Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Hunky Dory*** E3 6a

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[Crux Moves on a roaches Classic, 2 kb]10m. The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to psych up for the tricky mantelshelf finale. © ROCKFAX
FA. Gabe Regan 1975

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Photo: Crux Moves on a roaches Classic © Ed Hamer
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 72 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

switch - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14 with John S

Found it a little awkward pulling up the crack, but loved the route.
Andrew Abraham - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with Clement Attwood

Glad I decided to try and lead this - very chuffed to get it clean. Didn't feel as hard as I was expecting. Bit awkward getting gear in top crack.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Andrew Abraham

2nd attempt sweet route 3 stars!!
Alistair Corbett - Lead - 05/Oct/13 with Mike

Mike W - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13

tcn_2002 - 2nd - 17/Feb/13 with Ian Faulkner

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Jacob, Tom C

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Rosh

Andy Moles - 2nd - 14/Mar/12 with Malc

Hidden - 2012

Brown - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Lily

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/11

scary
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Sandra & Pascal

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11

Not ideal as a warm up route...
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/11

clean up to the crux balancey mantle move, but just could not get this to work
hms - TR dog - 09/Apr/11 with UCR squad

Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 09/Apr/11

CharlieMack - 2nd rpt - 06/Apr/11 with David

Hidden - TR dnf - 28/Jan/11

Absolute quality. Mantle is precarious - but all there... Perfect gear too.
highlux - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Topped out on Hunky dory then went over and up the smeary slab of Circuit breaker. Good friction... for a warm day
Spidermunkie - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10

really nice, cool top move with good gear
willoates - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with James, Chrissy

aidanb - TR O/S - 23/Apr/10

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Rik climbed it in ideal cold dry clean conditions, then as soon as i got on it, it started raining and getting really windy! Still got it clean though
CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/09 with Rik Battye

siah - TR O/S - 02/Jun/09 with gavin nixon

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with AJ

Mr Wild - 2nd - May/09 with jon m

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/08 with Neil Pope

mark button - Lead - 27/Sep/08 with Alex Adgar

mux - 14/Sep/08 with Simon Frost ,

frost - Lead O/S - 20/May/08 with D Garry

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008 with Pete Carmichael

mbutton - Lead O/S - 2008 with Alex Adgar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/07

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/07 with dave evans

Stuart Johnston - Solo - 10/Mar/07

Slimy holds at t'bottom of crack. Got v. pumped trying to place gear and then fell off.
Jus - Lead dnf - 18/Feb/07

mattyork2 - 2nd - 05/Feb/07 with Alan Royle

alaan - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Matt

Si01 - TR O/S - 04/Feb/07

Lots of faffing before commiting myself - sorry again Dan for taking so long.
shark - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Dan Arkle

Steady with good gear Hard top.
wolverine - Lead O/S - Aug/05

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2005

John Southworth - Lead RP - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 14/Mar/98 with Al Willoner

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/May/95 with mik

Hidden - TR - 23/Jun/93

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 21/Apr/92 with John Jefferies

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/91 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - TR - 29/May/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/91 with colin

channinga - 1991

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 07/May/89 with Paul Dawson

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 01/Apr/84 with Paul Clark

6 falls
stp - Lead - 19/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Mar/83 with Johnny Dawes

Mark Kemball - Lead - 02/Apr/82

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
rurp, Hidden, Owen W-G, hfisher, Stefan_Morris, Jordanh031, Andrew Abraham, sgl0jd, Graham Booth, Harry Chaplin, Matt Harle, Dean177, timmyhobby, IanMulvany, siah, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, BeccaSnowden, Hidden, Hidden, tatz45, Si01, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E40 of 27
E40 of 27
easy E43 of 27
hard E314 of 27
E38 of 27
easy E31 of 27
hard E21 of 27
E20 of 27
easy E20 of 27
hard 6b0 of 19
6b0 of 19
easy 6b0 of 19
hard 6a0 of 19
6a10 of 19
easy 6a4 of 19
hard 5c5 of 19
5c0 of 19
easy 5c0 of 19
3 Stars17 of 19
2 Stars2 of 19
1 Star0 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 72 (1.4%)
Lead40 of 72 (55.6%)
Followed16 of 72 (22.2%)
Toproped8 of 72 (11.1%)
Unknown7 of 72 (9.7%)

'Climbed'32 of 72 (44.4%)
clean O/S31 of 72 (43.1%)
clean rpt2 of 72 (2.8%)
clean RP1 of 72 (1.4%)
dogged3 of 72 (4.2%)
dnf3 of 72 (4.2%)