Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Guano Gully VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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14m. The narrowing crack leading to an open groove up and right is a less smelly experience than you might be expecting. Once past the crucial overhang, things ease dramatically. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Ky - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Pete Bridgewood

Tophe - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Ben Ochner

j.townley - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/13 with Stops!

Tried the 5a VS start, it's certainly that alright!
Stopsy - Lead dog - 07/Jun/13 with townley

a good start, forgot to use the LHS in the mid section, certainly not a Severe any many contenders failed on the start.
gobey - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Paul

Dan Vaj - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Howie Bartrip

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13

Got my arse well and truly spanked seconding this. Out of practice on grit after the winter. Much harder than it looks.
stratandrew - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with James Williams

Knot-Paul - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/13 with Bob

The direct start through the wide crack, makes for a tough start. The crack was good fun and an excellent route all round, although I believe it to be harder than VS without a doubt!
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Darren Burns

saffy - 2013

not very nice, wet and mossy
joedoherty - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/12 with Josh Rigby

Did the Direct start at VS 5a, then had to ab down to collect gear as my second couldn't do the start
Killianmurphy - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12

not so much did not finish as did not start. COuldn't work out the opening sequence at the end of a tired day just after a fall. One to look at with fresh eyes.
puppythedog - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/12 with Julia

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/12

mike.rigby - Lead dnf - 26/May/12 with Ben Phillips, Pete Chaplin, Ufton, Andy Hawkins

tzettle - 2012

Hidden - 2012

andrew hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Misha

Jackspratt - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/11

pete_fewings - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/11

Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Colin, Iain

timatherton - 2nd O/S - 06/May/11 with Phil Cheeseman

phil.cheeseman - Lead O/S - 06/May/11

tradguy - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Rob Munday

maxkellock - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with chris

Bloody hell, couldn't even manage to get going properly, damaged a nut (luckily not the bodily part), got proper pi***d off and lost my rag with this one. Don't know why I couldn't get up, its only a Severe!
Duffers - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11 with Alex

Jamie Bevan - 2nd - 2011 with steffjacob1

Humm1985 - 2nd - 2011

not severe as guidebook told me, the start was much harder. Almost lost some gear but Eliot got it back for me after trying the problem.
Murray Lee Brown - Lead dnf - 13/Nov/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 12/Sep/10

JasonV - Lead dog - 17/Jul/10 with Phil

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jul/10

Guidebook says Severe second time on grit not used to the stile had a mini epic and took my first lead fall o well.
Quarryboy - Lead dog - 10/Jul/10 with David Bradbrook

aww why did I fall on the first try anyway best to recover my gear and get on with life
Quarryboy - TR rpt - 10/Jul/10 with David Bradbrook

3rd lead ever, Crux was a bit tricky for a noob like me, but oh so fun
Spidermunkie - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

Chrismoore94 - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Jan/10

Did this climb in the soaking wet,thus very poor friction.In the wet harder than some E3's. paul mitchell
paul mitchell - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

jepotherepo - Lead - Aug/09 with Helen

Hidden - 20/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/09

ben comery - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Tom D

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 23/May/09 with Bryn Wood

Tried to lead but failed pretty soon, was marked S 4b in our guidebook, definitely much harder. Had to set up on top to rescue the gear.
zard - Lead dnf - 02/May/09 with Josh Daymond

Hidden - TR rpt - 02/May/09

crux is second move over the overhang, lots of hand jamming after crux (witch i hate) hard climb pumpy loads of gear after crux
axeman - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09 with schofield

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/09

Rob Laird - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with B Sosin

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/09

emilysmile - TR - Mar/09

willoates - Lead O/S - Mar/09

joelewisoutdoor - Lead - 14/Feb/09 with Emily Anniballi

keith leonard - 2009

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 2009 with Rich Till

jepotherepo - Lead - Oct/08 with dawn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/08

Second Trad lead fall, Inverted
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 15/Jun/08 with Becca Snowden

Bloody awful! Did Sifta's Quid before which is supposed to be the same grade. It felt MUCH MUCH harder to me.
pepperpot - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/08 with Ralph Atkinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

TCHEKE - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07

destroyed at the end of the day.... hardest 4b ive ever tried!
ebunick - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/07 with Joe

hardest 4b i've ever climbed, would like to do again clean
james.f.williamson - Lead dog - 04/Aug/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Apr/07

Nature_Boy12689 - TR RP - 23/Mar/07 with Nadia Williams

little trev - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 03/Dec/06

little trev - Dec/06 with Rhys + Luke

jchenoweth - Lead dog - 22/Jul/06 with Dave Love and Samian

Blowing a gale - Ellie couldn't follow
Chesh - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/05 with Ellie

mark s - 2005

Danhan - 2nd - 19/Oct/02

tlr - Solo - 2000

craig h - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/98 with Jamie Lillieman

Iain Thow - Lead - 15/May/93 with Rosy Wright

Roget - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/90

andrew300169 - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Nov/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/88

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/88

Andy Fielding - Lead - 1980 with Mike Gilbert

Nigel Coe - 13/May/78 with Steve Portnoi

rogerskews - 1974

Rog Wilko - 2nd - Dec/70 with ??

mikej - Solo - 01/Nov/70 with Steve Evans

Not a route that appealed to me
oldmanofmow - Lead - 1960

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jackmccormack, valentinesbabe, reckless_rat, MattT88, Hidden, nublet

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS8 of 14
hard VS1 of 14
VS5 of 14
easy VS0 of 14
hard HS0 of 14
HS0 of 14
easy HS0 of 14
hard 5a0 of 12
5a2 of 12
easy 5a8 of 12
hard 4c1 of 12
4c1 of 12
easy 4c0 of 12
hard 4b0 of 12
4b0 of 12
easy 4b0 of 12
3 Stars1 of 9
2 Stars3 of 9
1 Star4 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....1 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 91 (6.6%)
Lead53 of 91 (58.2%)
Followed14 of 91 (15.4%)
Toproped5 of 91 (5.5%)
Unknown13 of 91 (14.3%)

'Climbed'31 of 91 (34.1%)
clean O/S32 of 91 (35.2%)
clean rpt4 of 91 (4.4%)
clean RP1 of 91 (1.1%)
dogged12 of 91 (13.2%)
dnf11 of 91 (12.1%)