UKC

29m. A right-to-left traverse taking in some hearty terrain. From the first moves of Stop...Carry on!, continue leftwards with either protection or jugs, but never both. Follow the line around the nose to Calcutta Crack (possible belay), then finish more easily.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fraser kid 21 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This route should come with a warning for the second! My partner protected the traverse as much as he could, but I was still destined for a ground fall for the majority of the route. Not for timid seconds. It’s hard to know you are on the right line, but if it it helps you are aiming for hand traversing the second nose, which is directly under the massive nose/roof. It’s dusty to start, but holds appear. Well worth seeking out. Some great positions.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route should come with a warning for the second! My partner protected the traverse as much as he could, but I was still destined for a ground fall for the majority of the route. Not for timid seconds. It’s hard to know you are on the right line, but if it it helps you are aiming for hand traversing the second nose, which is directly under the massive nose/roof. It’s dusty to start, but holds appear. Well worth seeking out. Some great positions.

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Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 3
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Technical Slab

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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