Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Eugene's Axe* E2 5c

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[Eugene's Axe, 2 kb]20m. Climb the rounded arete from a big flake to steeper rock then take the wall above, left then right, then finally left again. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Codling 1979

Photo: Eugene's Axe © daveagriff
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Avoided the hardest bits (using the HVS). That arete is pretty blank!
Daniel Heath - Solo - 20/Apr/13

Placed a side runner in pebbledash as per the BMC guidebook description (rockfax description is a sandbag). Top wall was fine. E2 5c with the side runner, E3+ without.
willoates - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/12 with Steve

Steeve - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/12

crazy pierre - TR dog - 23/Sep/12 with Farmer Ben

benjizac - TR dog - 23/Sep/12 with Andy Edwards

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11

hilty - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11

attack the crack - 2nd dog - 22/Jan/11

jon clayton - Lead - 20/Jan/11 with sasha

MaccMark - 2nd - 16/Aug/10 with Philip Jarvis

Good lead by Nick. I fell off the crux sloper as I pulled on it. Chalked up and got it second time.
adamwesthead - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/10 with Hoult, Zeb

zebster - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Nick, Adam

Laura-lou - 2nd - 25/Apr/10 with Chink

Bailed from crux.
Neil D - Lead dnf - 25/Mar/10 with Boriz Korzh

BorisVBlade - TR RP - 25/Mar/10 with Neil Dowse

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

In the dark!
nathanroberts89 - TR dog - Jun/09 with glenn

Had to gibber my way off the upper section of the arete into the Pebbledash corner to get some gear in but climbed the upper section in good style.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2008 with Brian

daveagriff - TR - 2008

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06 with charlie

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Felix Coxwell

Gus - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with andi elizabeth turner

placed protection on Pebbledash.
Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with David Jupp

Roget - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/97

Roget - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/92 with baccy

Mark Kemball - Lead - 01/Apr/84 with Paul Clark

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Abraham, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 25
hard E30 of 8
E30 of 8
easy E35 of 8
hard E21 of 8
E22 of 8
easy E20 of 8
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard 6a0 of 9
6a0 of 9
easy 6a1 of 9
hard 5c3 of 9
5c5 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b0 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 8
2 Stars4 of 8
1 Star4 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 31 (3.2%)
Lead16 of 31 (51.6%)
Followed8 of 31 (25.8%)
Toproped5 of 31 (16.1%)
Unknown1 of 31 (3.2%)

'Climbed'10 of 31 (32.3%)
clean O/S12 of 31 (38.7%)
clean rpt1 of 31 (3.2%)
clean RP1 of 31 (3.2%)
dogged5 of 31 (16.1%)
dnf2 of 31 (6.5%)