Rockfax Description
26m. An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then tiptoe round the bulge and traverse right until a stiff pull is needed to reach the continuation crack. A runner on the tree to the right can be used to shorten the pendulum if you muff the crux. Swing right and finish up the excellent jamming crack. Up the Swanee, E4 5c. As for The Swan but make the traverse with your feet in the break instead of your hands. Twice as gripping as The Swan and especially so for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling (why didn't he call it The Goose?) one peg 1969 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1977. FA. Up the Swanee John Yates 1970

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Mark Grist 29/Aug 2nd

A great lead by Jim using two belayers.

Hidden 18/Aug Lead O/S
anguskille 18/Jun Lead G/U

loved this route. took the swing the first time which was exciting. awesome climbing, hard! desperate balancy slab work and fist jamming to finish. definitely not a gritstone climber! i've talked to Mike since, apparently i did the E4 version, feet in the crack

with Mike Grant
MichaelGallimore 30/May Lead O/S

With a side runner in the tree

with Flavio
FlavioL1989 29/May 2nd β
PeteWilson 04/May Lead O/S

most scared ive been for a while, never been so pleased to see a jamming crack!

with josh, Dave
jimxxx 22/Mar Lead

Fell just as I made the break and took the big swing . Got back on and made it second time .

jamesgodwin64 22/Mar 2nd RP
hilty 12/Oct/14 Lead G/U

Took the whipper at the end of the traverse, had ten then got it clean, awesome route, highly recommended!!

Andy Smallwood 15/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Good advice to use the sling in the tree, I didn't and fell in the greasy crack after the crux break, massive pendulum and 6stitches in the back of my head at Stoke a&e

robman 26/Jul/14 Lead dog

traversed out and pulled up to break but got pumped!

spidermonkey09 21/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Got to the rockover but vertical crack was terrible. Took the massive pendulum and sprained ankle quite badly. Moral of the story is, sling the tree!

bede.west 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 01/Apr/14 Lead

Finally committed to the rockover, scary! (Then spent way too long faffing with cams in the crack.)

Hidden 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Used the sneaky sling round the tree, made the traverse much more bearable.

Mark Warnett ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S

2 belayers. v.similar to Apoloosa Sunset; moves and rock not quite as good but position makes it more intense.

angus 04/Dec/13 Lead β
with Philbert
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
wolf.leeb 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with hosey
Nick Russell 06/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Got to the end of the traverse then ran out of ideas. I'll come back after a bit of slab practice.

w.pettet-smith 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

scary! nearly muffed the crux, v glad i didn't

with ben
jacobjacob 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

The most scared I was all weekend, green and slimy!

Hidden ??/2012 -
colesy 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S

With Ged, wouldn't be much fun to fall off after the traverse!

Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead RP
Brown 14/Aug/11 Lead
with Lilifa
pie_eater_pete 24/May/11 Lead
with bwestwood
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
highlux 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Quite freaky for e3.

phil64 22/Oct/10 Lead O/S

awesome.... more exciting as the break was damp!!

with dave morse
willoates 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S

not too bad, found it hardest getting established on the traverse. good to get the head back in the zone...psych high!

with Steve
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 2nd β
northy1983 ?/Oct/10 Lead

really good

with andi t
gnc760 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Muffed the crux and took the swing into the corner. I'd liken it to a real solid rugby hit - managable but you'd rather not. Will be back with better tactics

with Conor Clarke
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead dog

Sketched through the crux only to fall off pulling up into the bottom of the hand crack due to a combination of green, damp mingingness and jamming ineptitude.

Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
tom.e 18/Oct/09 Lead β
Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Everett, Tom Powel
Misha 13/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Got to the break below the jamming crack twice and each time had the pleasure of experiencing the pendulum - pretty safe. Gave up and finished up Pebbledash, the short traverse into it was quite tricky. Need to have another go, ideally on a cooler day.

NDD 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Danny
nige 20/Feb/09 Lead
with john reti
Ben Harper 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Will retry with a runner in the Mincer. Tree has gone.... maybe now E4?

with Robeverybody
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
AJ007 11/Aug/07 2nd dog
with Dan
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
Toby Dunn 28/Mar/07 2nd
with dave evans
shark 28/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Tremendous route. First move on the traverse the hardest. Reached for the break 3 times before committing to matching it. The break could benefit from a brush. Recommend second rope from the tree to prevent a bruising collision with the groove of Pebbledash in the event of a fall.

with Mike Garton
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
mbutton ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Oct/03 2nd O/S
unfit ??/2003 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Gus 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with kev the tree, andi elizabeth turner
goi.ashmore 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
uphillnow 22/May/97 2nd
with Mark Gray
Mark Riley ??/1997 TR O/S
with Richard Ibberson
switch ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
phardman 12/May/96 2nd
with Jon Bibby
ste_d 12/May/95 Lead O/S
with mik
nai ??/1995 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Sep/94 -
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
andrew300169 16/Apr/93 2nd O/S

I found this really hard on the drop down. My feet just slid down the face while I was hanging onto the hold like hell. Left a semi circle of black rubber!

with Pom
whispering nic ?/Oct/91 Lead
with slow hand nick
Roget 17/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with baccy
Rich Kirby 12/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Mark Kemball 01/Apr/84 Lead
with Paul Clark
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Hidden 03/Jul/82 2nd
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 2nd
with Rory Gregory
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Fraser hill-casey, Hidden, Andy Myers, PeteWilson, BenFitzG, Jordanh031, Andrew Abraham, jimxxx, Alistair Corbett, Hidden, Hidden, francois, Dean177, Hidden, mhawk, Hidden, Jonathan Hall, Tomprusk, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, alimckay, Mr Powly, donkster, Hidden, Hidden, Jack Symmons, felixthelion, Hidden, Simon Davenport, Will Hunt, beegsyboy, tatz45, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 33
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set