Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Hunky Dory*** E3 6a

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[Crux Moves on a roaches Classic, 2 kb]10m. The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to psych up for the tricky mantelshelf finale. © ROCKFAX
FA. Gabe Regan 1975

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Photo: Crux Moves on a roaches Classic © Ed Hamer
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 78 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

robman - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/14

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14

Guy Brockless - TR RP - 26/May/14 with Paul Deane

Pumpy up to the ledge! Solid lead by Pete
Andrew Abraham - 2nd rpt - 21/May/14 with Pete Bridgewood, Ky

Awesome but pumpy, bit of everything
Ky - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Pete Bridgewood

switch - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14 with John S

Found it a little awkward pulling up the crack, but loved the route.
Andrew Abraham - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with Clement Attwood

Glad I decided to try and lead this - very chuffed to get it clean. Didn't feel as hard as I was expecting. Bit awkward getting gear in top crack.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Andrew Abraham

2nd attempt sweet route 3 stars!!
Alistair Corbett - Lead - 05/Oct/13 with Mike

Mike W - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13

tcn_2002 - 2nd - 17/Feb/13 with Ian Faulkner

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Jacob, Tom C

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Rosh

Andy Moles - 2nd - 14/Mar/12 with Malc

Hidden - 2012

Brown - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Lily

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/11

scary
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Sandra & Pascal

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11

Not ideal as a warm up route...
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/11

clean up to the crux balancey mantle move, but just could not get this to work
hms - TR dog - 09/Apr/11 with UCR squad

Hidden - TR dog - 09/Apr/11

CharlieMack - 2nd rpt - 06/Apr/11 with David

Hidden - TR dnf - 28/Jan/11

Absolute quality. Mantle is precarious - but all there... Perfect gear too.
highlux - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Topped out on Hunky dory then went over and up the smeary slab of Circuit breaker. Good friction... for a warm day
Spidermunkie - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10

really nice, cool top move with good gear
willoates - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with James, Chrissy

aidanb - TR O/S - 23/Apr/10

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Rik climbed it in ideal cold dry clean conditions, then as soon as i got on it, it started raining and getting really windy! Still got it clean though
CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 17/Nov/09 with Rik Battye

siah - TR O/S - 02/Jun/09 with gavin nixon

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with AJ

Mr Wild - 2nd - May/09 with jon m

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/08 with Neil Pope

mark button - Lead - 27/Sep/08 with Alex Adgar

mux - 14/Sep/08 with Simon Frost ,

frost - Lead O/S - 20/May/08 with D Garry

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008 with Pete Carmichael

mbutton - Lead O/S - 2008 with Alex Adgar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/07

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/07 with dave evans

Stuart Johnston - Solo - 10/Mar/07

Slimy holds at t'bottom of crack. Got v. pumped trying to place gear and then fell off.
Jus - Lead dnf - 18/Feb/07

mattyork2 - 2nd - 05/Feb/07 with Alan Royle

alaan - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Matt

Si01 - TR O/S - 04/Feb/07

Lots of faffing before commiting myself - sorry again Dan for taking so long.
shark - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Dan Arkle

Steady with good gear Hard top.
wolverine - Lead O/S - Aug/05

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2005

John Southworth - Lead RP - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/03

Gus - Lead O/S - May/02 with ben rouse, simon "the horse" wilson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/00

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 14/Mar/98 with Al Willoner

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/May/95 with mik

Hidden - TR - 23/Jun/93

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 21/Apr/92 with John Jefferies

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/91 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - TR - 29/May/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/91 with colin

channinga - 1991

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 07/May/89 with Paul Dawson

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 01/Apr/84 with Paul Clark

6 falls
stp - Lead - 19/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Mar/83 with Johnny Dawes

Mark Kemball - Lead - 02/Apr/82

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
rurp, Hidden, Owen W-G, hfisher, Stefan_Morris, Jordanh031, Andrew Abraham, sgl0jd, Graham Booth, Harry Chaplin, Matt Harle, Dean177, timmyhobby, IanMulvany, siah, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, BeccaSnowden, Hidden, Hidden, tatz45, Si01, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 67
hard E40 of 28
E41 of 28
easy E43 of 28
hard E314 of 28
E38 of 28
easy E31 of 28
hard E21 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E20 of 28
hard 6b0 of 20
6b0 of 20
easy 6b0 of 20
hard 6a0 of 20
6a11 of 20
easy 6a4 of 20
hard 5c5 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c0 of 20
3 Stars17 of 19
2 Stars2 of 19
1 Star0 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 78 (1.3%)
Lead43 of 78 (55.1%)
Followed18 of 78 (23.1%)
Toproped9 of 78 (11.5%)
Unknown7 of 78 (9.0%)

'Climbed'32 of 78 (41.0%)
clean O/S35 of 78 (44.9%)
clean rpt3 of 78 (3.8%)
clean RP2 of 78 (2.6%)
dogged3 of 78 (3.8%)
dnf3 of 78 (3.8%)