Via del Buco Alta Variant*** V+
330m, 9 pitches. Start on a small ledge with a piton a few metres from the ground on a leaning pillar. There is a deep yellow chimney on the right, and the route is just right of, and 30m below, two rock windows.
1) IV-, 35m. Climb a ramp left then take a right-trending corner to a good belay left of a flake.
2) IV, 30m. Climb up and left to reach a small ledge, then climb a crack on the right before moving back left to belay on a ledge.
3) III+, 30m. Climb the slabs above with superb climbing for the grade then continue in a corner-crack. Move left around a small roof to the belay.
4) IV, 25m. Follow a crack above the belay (well-pegged) then move left onto slabs to avoid a bulge. Move back into the crack to reach a ledge and a good stance.
5) IV, 40m. Move up and right to avoid a yellow overhang above the belay then climb back left to re-enter the crack. Follow this past a small ledge on the right and continue to a stance on larger vegetated ledge. Here variants Alta and Bassa meet.
6) III+, 30m. Climb direct up the slabs above to a thread belay to the left and below the yellow face. This pitch is shared with Bassa.
7) I, 20m. Traverse easily rightwards under the yellow face.
8) V+, 20m. Climb direct then follow an enjoyable corner.
9) III+, 25m. Climb the continuation chimney past various chockstones and belay below a corner on the right.
10) V+, 35m. Climb the corner-crack rightwards with more difficult moves early on to a small ledge on the left just before the corner's end.
11) III, 25m. Don't continue up the corner; instead follow a crack diagonally right to top out by a prominent boulder surrounded by barbed wire. © ROCKFAX
Via del Buco until big ledge then continue up often wet chimneys to finish
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Difficult to describe what we actually climbed, intending to do Alta variant. Went too far left along the ramp, ending up somewhere between Bassa and Alta variants for P1 (making it a traditionally protected and reasonably steep VS crack, my lead), went too far right of the Alta variant on P2 (Chris' lead), then continued up to join the Alta variant on a third pitch (roughly corresponding to P4 of Alta, my lead), climbed pitches 5 (Chris), 6 (me) of Alta, then found that the final pitches of Alta were wet (as they often are, apparently), went off-route up a gully for a pitch and a half looking for the final pitches of Bassa (Chris' lead, then my lead, followed by down climbing and abseiling) and then finished with pitches 6,7,8 9 of Bassa (done in two pitches - my lead for 6,7; Chris' for 8,9). The best pitch was probably P1, where we were off route (!) but much of the rest was also very pleasant.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Chris Allan

Actually started up magic plaque.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with elsie

Started up Magic Plaque, converged with Via del Buco at midway ledge and finished up origional finish, last pitch damp. But two really good pitches of climbing, which were only slightly spoiled by the wet start to the second pitch.
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Alasdair

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/10

very hungover!! complete with body jam
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with emily roo

AMAMAMAM direct finish and 4hrs on the route. UIAA V+
Marq - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Andrew Funnell

Hidden - Sep/05

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Total votes cast 3
hard VI-0 of 0
VI-0 of 0
easy VI-0 of 0
hard V+0 of 0
V+0 of 0
easy V+0 of 0
hard V0 of 0
V0 of 0
easy V0 of 0
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