|Via del Buco Alta Variant||V+|
|330m, 9 pitches. Start on a small ledge with a piton a few metres from the ground on a leaning pillar. There is a deep yellow chimney on the right, and the route is just right of, and 30m below, two rock windows.|
1) IV-, 35m. Climb a ramp left then take a right-trending corner to a good belay left of a flake.
2) IV, 30m. Climb up and left to reach a small ledge, then climb a crack on the right before moving back left to belay on a ledge.
3) III+, 30m. Climb the slabs above with superb climbing for the grade then continue in a corner-crack. Move left around a small roof to the belay.
4) IV, 25m. Follow a crack above the belay (well-pegged) then move left onto slabs to avoid a bulge. Move back into the crack to reach a ledge and a good stance.
5) IV, 40m. Move up and right to avoid a yellow overhang above the belay then climb back left to re-enter the crack. Follow this past a small ledge on the right and continue to a stance on larger vegetated ledge. Here variants Alta and Bassa meet.
6) III+, 30m. Climb direct up the slabs above to a thread belay to the left and below the yellow face. This pitch is shared with Bassa.
7) I, 20m. Traverse easily rightwards under the yellow face.
8) V+, 20m. Climb direct then follow an enjoyable corner.
9) III+, 25m. Climb the continuation chimney past various chockstones and belay below a corner on the right.
10) V+, 35m. Climb the corner-crack rightwards with more difficult moves early on to a small ledge on the left just before the corner's end.
11) III, 25m. Don't continue up the corner; instead follow a crack diagonally right to top out by a prominent boulder surrounded by barbed wire. © ROCKFAX
Via del Buco until big ledge then continue up often wet chimneys to finish
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