Staffordshire > Roaches Lower Tier >
 
Obsession Fatale*** E7 6b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Sifta's Quid Inside Route
 
Piece of Mind >>
[Gus on the final scary moves of "Obsession Fatale" (E8 6b), Roaches Lower Tier, Staffordshire, 1 kb]10m. The ultra-sketchy slab left of Piece Of Mind is easy (ish) on a top-rope, but a mighty-bold solo. Some say it is only E7 6b but only those who have done it on-sight are really allowed to comment. © ROCKFAX
FA. Julian Lines 1992. Julian fell off it and was unharmed before he made the first ascent. Kevin Thaw was less lucky (see photo 2000

Ticklists: BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Shock Of The New.

Photo: Gus on the final scary moves of "Obsession Fatale" (E8 6b), Roaches Lower Tier, Staffordshire © Gus
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 51 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

riff156 - TR dog - 14/Jul/13 with Matt Crawford

Totally enjoyed this climb even though it was top roped.
cragant - TR - 02/Jun/13

monsteratt - TR dog - 27/Apr/13 with Toby

Used left arÍte of sifta's quid to bypass crux
MichaelGallimore - TR dnf - 01/Sep/12 with Tom davenport

tomdavenport - TR dnf - 01/Sep/12 with Michael Gallimore

kez1 - TR RP - 24/Jul/12 with mike jones, james davies

will randall - TR dog - 27/Nov/11 with tom

Absolutely loved this route, especially the more challenging second half (small, strong fingers were definitely an advantage)
Jess Horton - TR - 16/Aug/11

almost!!!!
robman - TR dnf - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - TR dnf - 29/Jul/11

hard enough on a top rope from about half way, good lad for getting on it a second time to the FA.
benkelsey - TR dnf - 21/Jul/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - TR dog - 20/Jul/11

Hidden - TR - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - Oct/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 24/Aug/10

thrutch - TR - 09/Jul/10 with helen

You would need grit in the blood to get this. Got about 3/4 the way up the top slab and managed the first of the real moves after the holds run out. Insanity.
98%monkey - TR dnf - 02/May/10

Got to the second to last move clean then couldn't do it
Tomprusk - TR dnf - 06/Mar/10 with Duncan

Phil PBC - 2010

almost flashed, failed on top move. top move pretty hard but managed it in the end. would be a very scary solo, top move is very fuckupable.
tallsop - TR - 06/Apr/09 with terry

Stoff - TR dnf - Apr/09

mic_b - TR RP - 24/Sep/08 with fruitcake72

MattT88 - TR rpt - 27/Jul/08 with Becca Snowden

dennett - TR - 22/Jun/08 with calvin dennett

sarah87 - TR dnf - 11/Jun/08

MattT88 - TR dog - 04/Jun/08 with Christian

Hidden - TR O/S - 29/May/08

Got a good way up and then discovered why the route is an E7
maggsy - TR dnf - 14/May/08 with Matthew Turner

Fell 5-6 times doing route
MattT88 - TR dog - 14/May/08 with Alex Maggs

Fell twice on crux, rest climbed cleanly, done out of curiosity
MattT88 - TR dog - 14/May/08 with Alex Maggs

ClaireS - TR dog - 11/May/08 with Matt Turner

Ben1983 - TR β - 30/Sep/07

Quite nice till the top when you need to smear up cranking on a reasonable left hand pebble with stacked fingers and a shallow right mono dish, then slap for the top without feet sliding down! :)
Richard Hession - TR RP - 12/Aug/06 with Dom

HMmmm tricky
RETICENTFISH - TR dnf - 07/Aug/06 with Mike Watkiss

Smelly Fox - Solo RP - Mar/05

Hidden - Feb/05

northy1983 - Solo - 2005

Mark Collins - Solo RP - 21/Feb/04

Mark Collins - TR rpt - 24/Jan/04

Mark Collins - TR RP - 17/Jan/04

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - TR dog - 11/Oct/03 with John Nightingale

felt easier than/ similar to piece of mind
Gus - Solo - Jul/03

akhughes - TR rpt - 2003

mark s - Solo RP - Jan/01 with charle woodburn

antroy - TR - 10/Apr/00

John Mckeating - TR dog - 1998

2 top ropes then solo. 10 minutes.
Davros the Psyched - Solo RP - 1997

RossG - TR - 1996

Dave Pritchard - Solo RP - 22/Jun/94

Hidden - TR - 09/Sep/92

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Nick1812P, tchallen99, Hidden, Hidden, John_Hat, Hidden, Hidden, Diggler, St0neMonkey, MattT88, fennerz, Mr Powly, timo.t, Si01, Mr Wild, chicken88, Lex_2004

Voting
Total votes cast 43
hard E80 of 12
E81 of 12
easy E86 of 12
hard E70 of 12
E72 of 12
easy E72 of 12
hard E61 of 12
E60 of 12
easy E60 of 12
hard 6c0 of 11
6c1 of 11
easy 6c3 of 11
hard 6b0 of 11
6b6 of 11
easy 6b0 of 11
hard 6a1 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
3 Stars11 of 20
2 Stars4 of 20
1 Star4 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....1 of 20
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 51 (13.7%)
Toproped42 of 51 (82.4%)
Unknown2 of 51 (3.9%)

'Climbed'14 of 51 (27.5%)
clean O/S1 of 51 (2.0%)
clean β1 of 51 (2.0%)
clean rpt3 of 51 (5.9%)
clean RP9 of 51 (17.6%)
dogged10 of 51 (19.6%)
dnf13 of 51 (25.5%)