Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
The Swan*** E3 5c

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[The swan. Classic E3, 3 kb]26m. An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then tiptoe round the bulge and traverse right until a stiff pull is needed to reach the continuation crack. A runner on the tree to the right can be used to shorten the pendulum if you muff the crux. Swing right and finish up the excellent jamming crack. Up the Swanee, E4 5c. As for The Swan but make the traverse with your feet in the break instead of your hands. Twice as gripping as The Swan and especially so for the tall. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Gosling (why didn't he call it The Goose?) one peg 1969 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1977. FA. Up the Swanee John Yates 1970

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

Photo: The swan. Classic E3 © northy1983
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

Good advice to use the sling in the tree, I didn't and fell in the greasy crack after the crux break, massive pendulum and 6stitches in the back of my head at Stoke a&e
Andy Smallwood - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/14

traversed out and pulled up to break but got pumped!
robman - Lead dog - 26/Jul/14

Got to the rockover but vertical crack was terrible. Took the massive pendulum and sprained ankle quite badly. Moral of the story is, sling the tree!
spidermonkey09 - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/14 with Ellie Fuller

bede.west - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Henry Francis

Finally committed to the rockover, scary! (Then spent way too long faffing with cams in the crack.)
Nick Russell - Lead - 01/Apr/14 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/14

Used the sneaky sling round the tree, made the traverse much more bearable.
HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - Apr/14

2 belayers. v.similar to Apoloosa Sunset; moves and rock not quite as good but position makes it more intense.
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Apr/14

angus - Lead β - 04/Dec/13 with Philbert

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with hosey

Got to the end of the traverse then ran out of ideas. I'll come back after a bit of slab practice.
Nick Russell - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/13

scary! nearly muffed the crux, v glad i didn't
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with ben

The most scared I was all weekend, green and slimy!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

With Ged, wouldn't be much fun to fall off after the traverse!
colesy - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Sep/11

Brown - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Lily

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 24/May/11 with bwestwood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Quite freaky for e3.
highlux - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

awesome.... more exciting as the break was damp!!
phil64 - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/10 with dave morse

not too bad, found it hardest getting established on the traverse. good to get the head back in the zone...psych high!
willoates - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Steve

_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Oct/10 with Ben West

really good
northy1983 - Lead - Oct/10 with andi t

Muffed the crux and took the swing into the corner. I'd liken it to a real solid rugby hit - managable but you'd rather not. Will be back with better tactics
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with Conor Clarke

Sketched through the crux only to fall off pulling up into the bottom of the hand crack due to a combination of green, damp mingingness and jamming ineptitude.
kingholmesy - Lead dog - 2010 with Tony Stone

Ebarnes - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

tom.e - Lead β - 18/Oct/09 with Malcolm, Pete, Tom Powell

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Tom Everett, Tom Powel

Got to the break below the jamming crack twice and each time had the pleasure of experiencing the pendulum - pretty safe. Gave up and finished up Pebbledash, the short traverse into it was quite tricky. Need to have another go, ideally on a cooler day.
Misha - Lead dnf - 13/Jun/09

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Danny

nige - Lead - 20/Feb/09 with john reti

Ben Harper - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Ben Harper

Will retry with a runner in the Mincer. Tree has gone.... maybe now E4?
IanJackson - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/08 with Robeverybody

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

daveagriff - TR - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with Toby Dunn

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 28/Mar/07 with dave evans

Tremendous route. First move on the traverse the hardest. Reached for the break 3 times before committing to matching it. The break could benefit from a brush. Recommend second rope from the tree to prevent a bruising collision with the groove of Pebbledash in the event of a fall.
shark - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/06 with Mike Garton

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 2005

mbutton - Lead O/S - May/04 with Rob Clifton

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/03 with John Nightingale

unfit - 2nd - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/01

Gus - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/01 with kev the tree, andi elizabeth turner

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/00 with Roy Thomas

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

David Smith - 2nd - 22/May/97 with Mark Gray

Mark Riley - TR O/S - 1997 with Richard Ibberson

switch - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/96

phardman - 2nd - 12/May/96 with Jon Bibby

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/May/95 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Billg - Sep/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/94

I found this really hard on the drop down. My feet just slid down the face while I was hanging onto the hold like hell. Left a semi circle of black rubber!
andrew300169 - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/93 with Pom

whispering nic - Lead - Oct/91 with slow hand nick

Roget - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/91 with baccy

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/90 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Mark Kemball - Lead - 01/Apr/84 with Paul Clark

andy gittins - 1984

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/82

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1982 with Rory Gregory

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
PeteWilson, Phoebus, Jordanh031, Andrew Abraham, jimxxx, Alistair Corbett, Hidden, Hidden, francois, Dean177, Hidden, mhawk, Hidden, Hidden, Jonathan Hall, Tomprusk, phil64, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, alimckay, Mr Powly, donkster, Hidden, Hidden, Jack Symmons, felixthelion, Hidden, middle aged slob, Will Hunt, beegsyboy, tatz45, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 84
hard E40 of 29
E40 of 29
easy E40 of 29
hard E313 of 29
E314 of 29
easy E32 of 29
hard E20 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard 6a0 of 29
6a0 of 29
easy 6a0 of 29
hard 5c8 of 29
5c20 of 29
easy 5c1 of 29
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
3 Stars26 of 26
2 Stars0 of 26
1 Star0 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Lead52 of 76 (68.4%)
Followed15 of 76 (19.7%)
Toproped2 of 76 (2.6%)
Unknown7 of 76 (9.2%)

'Climbed'29 of 76 (38.2%)
clean O/S34 of 76 (44.7%)
clean β3 of 76 (3.9%)
clean RP1 of 76 (1.3%)
dogged3 of 76 (3.9%)
dnf6 of 76 (7.9%)