did the first pitch of matinee. Still amazing :)
|The Ivanator||30/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
I led P1, puzzling moves off the flake, but worked it out in the end.
Lead pitch one and two clean, awesome route, loved the exposure!
A great end to the Roaches section of the trip.
Great route. Lead p2. Bit awkward downclimbing flake but fine when you get the hidden foothold on the right.
P1-Bob-suprisingly clean and pleasant pitch. P2- Tom- eventually located the 'hidden' foothold, straightforward after.Good rope work made for a relaxing second! Previously lead in 1993
Second time lucky. Halves are a must as rope drag can stop you in your tracks on the second pitch otherwise. This was my mistake the first time around.
|Dave Mason||23/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
|Double Knee Bar||22/Apr/11||Lead rpt||
Finally done it! seconded it after two months of climbing and fell twice. not touched it after two years and got the lead clean.
|Peter Holder||21/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
Led the first pitch this time and sat in the sun whilst ally put the second one together :)
|NB Pixel||18/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
First route of the day- started up first pitch, messed around under roof for ages, came back down and JT led 1st pitch. Set off down stupendous 2nd pitch, fantastic until around corner, but backed off move up(eventually had to do something sketchy and dynamic on 2nd), reversed & tried cracks, reversed these two on o.k. jams, belayed, & JT finished off lead. Poor boy. Luckily despite glorious weather there was no queue!
led second pitch
|Dan Geh||10/Apr/11||AltLd O/S|
|sara n||09/Apr/11||AltLd O/S|
|Stuart Hurworth||07/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
Lead first pitch. Awkward bulge passed on right as I looked for gear there, though left looked easier! Second pitch looks thrilling from the belay and was scary in reality. Very delicate move across onto the crease while holding onto a tiny pebble. Felt relief getting around onto the front! Thought Via Dolorosa was much more fun!
Thom's birthday present :)
Thom Allen, CoffeePot
Thom Allen, jelaby
Its all in the traverse...
climbed with geoff and jt, It rained, fell after the flake messy climb
|Ollie B||19/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
lead first pitch, second second pitch
|Graham Westbrook||19/Mar/11||AltLd O/S|
Alistair Everett, George Stevens
Lead first pitch, struggled on second but was successful. Reached top just as sun was disappearing.
Did 2nd pitch. Much talked about crux move made having the beta unavoidable. Consequently the move across took a lot less than 40mins. Still felt airy though.
|Dafydd Llywelyn||13/Mar/11||AltLd dog||
Had a fall trying to get the hidden foothold, wasn't too bad afterwards despite being scared stiff and in the dying light!
I got the first pitch, tricky moves, green and slightly damp. Seconded the crux pitch in very dim light, exposed and scary but an incredible route.
|David Kay||12/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
Tom took the first pitch, I did the second. Superb climbing and great exposure. I didn't realise how far around the arete you have to traverse before good holds appear, so I ended up trying the jamming crack instead which was nails. Managed to reverse (phew) and went up around the arete again. Next day had to ab off to retrieve gear in the crack which Tom couldn't reach.
|Jonas Paulsson||08/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
Led 2nd pitch. Sweet classic!
Lead first pitch
awesome day in the sun. hard for VS i thought but can see where the grade is justified... the step across was a bitch !
Second pitch. Knew what was coming after fantasising over pictures but still great. Got a bit lost around the corner.
|Andy Myers||?/Feb/11||AltLd O/S|
First trad lead, not as scary as i thought. Need to practice getting nuts in cleanly.
|Phil Layton||22/Jan/11||AltLd O/S||
Lead first pitch, no probs but slightly worrying traverse to flake, above dodgy cam placement. Second pitch - didn't fancy it much after James struggled, but went for it and found the climb-down off the flake good fun, and nailed the step left - then found myself on v.tiny ledge with 10 ft of slack, trying to flick rope over the arete to finish. Glad I wasn't trying to lead that pitch - was at my limit.
Always do this route first when I go to theroaches, top route crux is 5a if you miss the foothold
|The Green Giant||20/Jan/11||AltLd O/S||
P1 seconding P2 is just as scary as leading it unless your leader gets the ropes in the right position.
Dan with the van
|chris fox||??/2011||AltLd O/S|
|chris fox||??/2011||AltLd O/S|
|Chris Sansum||12/Dec/10||AltLd rpt||
Always an absolute classic, even when the start and finish are green and damp! Chris P1, Phil P2. Went up the direct crack on P1 which I hadn't done before. My Rockfax book shows line going round to the right, when in fact I think the crack is probably the correct line (as shown in the BMC guidebook). Rockfax also shows the wrong line after the traverse on P2 (they may have corrected this in the newer edition). Will buy the BMC book instead next time! Where is the four stars button?
|Sophie Nunn||31/Oct/10||AltLd O/S||
lead second pitch
good climb, scary stuff stepping off the flake to the undercut!
2nd pitch. Class move left from the flake!
lead first pitch
|Steven Andrews||16/Oct/10||AltLd O/S||
Lead second pitch after coming off at the crux. Bloomin classic route. Interesting finding the step at the bottom of the flake to support you and a committed step over, quite balancy. Recommended.
|John Lewis||10/Oct/10||Lead dnf||
Bailed after decending the second flake, could not see the move.
|Rick Ashton||09/Oct/10||AltLd O/S||
I lead 2nd pitch, very nice step down off the flake made a whole lot worse by very strong winds and hurrendous rope drag
|Leo Woodhead||26/Sep/10||AltLd O/S||
Led second pitch, coming down the flake and making the delicate step over felt hard!!! Great route, well worth it's stars!
Led 1st pitch
|Oliver Branagan||25/Sep/10||AltLd O/S||
Lead pt2. Didn't drop down low enough, which resulted in a gripping foot-pebble/crimping traverse - was gripped. Unlike any other VS I have ever done. Shame about the Diff around the corner to finish (didn't really know where I was meant to go - thought it went closer to the arete.)
i took the first pitch and ran it from about half height
lead 2nd pitch, really nice climb, exposed and delicate.. top out has interesting features for belay..
|Chi Cheng||16/Sep/10||AltLd O/S||
Led the 2nd pitch. One committing move. Thought about backing off.
Lead second pitch.
Found down-climbing the crack the hardest and scarest part.
Fourth time on the route. Why is descending the flake still scary?
Lead first pitch
Lead the first pitch. One good move, bit polished though. Clair lead the important pitch and had a whole world of fun!
|Storm Hunter||22/Aug/10||Lead dnf||
got all the way along the traverss, but could not drag the rope round on to the slab to finnish. Was not going to Belay or lower off two cams so peat eventiualy managed to get a roap down from the top. Not an easy place to belay at the top either. then managed to abb down for gear, bit of a epic leading to a well jammed sling left on the flake. Long day, but cool route. leave yourself a lot of time for this one.
Led both pitches
|Mark Salter||16/Aug/10||Lead β||
Lead 1st pitch
Helen led the first pitch which seemed a bit harder that 4b. Possibly due to lack of friction as it was v.hot. I led pitch 2 and got very gripped by the exposure moving across the traverse. Move to get established on the slab was big stretch for me. Tricky ropework. Brilliant route.
Did 2nd pitch after hard days bouldering. Quite a journey. HVS I reckon but superb whatever the grade. Would of felt easier with more skin.
Polished. Led second pitch. really wierd move.
Me first, Dan second. Exposed to the max.
|Audrey @ The Castle||18/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
did in one pitch
Rach and James led, I went along for the ride.
|irish paul||10/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
P2-me, P1-James, Rach got the joys of seconding all of it! Good value, suffered a bit from rope drag on the final ascent of the face, work that out better next time.
|Mike Turner||09/Jul/10||AltLd O/S||
Led pitch 2
led 1st pitch
lead P2, very exposed and rope drag an issue.
I don’t get it - probably one of the least pleasant climbs I've had the misfortune to find myself on!
first and only grit trad climb. was very easy but fookin scary. ran out of gear for the belay, struggled to fit anything in the gutters at top
more scary than the sloth
Fantastic climb. Led P2
John P1, Me P2. Did traverse without problem, but struggled going up front trying to make sure rope did not get cought under lip in arete. Had previously led P1 with Danny in 2008.
led 1st pitch fine. Bryan led 2nd pitch cleanly & smoothly; I didnt, scary.
|wrapped in bacon||15/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Down climb def the harder part of the route. Stepping across went very smoothly
Led P2. Whoa. Took absolutely ages getting off the top of the flake and slithering down, half in the crack.
Jools lead first pitch (struggled a little) I lead second pitch. Down climb was scary but fine. Had a mare on the step across. Hung around for a long time trying to figure out the move which I still didn't get right. Rest of route went fine.
|Alistair Corbett||11/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
spicy step across but easy
lead second pitch
Lead the first pitch which is nice but simple enough. The second pitch is the one; not technically dificult, just airy and committing. The leader will not avoid rope drag, and if using two ropes leave one unclipped for the second to be protected on the flake, or a huge fall is possible! As for the hidden foothold it is as plain as day, so don't go hunting for what is obvious. A true classic!
|Ian Broome||05/Jun/10||AltLd β||
greatful for the rope beta, after seeing the party before us spend an hour faffing with caught ropes on the last pitch
|scotty h||03/Jun/10||2nd dnf||
did the first pitch fine. Struggled moving across the flake with head games then found i could not move down the flake holding on sideways and lowered off just before the crux.
Tim Nixon, Ronnie
|Dave Mahon||?/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Classic. Don't lead both ropes down the flake if your second is a novice - I have seen a few epics.
Led P2 - easy when you know how :)
Damn rope drag!!
hardest route mentally i have ever done on the second pitch
Ali first pitch Glyn second pitch
|Glyn Davidson||22/May/10||AltLd rpt||
Chnaged my mind, I did it gain but with less expectation of it this time, three stars. Got eaten alive by the spawning midgies at the belay.
I led pitch 2. The best gritstone route I've climbed so far.
|Mike Hegarty||15/May/10||Lead O/S||
Had real bad rope drag due to climbing on single rope..Wont make that mistake again..! Every day is a learning day..!!!
frigged the second pitch after not finding the hidden foot hold. Chris managed it and I kicked myself afterwards for not managing it!
Steve lead first pitch I lead second! Awesome route just scary enough although stood on the belay ledge looking across was ar worse than the climbing itself
|John Pickles||07/May/10||Lead O/S||
Graham Niven, Kieran Hodgson
Didn't find this as easy as I was anticipating bearing in mind it was a repeat. Still masses of rope drag on final slab despite best efforts
Managed to descend the flake too far and so included a more-awkward-than-necessary rockover onto the traverse. With this exception it was a really nice route.
Lead first pitch, climb of my life. Partner declined the final slab and back climbed the crux. Abbed off belay stance.
For whatever reason could not managed the slabby finish so ended up doing the hard part forwards and backwards whilst placing and retrieving the protection, 3rd ever climb I've backed off and I'm still not sure why !! Need more time on grit.
kasia and nick
|Alex Thompson||27/Apr/10||Lead β||
Easy 1st pitch, got really gripped on the descent move off the flake (friends pointed out the secret foot hold). Messed up the ropes, loads of drag, had to untie and lower rope down to Jon. Pretty tough for VS...
|jon thompson27||27/Apr/10||2nd O/S||
Wow... agree with the guidebook - the greatest outing on grit in the UK!!! Transition from the shiny pebble balancey stuff after thuggish moves around stunning exposure down climb on lip... all in an afternoons VS extravaganza!! To Wales we go... and BEYOND!!
|irish paul||25/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
|Oliver Houston||24/Apr/10||AltLd dog||
rested a little on the rope on the way down...
Revisiting this old freind - can't remember when I first did it or how many times since. Beautiful day and Roni's target route. Still great.
Awesome climb one ive been wanting for a while now would have been nicer if the sun come out but still enjoyable and a little scary. Low in the grade at VS 4C I think
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||17/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Cool moving across the flake, was left uninspired by the rest.
Got tangled in rope at the crux, which made it slightly emotional!
Had a go at the lead and backed off, head must not be in gear after the xmas lay-off! Yan made short work of it. The second pitch was probably scarier to second!
|Ewan Russell||21/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
Didn't commit to crux for an age, will hunt arrived and before the banter could begin in earnest got on with it. Ben took the 1st pitch
Jan Hotar, Chris Surfleet
Jan Hotar, Chris Surfleet
hvs and crap
Simon B (OB)
quite heart pumping!
The weather was snowing and the rock minging.
I had first pitch
This seemed hard and scary for both of us, but we were both frozen. Amazing route all the same
Really good route, gonna make sure i lead it next time!
Made the first pitch easy. Climbed up and over the flake, but clouldn't reach across with any of the available limbs. Less cake and biscuits and I'll come back next year
First Pitch i lead
Me pitch 1, Pierce pitch 2. Good effort my Pierce considering this is his first year climbing.
I led first pitch and DGR led second.
|belay bunny turned bad||17/Oct/09||2nd O/S|
|Steven Andrews||17/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
|Mike Parker||17/Oct/09||2nd O/S|
Glad to have ticked this baby off the list. The crux move was "emotional", and finishing in the dark added to the occasion. Tried to go up the nails off width like the guide book suggests before seeing reason and following the polish.
Alt leads did 2nd pitch
Matt, Nic and Andy
awesome, even the belay at the top is interesting, keep a no3 Camalot. You can't practice this stuff at a wall! We one had one rope so I had to use lots of extenders
|Matt Bennett||26/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
lead crux pitch
Smudge led the first pitch. I led through. Hugged the bottom of the flake for a good 5 mins puzzled as to wtf to do. Then a helpful chap pointed out the hidden foothold and the rest was a joy. Cheese was distinctly unimpressed… Sorry mate…
lead 2nd pitch.
|Graeme Hammond||20/Sep/09||2nd rpt||
Phil found a hidden hold on the frst pitch which turns the alkward section into one easy pull through. Really enjoyed the second pitch :D Phil led both pitches as i had led it before.
|chris sm||20/Sep/09||AltLd rpt||
second on first pitch and glad it's a horrible climb. awkward climb down the flake on 2nd pitch to a peach of a move/step out
|Neil D||11/Sep/09||AltLd rpt||
Led P1 this time.
Lead pitch 2.
led 2nd pitch with hangover, 2nd didn't want to do it, so abbed for gear which was more scary than the climb!
Messed the route up with my ropework on pitch two, jammed one of the rope and made it a real struggle after going around the nose. Still a great route.
I lead first pitch, Mark did the hard bit!
Led P1. Got scared on P2!
Paul led P1 in the wet, I led P2 in the dry. P2 is easy apart from the flake (which is just wierd because it's a down climb) and the delicate step is delightful, if you go low enough, stay high and it's gonna be a lot harder! Careful as you step over the newly missing flake on the headwall; it's very muddy/loose.
Slipped on the climb down. Fantastic exposure on the traverse. I found undercutting helped.
|Double Knee Bar||14/Aug/09||2nd dog|
Fell off on pitch 2 at the balancy crux after leading pitch 1 ok. Have since seen a few pics and the trick seems to be a hand low down on teh break rather than gripping pebbles like I did ! Next time ...
Led P1. Pulled on a sling for balance as I stepped across from the flake on P2. Otherwise good ascent!
|Stuart Wildman||02/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
Excellent climb. First pitch harder work than the 2nd IMO. Didn't find the traverse as scary as expected. Big rope drag by the end - better ropework next time.
|Happy Wanderer||25/Jul/09||AltLd O/S||
Led 1st pitch
|Poco Loco||11/Jul/09||2nd dnf||
What a cock up! Probably not the best choice of route for a team of 3. Will come back and do it properly.
Bob Barnes, Richard Roberts
Got some bad mojo going on and backed out of the second pitch. I had loads of rope drag, and so needed loads of slack (which I wasn't keen to take) to go up the outer face.
James Pomeroy; Richard Roberts
Les & James W
|cooper leek||?/Jul/09||AltLd O/S||
Lead second pitch
Me pitch 1, Mark pitch 2.
Seemed much better on the lead- but still felt like I was off!
What an epic on an epic route
Carwyn and Nick
Lead 1st pitch - left side of block easier. Seconded second pitch - slight balance on the rope on the big step. Battered, bloody and bruised. Excellent stuff
|Chris Sansum||24/May/09||AltLd rpt||
Always a classic!
Glorious second pitch. Dave fell off and I lowered him through a holly tree.
Great climb despite being severely hungover
|michael burrows||10/May/09||Lead rpt|
damned hard work
|Glyn Davidson||09/May/09||AltLd O/S||
Lead the second pitch. Committing move on the traverse. High in the grade i thought. Not sure I'd give it three stars.
nails! And scary! And what a wind was blowing, making it freezing! Good lead from Sam. Lead first pitch.
Absolutely cacked myself moving from the flake. Didn't help that the guide book was wrong and tried to go up the crack. Absolutely nails, eventually went for a wander around the side and found the (much) easier and proper line. Thanks Rockfax for making it all the more "enjoyable"!
What a classic climb at 7 in the morning with the mist just starting to lift,climbed Pebbledash afterwards would make a good first pitch for Valkyrie.
|Lauren Davies||25/Apr/09||AltLd O/S|
nice climb, big moves over first overhang, only had time to do first pitch, will be returning to complete the full classic route that looks amazing
lost the coin toss to lead the second pitch, great fun though even seconding
Seconded both pitches
Intended to lead the top pitch, but backed off rather quickly and had enough of a mare just seconding... oh dear!
Awesome! Even though I'd done Valkyrie Direct last week the step across was still intimidating!
Lead first pitch, very polished and not particularly nice. Not a bad route, the second pitch was good, but not really worth 3*.
|Callum T||15/Mar/09||AltLd O/S|
Lead both pitches! Put in a very poor performance! Bad show.
|Alex Mason||21/Feb/09||Lead O/S||
Lead both pitches, great blind stuff coming down the flake, wind blowing in my eyes so i couldnt see for tears.
I led the first pitch, Paddy Schofield led the second, ace route.
|Andy Peak 1||??/2009||Lead|
|Mr. K||31/Dec/08||2nd dnf||
Retreated after first pitch due to the rapidly approaching darkness
quality climb, just wish the dark hadn't stopped play, next time i want the 2nd!
awesome! uber classic! i led pitch 2 really exposed step out to the arete but totally fantastic!
Jack 1st pitch, me second pitch (fantastic!)
|Dr Caterpillar||01/Nov/08||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitch 2 - an absolute cracker of a route!
Tricky bulge 6m up then good to the first stance right of the flake. Decent down the flake a bit scary but good holds for feet and hands. Good hidden ledge for right foot at the bottom of the flake. Good under hang hold just above the ledge that you step across to help you over. Traverse around the nose to ascend a difficult slab which to my mind is the crux. After this, good jugs to the top. Weather was misty with a fine rain that made the climb greasy and much more difficult than it normally is. Epic climb with great variety!
I'd wanted to do this one, particularly the second pitch for *aaaaages*, so I was really very excited to finally get on it. James led the first pitch very nicely, slippy as hell. Then I ended up having a complete and utter nightmare on it (try 15 minutes desperately hanging/slumping/slipping/swearing at the bottom of the flake). Was completely psyched out when it came to making the step across, and took an age to make it. After that bit (and once I'd calmed down again) it went fairly smoothly. Rope work requires as much concentration as hinted at. May need to have a rematch sans cold at some point.
Lead second pitch - fantastic for VS.
lead pitch 2
Led both pitches
Easy when you know how
Scott & Rachel
went up the HVS variation with an awsome off width crack and took 3m fall, re-thought and went the right way
Lead first pitch which was straight forward. Had a bit of trouble with stuck rope on the second pitch. Don't think I found the illusive foothold, but found "the move" ok anyway
Led 2nd Pitch - absolutely superb route
Led first pitch.
Some Scottish Bloke
Led both pitches. Lives upto its reputation as a fantastic climb.
I led the first pitch but we had to back off after Tom had done the flake cos it was chucking it down.
Failed to lead P2.
led first pitch cleanly, we all chickened out of leading second pitch so bailed out up the corner. One to be completed another time!
alastair and dave
|Alex Winter||23/Jun/08||Lead O/S|
still a great climb when repeated after over 10 years!
Back to lead P2 after running away scared a year ago.
Excellent route- one to lead fully!
Excelllent, Led both pitches.....
|Byronius Maximus||07/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
Possibly the best route I've ever climbed on Grit!
with Ste in the middle
Fell off on crux. Very balancy to step accross.
|Pete Horn||24/May/08||AltLd O/S||
The artist formerly known as Smokey Rob
Led top pitch
Led first pitch not in great style but confidently and solidly, thoroughly enjoyed it. pete then led the second pitch and did a great job of the layback downclimb to start, I don't think I would have been up to it quite yet after following him. Pete accidentally lowered Jo off as she got to the lowest point of the flake much to her annoyance but High winds were to blame not Pete!
Pete MacDonald + Jo
completed first section but missed the step out left on second section and accidentally got lowered to a point of no return!!
Gary and pete
only my 3rd time out climbing, rocked big time baby !!! Glad i had an excellent partner who lead and gave great advice.
|Jim Slater||13/Apr/08||AltLd O/S||
Led second pitch. Spectacular!
nice climb. after descending the flake went up the crack instead of going around to climb the slab, very unpleasant.
really enjoyed it. tried to lead before but bottled it lol.
Scary but exhilirating
lead both pitches - really nice 2nd pitch, 1st was a little tricky.
|Steve Banham||10/Feb/08||AltLd O/S||
Very Good - Mind the rope drag!
|Will Hunt||12/Jan/08||AltLd O/S||
Lead second pitch. Stunner. Took me a while and some worry to find the hidden foothold and figure out the sequence. Easy when you know how.
I lead first pitch- got to ledge- and we decided it was a horrible day, we should be in the pub- it was bitterly cold- even the boulderers were not climbing. Abbed off!
|Dan 85||17/Nov/07||AltLd O/S||
second pitch more pleasant than first, even despite the final slab up the nose being quite a reach for me.
Had tried this twice before and bad light or bad climbing stopped play. nice climb.
|Will Jung||21/Oct/07||AltLd O/S||
Tim lead first pitch, I lead second.
Tim D'Urban Jackson
Lead pitch 1 loved this climb very entertaining!
|Rich Kirby||06/Oct/07||2nd O/S|
|Rachel Somerville||06/Oct/07||Lead O/S||
led pitch 2.
|Laurence Everitt||30/Sep/07||2nd rpt|
|Karl Wooffindin||09/Sep/07||AltLd O/S|
paul had a go at the first pitch. decided i could have it as it was so wet and slippy. had a fall going over the bulges so decided to try it on a better day. did something a bit easier instead. at least i didn't scream like a girl when i fell (no offence girls)
finally lead both pitches
|Darrell Read||26/Aug/07||AltLd dnf|
|Graeme Hammond||11/Aug/07||AltLd O/S||
led 2nd pitch!
finally got the balls to commit to the crux and got it today on lead
|Strange little creature||06/Aug/07||AltLd O/S||
|The Bad Cough||05/Aug/07||AltLd O/S|
one stupid rest pulling on a cam, not the hold next to it...... down as rested.
|ed edwards||?/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
|Dan Leach||29/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
|Duncan Skelton||28/Jul/07||Lead rpt||
!st pitch lead, better than ever. Kai 2nd - first time on the route.
|matt ling||20/Jul/07||AltLd dog||
lead 1st pitch clean, fell 2nd pitch while seconding
matt pitch 1 me pitch 2
|Phil Jennings||08/Jul/07||2nd O/S||
Took too long on first lead before this so we started off with head torches on. Abbed off. Rope jam. A good intro to outdoor climbing!
What i laught i had on this.. i lead p1, dan lead p2, when i whent over the flake climb half way down then traverse...i got stuck.. back on the flake i whent (now i know what to do!!) so done that move, now up the green crack (i know what youre thinking..go round the noes ..SO i whent up the first crack then got stuck again... this is getting harder vs!... anyway did it, will be doing it right next time!
|Howard J||19/Jun/07||2nd O/S||
Hit by a squall of filthy weather just as I topped out
|Richie Rich||09/Jun/07||2nd O/S||
|matt ling||07/Jun/07||2nd dog|
Nick lead the 1st pitch, i lead the 2nd, awesome climb!
best climbing ever! Got to the top just as the sun was going down. Climbing was spot on.
|jon p H||06/May/07||AltLd O/S||
Led P1. Found it pretty awkward and almost popped off a couple of times. Also missed the hidden foothold on P2 and found another one instead. But the step across is fine. Brilliant route and an experience that I wont forget!
Lead P2. What an immense climb. Worth all the hype..
|Morgan Woods||05/May/07||Lead O/S||
Climbed as a three and led both pitches. A low right foothold helps with the step across. Def 3 stars.
Gareth and Padge
Lizzie led first pitch (I don't like cracks!). I led second pitch with a bit of beta from mates standing below. Once I'd worked out the move across to the lip, and committed, I loved it.
Lead first pitch only.
|Fat Tim||21/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
me pitch 1 mike pitch 2
|joe larner||13/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
In 3 pitches
|Chris Sansum||07/Apr/07||Lead β||
Done previously, but on that occasion alternating the leads. This time led all of it. Didn't find it too hard, but made the mistake of trying to follow the line in the Rockfax book which goes up the crack after you traverse across - that line is pretty difficult! Ended up ascending the correct way up the slabs to the left.
|Mike W||04/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
Fell off the second pitch, lowered through the holly bush. Prickly.
|drop dead fred...||?/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|drop dead fred...||?/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|Laurence Everitt||28/Mar/07||2nd rpt||
3rd time ive climbed this one
|Laurence Everitt||24/Mar/07||Lead rpt|
Scary Move to downclimb then traverse. Very exciting though
|Laurence Everitt||14/Mar/07||AltLd RP||
Lead pitch 1, fell off lead on pitch 2, then seconded the whole route clean
i lead pitch 1. must do pitch 2. first big flake is getting wobbly... :-s
I tooked over the lead in P2, after Graeme backed off. Still scary!
|Somerset swede basher||10/Mar/07||AltLd O/S||
|The Mountain Goat||10/Mar/07||AltLd O/S||
Finally got the second pitch.
|Andrew Sloan||09/Mar/07||2nd rpt||
Didnt complete second pitch
|Matt Shepherd||10/Jan/07||AltLd O/S|
|trevor macalonan||??/2007||AltLd O/S|
|Brian Rodgers||??/2007||Lead O/S||
took sometime plucking up courage to make that step across on the 2nd pitch....
It took almost 4 hours(!). Graeme escaped after P1 via HS, as it was getting dark. Adam gave up seconding. By the time we retrieved the gear and packed up, 6 hours have passed. Absolutely fantastic climbing, though! My best climbing experience ever.
Adam W, Graeme B
Hard for the grade, first pitch was very green and slimey second pitch was fun while being watched by a small school group!
|Mr Wild||14/Oct/06||Lead β||
Lead Both pitches
led 2nd pitch after dom fell, paul fell seconding and had to ab for gear.
|Mr Wild||04/Aug/06||AltLd O/S||
Lead second pitch, gonna stay in my memory forever this one, first "real" Leading experience
|epic ed||02/Jul/06||AltLd O/S||
Borja led second pitch. We even had 'Ride of Valykries' type thunderclaps to add to the atmosphere! One of the greats.
|John HW||01/Jul/06||AltLd O/S||
interesting.... need 2 50m ropes just in case anything goes wrong!
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||04/Jun/06||AltLd dnf||
Lead 1st pitch, Leah wussed out of leading the second
|dan gibson||03/Jun/06||Lead rpt||
Lowered off at second pitch
|Chris Sansum||18/Mar/06||AltLd O/S||
Awesome route! Led 1st pitch. Simon led 2nd pitch. Had to shake every limb to get the blood flowing again before seconding the second pitch. For Simon it was even worse because he was belaying from the top without any shelter from the icy wind. Seconding down the edge of the flake was probably as hard as leading it since the prospect of a long fall was a possibility. The jams on the left of the flake felt very secure though (lucky as it happened, since a cam was jammed in tightly and I had to spend a while removing it). Want to go back and alternate leads the other way around.
Led 2nd pitch
Nice climb. Used the right rope for the traverse across of pitch 2, which left me the left rope to hang down over from the top, protecting the second for the climb down off the belay stance. Stepping across from the flake was not scary, just a serious stretch - maybe i missed the "hidden" foothold?
|Lawrence Eccles||??/2006||AltLd O/S||
Hungover. Snowing. Led first pitch. Steve led traverse. Awesome.
|Dave Latimer||13/Sep/05||AltLd O/S|
|Si dH||04/Sep/05||AltLd O/S||
Main pitch led by Amanda
|The Mountain Goat||26/Jun/05||Lead O/S||
Backed off second pitch. Climbed the corner to finish.
|jamie ward||22/Jun/05||AltLd O/S||
spooky second pitch, pebble pulling on a VS??!!
|Simon Cahill||23/Apr/05||Lead O/S||
first onsight VS nice.
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
|the abmmc||??/2005||2nd dog|
|Andrew Barker||??/2005||Lead O/S||
bailed big time and had to leave a sling and crab on the ledge wounded
becky coles, ben shillito(?)
Clive & Will
First proper hard climb outdoors - scared shitless.
|brian watson||01/May/04||Lead O/S||
First pitch only..
Also seconded John Carlin in 2007
What a route, easier with hindsight and a second time round. Magnificent.
Mike Todd, Maria
Roped together with Grimer and Clare in the dark!
|John Eley||??/2004||AltLd O/S|
|Simon Caldwell||18/Oct/03||Lead O/S|
The balancy move around the rounded arete not very comforting in strong wind.
Absolutely classic. Missed the 'hidden' foothold at first and almost dropped out of the bottom of the big flake!
|Phil West||12/Jul/03||2nd rpt||
Chris Tan & Shaun Walby
|Mark Collins||26/Apr/03||Lead O/S||
Led pitch 2. Superb - still remember this one vividly.
|Mark A Humphries||05/Apr/03||Lead O/S||
Andy led 1st pitch and I led the 2nd. Since done it the other way around
|Smelly Fox||26/Feb/03||AltLd O/S||
|Ram MkiV||??/2003||AltLd O/S||
Tom lead 1st pitch. Me 2nd. quite exciting route - battling with midges. see notes for staffs flyer.
Tom (reeve's mate)
|Phill Mitch||??/2002||Lead O/S||
|chris ginge||??/2002||Lead O/S||
feel good fctor for sure
|John Brayshaw||10/Jun/01||AltLd O/S||
Keith Shaw, Chris
|Alastair Hudson||09/Jun/01||Lead O/S||
|Jim Brooke||27/Aug/00||AltLd O/S||
Chris Born, Chris Gudgeon
Lead 1st pitch
Seconded P1, Led P2.
strutt did the hardest bit(flake descent)
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|zero six||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|Gary Coggon||??/2000||Lead O/S||
Lead Pitch 1 second pitch 2
Boooolllllooooccckkkkksss. Should have known, when the first pitch was just to resuce my gear, and the grease was amaising, that the second pitch with so much drag I untided and soloed to the top in the rain with the die running out of my boots. Awsome climb!!!
Lead 2nd pitch
|CrashMat Rob||09/May/98||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||29/Mar/98||Lead||
|nige pacer||?/Mar/98||AltLd O/S|
Led pitch 2 - scary
William Wilson, James Kay, adam ellwood
done before sometime
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||09/Jul/97||AltLd||
ML 1st pitch. Backed off p2 as it was raining.
Variation only! Finished off and right.
|Phil West||10/Aug/96||Lead rpt||
Led both pitches.
|Duncan Bourne||18/Jul/96||Lead rpt||
Brilliant route! First time I attempted it a few years back I had to be rescued off
Pitch 1 Paul, Pitch 2 Me. A great route!
50 years after Bowdon did the first ascent with Peter Harding!
|A Crook||19/Apr/96||AltLd O/S|
done several times over the years, and enjoyed it every time. It took two attempts to get the rock over sorted at first go! The first attempt involved a nice swing!
|Phil West||?/Aug/95||Lead O/S||
Led 2nd crux pitch.
Steve Wild & jimmy Turner
|Scott McRae||29/Apr/95||Lead O/S||
Blind foothold and massive rope drag. oops!
First ever VS lead.
|epic ed||21/Sep/92||AltLd dnf||
Led 1st pitch but rained off second pitch.
|adi bryant||30/Sep/91||AltLd O/S||
Fai Kwong, Mandy Kwong
Windy and un-nerving, some sort of f-up with the ropes IIRC
Led all the way round until the final mantleshelf on the front nose. Couldn't do it (reach) so belayed there!
Led pitch 2. VS climbing in extreme position. Wonderful, best VS on grit?
There was snow on the ground...
Bit of a fuss really
|Chris the Tall||??/1987||2nd||
Top pitch only - combo with Pebbledash
|Gordon Stainforth||01/May/77||Lead O/S||
Paul Long, Bob Knapton
|chris sm||??/0000||AltLd O/S||