Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Elegy*** E2 5c

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Clive Coolhead >>
[Elegy, 2 kb]16m. Perhaps the best slab route in Western Grit! Climb the awkward overhanging corner to the base of the upper crack and large cams. Balance left to the tantalising flake and if you are completely baffled, try a bit of lateral thinking. Follow the creaky flake to its end (slightly dubious runners) then weave a way up the final bald slab connecting a set of small 'blisters' by brilliantly intense climbing. Photo page 21. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mike Simpkins (tension to start) 1960. FFA. John Yates 1969

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Faves, Get out on Rock, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Suggested routes stripes should do....

Photo: Elegy © Nadir khan
View all 19 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 294 logbooks, and on 121 wishlists.

robman - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/14

Couldn't make the transition onto the slap without falling. But really enjoyed the delicate upper section
gpcomps - TR dog - 22/Jul/14 with Andrew, Mike Hope

Varied and exciting. Crux is ok once you work it out, then top section is pretty thrilling...
Ewano - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Joel Brown

Couldn't figure out the move around the bulge
Tala M - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/14 with Mike Brookes

Stefan_Morris - 2nd rpt - 18/May/14 with Edmundmorris

Felt hard, sun had come round by this time.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with stefan

yes! so glad to o/s this been wanting to get on it for a year!
bede.west - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Henry Francis

took quite a while working out how to get round the bulge, but when i did it was alright, quite scary at the top!
pete1993 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Katie

the type of route that becomes much easier once you've done it a few times
thevoice - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

Bob - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

Epic. Went slightly too far left at the top and slapped up for a particularly muddy bit of the break. Came off and all 3 bits of gear in the flake ripped. The only things which stopped me hitting the ground were a high side runner and Alex running down the hill to take in slack. Broken fibula!
georgeevans88 - Lead dnf - 24/Nov/13 with Alex Winter

Grippy! Hard move round the bulge followed by tenuous smearing to the break. Very intense. Top confused me as there was no gear in the break and the climbing turned nails. Went up the easy arete but BMC guide suggested the easy crack in hindsight. Solid E2 anyway!
spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13

Awsom lead from dan!
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 26/Sep/13 with Dan bates

Dan Bates - 26/Sep/13

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with Jules McKim

Just brilliant! Uncertain step around the bulge, feels unlikely, falls into place when you commit. Top runout longer but easier than expected, except for the very finish...mad heather grabbing narrowly avoided!
julesmckim - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Alex Renshaw

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Sep/13

Climbster - 2nd β - 05/Sep/13 with Ian

So good! Have wanted to try this for ages and it didn't disappoint! Felt even better after doing jamming cracks for 6 days!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Matt

Awsome.. Found bottom crack hardest.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with hosey

aidanb - TR β - 17/Aug/13

Took ages to work out the weird step left, but then the upper slab was great, delicate and balancy. Roasting hot, sweat dripping into eyes!
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Emily

fluffed bizarre step around bulge onto slab (Weird move!must try again) then brilliant balancey slab
Velo Orange - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/13 with Toph

Absolute classic, can't wait to do it on the lead. The step across the bulge was exciting and committing, and the upper slab was excellent precise climbing. Most definitely a classic.
MischaHY - TR O/S - 11/Jul/13

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

Intense and amazing
icklejason - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13

Mike W - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/13

one of the best routes yet!! had its scary moments... i think i will wait a while before i repeat this one
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Mike

WillDoyle - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/13 with Mike

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/May/13

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/13

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 02/May/13 with Tom Doldon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/13

tcn_2002 - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13 with Ian Faulkner

Tom took a crag length whipper! And didn't fancy a second go, so I had a bash.
jacobjacob - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/13

sgl0jd - 2013

sam corbett - 2nd - 2013

Hidden - TR - 27/Oct/12

DaveAtkinson - TR - 27/Oct/12 with M.Lawton

FANTASTIC, took a while to commit to the move round the bulge, but top slab felt pretty steady if mega bold.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Richard Williams

after being up there twice before but being confused and finishing up the bulger, it was good to finaly get it. stepping left was the crux for me. amazing climbing on the slab.
willoates - Lead β - 08/Oct/12 with Steve

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 14/Sep/12 with Andrew Deckon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

one of the best routes i have ever climbed!enjoyed the slab on second as much if not more than had i led it!
jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with jim braithwaite

Charlie Zephyr Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with martin broadhurst

WillDoyle - 2nd - 11/Jul/12

My head popped!!
TommityP - Lead dog - Jul/12

Got on this first on Saturday before the sun came round. Wouldn't have fancied doing it later in the day
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve Shenton

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Ben

The move around the bulge was a bit of a head scratcher, after that it was plain sailing!
Dean177 - 2nd RP - 12/May/12 with Alan Dibben

saffy - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

ranga - 2nd - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Came off around the bulge.
Laurence Cowton - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Howie

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12

no way 5c, 5b at most. Found this very easy having just climbed Matinee and Mincer.
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Roxy, Thomas Geh

A real struggle. Particularly the steep crack at the start then getting out of it onto the slab. The slab looked completely blank to me.
DaveMo - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Will Tarran

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 16/Mar/12 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 16/Mar/12 with Mark Williams

amazing.
Steeve - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/12 with phil d

found i had no more excuses so just got on it. climbing is fairly steady but the position is amazing and the slime on the ledge above the runout added to the experience. outstanding route
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with The Doctor

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

tumbling wizard - Lead - 2012

admackie - 2012 with chris palmer

dithered on the bulge for ages until gf shouted at me to get on with it. top slab is defo intense
nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Andrew Abraham

Andrew Abraham - 2nd β - 15/Oct/11 with Nick Whimster

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/11

Takacs - 2nd - 02/Sep/11 with Jake Lodge

probably favourite grit route ever! Has all the best bits of grit and no finger jamming :)
thetradlad - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Rachel Takacs

Whacky move onto the slab. Could do with some nice shiny bolts though
i_a_coops - Lead β - 15/Jul/11

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Zach Stone

Budge - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Dave Valentine-Hagart

Absolutely ace. Each move takes more faith... gets a bit intense by the top.
JRae - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with C Middleton

chrism225 - 2nd β - 19/Jun/11 with jonny

chrism225 - 2nd β - 19/Jun/11 with jonny

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 14/Jun/11

dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - Jun/11 with Budge

pie_eater_pete - 2nd - 24/May/11 with bwestwood

bwestwood - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

Scary! But grit slabbing at it's best.
fennerz - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Sean Grady

billb - Lead O/S - May/11 with Mark Warnet

nai - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Richard

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11

Felt much easier than smear test, will lead next time!
Lunar25 - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Gedas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/11

crispyboy - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Lashlin

No chalk and very damp, complete mind f##k at the top, top route strange moves:-)
hilty - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11

JG - 2011

Annoyingly fluffed the moves up the slab and took a bit of a whipper before getting it clean.
kingholmesy - Lead - 2011 with John Stokes

John Mckeating - 2011

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Neil P

david morse - 2nd β - 23/Oct/10 with phil+rory

phil64 - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/10 with rory shaw, dave morse

Absolutly fantastic, getting out of the bulger onto the traverse overto the slab was interesting, but it was a well protected move. Smearing and tip toeing up the slab was great fun. A route i'll deffinetly do again
Spidermunkie - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10

Completely baffled by the balancey move left from the crack. Just couldn't figure out how to make it work. Very frustrating. Will be back.
PeteH - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/10 with Naomi Hart

Scary as hell even on a top rope!
paulnc - TR O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Rob Doman

Well worth waiting for
Rory Shaw - Lead O/S - Oct/10

move stepping out to slab completely baffled me, tried to stretch across in mid-conversation/while getting taken the piss out of by martini about my routine moments of faggotry that occur every few months, which then contributed to making me take a whipper and land upside down!
Bill Lawrence - Lead dnf - 25/Sep/10 with tommy martin

I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. The last move on the slab it a bit intense on lead and it doesn't help if the top-out is covered in scrittle, grass, heather, mud and other assorted detritus. Breathtaking lead though. Probably the best route I've done on grit.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10 with T. Selvage, C. Prescott

Not the best slab route on grit, but enjoyable.
tigertim - 2nd - 22/Sep/10 with Alex Winter

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 21/Sep/10

Aufton - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/10 with James Laing, James Johnson

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Jo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

juza - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Garry Cooper

irish paul - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Sarah Joyce

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/10

grady - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Hidden - TR RP - 30/May/10

jowgli - Lead O/S - 26/May/10 with Dan Smith

smudge - 2nd rpt - 26/May/10 with Joe Shaw

More intense than an orgasm!!!! Oh and scary.
Diggler - Lead β - 21/May/10 with Johnny

westaway - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

This is everything I hate about slabs, wrapped up in one nightmare
Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 19/May/10 with Mark D

This is everything I love about slabs, wrapped up in a fluffy blanket, (Laurence's face is a bonus).
Mark D - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with Laurence Everitt

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

chedder - 2nd - 02/May/10 with andy woolston

williamsd79 - 2nd dnf - 01/May/10

Fell off the last move on the slab! Took roughly a 40 ft. fall. The gear behind the creaky flake held well. Did all the hard bit and kind of mentally switched off,nonchalently pulled on some heather which had all the strength of a piece of spaghetti.Lesson learnt.The onsight has gone! Gutted.
donkster - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with crooko

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Rose Williams

Ebarnes - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

Pete Graham - Lead β - 18/Oct/09 with Malcolm Scott

thanks to Tim, for talking to me on last few moves
cobweb - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with euan naismith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09

mattcyp88 - Lead β - 01/Oct/09 with Dave Spencer

datoon - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with K

will6459 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09

thrutch - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09 with helen

smudge - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Rob

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Alan Holden

mark s - Lead - 09/May/09 with si wilson

Tricky crux. I thought the runout would be easy but it's pretty intense by the top!
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Dan O'Flynn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/09

mic_b - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

Jack Symmons - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Chris T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

Nicolas Duboust - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Dany

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Mark

mark button - Lead - 27/Sep/08 with Alex Adgar

mux - 14/Sep/08 with Simon Frost ,

mbutton - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Alex Adgar

a great route. runners in the flake are good, but feels pretty run out by the top of the slab
dave o - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 25/Aug/08

Terrifying runout and slightly perplexing crux.
alaan - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Bex and Phil

Annoyingly fell on VS bit at the start!
Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/08 with Gavin, Phil

Fell off attempting to hug the block on the step left.
Becky E - 2nd dnf - 10/Aug/08 with Alan Royle

Hidden - TR O/S - 01/Jul/08

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Kieran Leary, Outdoor ED

frost - Lead O/S - 20/May/08 with D Garry

tommytuffa - Lead β - 18/Feb/08 with Felix

Brilliant. first section a bit awkward but fantastic climbing on the upper slab.
felixthelion - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with T. Brookes

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

JGW - 2nd - 2008 with Matt Tilley, Ali Gurney

Misha - Lead dog - 06/Oct/07

Lawrence Eccles - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with A. Crook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

Mike W - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07 with Martin

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/07

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/07 with dave evans

nasty bulgy bit to get round, otherwise very nice
tim87dj - TR dog - 04/Feb/07

jamesturnbull - 2007

Whitt - TR RP - 07/Sep/06 with Andy

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06

Yikes! Upper slab is terrifying!
Pythonist - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/06 with Cathy Lane

Coel Hellier - Lead - 09/Jun/06

wolverine - Lead O/S - Aug/05

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Felix Coxwell

Sean_J - Lead O/S - Apr/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 2005

Brian Rodgers - Lead β - Aug/04 with Phil Leng

We won't talk about the leader's ascent. It was quite damp...
Jon Read - 2nd - Jul/04 with Neil Foster

Apharri - 2nd β - Apr/04 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/03

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/03 with John Nightingale

Will always be a defining moment of my climbing career. Led with total disrespect after watching an `old bloke` succeed a week earlier and whilst still breaking HVS/E1. No idea what was going on, just got committed and shat my pants to the point of disgust. Overjoyed at the top, not with the achievement, just with staying alive. Many pints followed
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Oct/03

Chris the Tall - Lead rpt - Oct/03 with Daz

northy1983 - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with andy b??

Brilliant lead beyond words - well chuffed!
Leofallon - Lead - 21/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/03

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 29/May/03 with Ted Lister

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/May/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/03

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2003 with john v

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/02

Hidden - TR rpt - 16/Jun/02

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/02

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 2002 with helen gibson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/01

kato'sdad - TR - 2001 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - TR - 2001 with Jon Berry

Date a guess - fresher trip 2nd year?
Ally Smith - Lead O/S - Oct/00 with Emily Goodman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/00

tlr - Lead - 2000

Peakology - TR O/S - 2000 with cat

Chalky Cat - TR O/S - 2000 with Dom Rich

nige - Lead O/S - 2000 with john buckley

philhilo - 2000 with brian rodgers

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

bullybones - 2000

akhughes - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

seconded Chris Hague
Laramadness - 2nd β - 17/Oct/99

Chris the Tall - 2nd - Jul/99 with Bill G

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/99

JonBray - Lead RP - 1999

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

ChrisJD - Lead - 18/Jul/98 with AlB

with a very high side runner in the bulger next door
CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/98 with Nicky

Glorious.
Tim Sparrow - Lead - Jul/98 with Alex Langdon

rurp - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/98

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 15/Feb/98 with William Wilson, James Kay, adam ellwood

Mark Riley - 2nd - 1998 with Richard Ibberson

Stunning
BruceW - Lead O/S - 1998 with Keith S.

sadams - Lead - 11/Oct/97 with Hugh Cottom

Hidden - TR - 18/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/97

switch - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/96

WB - Lead O/S - Jul/96 with Guy

phardman - Lead - 12/May/96 with Jon Bibby

shark - Lead rpt - 10/May/96 with Pete Cole

NeilGriffiths - 1996 with Phil

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 08/Nov/95 with Ted Lister

brady - 2nd - 13/Jun/95 with John Cameron

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/May/95 with mik

michael burrows - TR - 23/Apr/95

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 20/Mar/95 with Nick Ashton

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 22/Dec/94 with Ted Lister

Billg - Lead O/S - Sep/94

cam1401 - 2nd - May/94 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/93

30 degrees. Who says you need cold weather for slabs?
Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/93

OMSKB - TR - 28/Mar/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/93

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/92

Cowflinger - Lead - Aug/92

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/91

channinga - 1991

led earlier in year
Rich Kirby - 2nd - 12/Sep/90 with Andy Mackay

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/90 with jim, jon

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/90 with Andy Mackay

Michael Hood - Lead - 08/Apr/90

Hidden - 1990

One of the best routes I have done. Definitely hard for the grade
Gambit - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/89 with Barney

Mike Owen - 07/Jun/89 with Paul Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/89

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 07/May/89 with Paul Dawson, Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/89

Hidden - Apr/89

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/88 with Rob Scott

Hidden - Lead - 1988

RichardMc - 2nd - 27/Jul/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

Tom V - 1986

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 01/Sep/85 with Sean Myles

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/85 with Dave Booth

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1985 with Duncan Bond

andy gittins - 1984

stp - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Mar/83 with Johnny Dawes

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 1983 with John Arran

Hidden - TR - 15/Feb/81

Chris Craggs - 1980

rogerskews - 1974 with Paul Barrow

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Voting
Total votes cast 328
hard E30 of 113
E31 of 113
easy E314 of 113
hard E235 of 113
E262 of 113
easy E21 of 113
hard E10 of 113
E10 of 113
easy E10 of 113
hard 6a0 of 112
6a0 of 112
easy 6a4 of 112
hard 5c17 of 112
5c79 of 112
easy 5c10 of 112
hard 5b2 of 112
5b0 of 112
easy 5b0 of 112
3 Stars101 of 103
2 Stars2 of 103
1 Star0 of 103
0 Stars0 of 103
Bag of .....0 of 103
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Style of ascent

Lead171 of 294 (58.2%)
Followed70 of 294 (23.8%)
Toproped21 of 294 (7.1%)
Alt Leads1 of 294 (0.3%)
Unknown31 of 294 (10.5%)

'Climbed'104 of 294 (35.4%)
clean O/S132 of 294 (44.9%)
clean β16 of 294 (5.4%)
clean rpt9 of 294 (3.1%)
clean RP5 of 294 (1.7%)
dogged12 of 294 (4.1%)
dnf16 of 294 (5.4%)