Smear Test** E3 6a
[Mr & Mrs Woodley, 3 kb]12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Approach via the hanging groove (actually Mincer Direct) then from a chockstone runner - or belay - sketch right across the slight weakness in the slab, to reach the finger crack and a short sprint to safety. Sticky rubber is a big help on this one! © ROCKFAX

FA. Gabe Regan 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush.

Photo: Mr & Mrs Woodley © richard kirby
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 140 logbooks, and on 50 wishlists.

Hard move to exit the roof (weighted rope after sitting around too long then got around with a bit of muscle). After some jamming you find out why its called smear test. Although there are a few sloped foot holds but for the hands don't expect anything more than tiny tiny pebbles. Awesome route!
jalqazzaz - 2nd dog - 23/Sep/15 with JRJones

One fall on the roof section. Shouldn't have fluffed it really, might go back and get it clean
JRJones - Lead dog - 23/Sep/15 with Jonathan Al-Qazzaz

Disappointed to fall off the crux and take a sizeable fall. Pleased to get back on it and do it clean next attempt.
Mark Grist - Lead RP - 29/Aug/15 with Jim Rogers

Can't get enough of this, great lead form Ben
Albachoss - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/15 with Ben

Weird alternative 'muffin' start, did smear test traverse clean
FlavioL1989 - 2nd dog - 30/May/15 with Mike Gallimore

Approached by Kicking bird, which I fell off, but did the smear test traverse section clean.
MichaelGallimore - Lead RP - 30/May/15 with Flavio

benw681 - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Lewis

Rickrick - 2nd dog - 04/May/15

Albachoss - 2nd rpt - 26/Apr/15 with Jake Young

Amazing, the smears are suprisingly good, i stood around quite abit throughout each move.
Jake Young - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/15 with Alex Banks

Shed a tear leaving the sanctuary of the left crack
Albachoss - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Ed

Amazing onsight Banks!!! Really enjoyed moving across the slab in the dark (!) Sublime route
Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Alex Banks

Seymore Butt - 2015

Lives up to its name - thin!
adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Stuart Johnston

Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Adam Ryan

i hate it and love it all in the same go, muster up courage and go carefully with faith.
jamesgodwin64 - Lead β - 12/Oct/14 with John Cooper

poeter210 - 2nd dog - 05/Oct/14 with argentinian machine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14

andy_e - TR dnf - 07/Sep/14 with Mike Gallimore

Tried on lead the following week but still feels too committing.
MichaelGallimore - TR RP - 01/Jun/14 with Ian crook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

switch - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Tim H

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/14

switch - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/14 with James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14

jimxxx - 2014

Hidden - 2014

mileshill540 - Lead - 2014

bwestwood - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with pete sargeant

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/13

Loved it
Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/13 with Dan bates

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Jules McKim

Traversed a bit higher than before...still hard, though the crux is surely that horrible bulge/crack section on Mincer - very happy if I never do that again.
julesmckim - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Alex Renshaw

Need to go back for this one, fell off slab.
ian d f - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/13 with Jacob

pete87abs - Lead dnf - 18/Nov/12 with Dave Brigham

needs to be done clean! awesome route tho
Sam Melville - Lead dog - 09/Oct/12

retro flash... felt even better this time! quality route.
willoates - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/12 with Steve

got it second go, brilliant.
Steeve - Lead RP - 08/Oct/12

Ky - Lead dog - Oct/12 with Dave H

Fell off 2/3 in on the slab. Wrong foot sequence and could not go back. Got it 2nd go from the ledge.
Chi Cheng - Lead dog - 15/Jul/12 with Joel Green

maddy.c - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Rob Laird - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Aug/11

After 2 falls due to lack of trust in the feet!
richardr - Lead RP - 07/Jun/11

Coel Hellier - Lead - 02/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Philip Pavey, Gareth C

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/11

Fell trying to traverse straight to the crack, once I used the crimps on the shallow flake succeeded fine. Great delicate route! Clean next time!
Lunar25 - Lead dog - 22/Mar/11 with Gedas

pbphil169 - Lead dog - Mar/11

Aufton - Lead dog - 28/Feb/11 with Sam Crabb

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Awesome climb. Slab looks desperate - until you piece it together, step by step...
highlux - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Dogged on one of the first moves but got the rest ok. Can't imagine leading runouts like this and respect to my climbing partner. My first experience of seconding a 6a route.
Daniel Heath - 2nd dog - 06/Nov/10

quiffhanger - Lead β - Nov/10

Excellent climb and one thats been on my mind for ages. Glad I did it but the ropedrag was terrible!
mlmatt - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/Jun/10

did the mincer crux then a bloke at the bottom said to try smear test. easy stuff if you keep cool!!!
hilty - Lead O/S - 16/May/10

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Apr/10

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Rose Williams

willoates - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10

juza - Lead - 15/Feb/10 with Garry Cooper

jimxxx - Lead dog - 2010

GF - Lead - 2010

Ebarnes - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09

barni - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09 with luke

drewish - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09

Got to the good handhold, foot slipped and off I went, somehow ripping my new trousers in the process. Comment from the audience: "Your gear held" - perceptive. Got it on the second attempt. Great route.
Misha - Lead dog - 13/Jun/09

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Alan Holden

Jack Symmons - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Chris T

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/09

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Mark

greenclimb - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Graham

tom 02 - Lead rpt - 2009

Lev - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Nov/08

Oh dear, really can't climb grit slabs - sorted my head out on the third go after two mini-falls.
alaan - Lead - 12/Oct/08 with Broom

CBA - Oct/08

shark - 2nd rpt - 27/Jan/08 with Jon Barton

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/07

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with Richard K

Jus - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/07

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Dave kettle

Wow that last move on the slab was sketchy as anything
Mr Wild - Lead dog - 28/Mar/07 with olly

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Dec/06

Stig - Lead dnf - 18/Nov/06 with Maciek

bullybones - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Brian Rodgers - Lead RP - Aug/04 with Kath

Brown - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/04 with Stu

Sam Doyle led, a few quality moves where you feel exposed moving across the slab
Andrew Abraham - 2nd O/S - 2004

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd β - 11/Oct/03 with John Nightingale

Gus - 2003

shoulders - Lead - 20/Apr/02 with tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/02

tlr - Lead - 2000

philhilo - 2000 with brian rodgers

Hidden - TR - 30/Aug/99

Mark Riley - TR O/S - 1998 with Richard Ibberson

sadams - Lead - 11/Oct/97 with Hugh Cottom

Didn't know it at the time, but this was pretty much the high point of my climbing career.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Aug/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/97

nige - Lead - 1997 with sven rowan

robtrooper - 1996

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 12/May/95 with mik

nai - Lead - 1995

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 22/Dec/94 with Ted Lister

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/94

third attempt!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 20/Mar/94 with Nick Ashton

took a few falls on it but really enjoyed it
andrew300169 - Lead dog - Apr/92 with Pom

Hidden - TR - 29/May/91

channinga - 1991

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/90 with Andy Mackay

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/90 with Richard France, Andy Joyce

Richard had failed to lead it, and I'd failed to get up the Mincer section, but this was easy on a top rope
Chris the Tall - TR - Nov/87 with Richard O'Meara

mark mcgowan01 - 1986 with Andy Popp

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 01/Sep/85 with Sean Myles

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - Aug/85 with Graham Aveyard

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/85

shark - 2nd - Nov/84 with Mark Mitchell

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/84

Mark Kemball - Lead - 01/Apr/84 with Paul Clark

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
FlavioL1989, Fraser hill-casey, ERH, dantheoptimist, ashtond6, rurp, sam corbett, Andrew Abraham, sgl0jd, Graham Booth, ian d f, francois, Nick Nitro, Dean177, deklan, jonnybull, timmyhobby, tgeh, rustaldo, Batt, JRae, mic_b, mhawk, neil0968, Harry Thorpe, Jay J, alimckay, Birdo, grady, smudge, donkster, Lallylandslider, tatz45

Total votes cast 177
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