12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The unprotected blunt rib with the crux at the top was an astounding ascent before sticky rubber and remains a bold and infrequently climbed pitch. Sadly top-roping it is polishing the crucial holds just below the top - do you really have to? © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1977

Ticklists: Hard Grit, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush.


ClimberDateStyle
KatOstrich 17/Oct/15 TR dog
northy1983 16/Oct/15 Solo

A superb one way ticket slab/ arete, with a not worth thinking about landing. As someone that likes the odd slab, it felt to me at about v4/5.

with david h, teggs nose pete, andi t, mike b, andrew
Albachoss 08/Aug/15 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 TR
Hidden 10/Apr/13 TR dnf
dannyboy83 11/Oct/12 Solo RP

Finally got round to doing this, many years after first trying it. Pretty straightforward. Also tried Obsession but can no longer do the moves...has it lost pebbles??

kez1 30/May/12 TR RP
with simon warman
Dickon151 13/Apr/12 TR O/S

Clean on-sight on top-rope. I would need considerably bigger balls to solo this! Very insecure!

petekeron ?/Apr/12 TR O/S
Jess Horton ?/Mar/12 2nd β
with Ewan
jack1996 30/Oct/11 TR β

Was genuinely surprised to get this first go on a bottom rope! Had bits of beta at the top and the rope probably helped balancing, beautiful route nonetheless!

with Sid, tom s
friendzone1234 20/Oct/11 TR β

I finished the route, glad i top roped it took a slip half way up, estimate that would have been the fall without top rope

pipof747 15/Oct/11 Solo RP

Trust your feet

Hidden 20/Aug/11 TR O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 TR dnf
Hidden 25/Jun/11 TR
nathanlee 29/May/11 Solo RP

Waiting for dry conditions paid off. 1 go on TR then soloed. Very polished but still a mega-classic.

with Dom Lee
sev 21/May/11 TR O/S

Very Insecure, wanted to solo but mum wouldn't let me, next time!

saalty 16/Apr/11 TR RP

Wanted the solo, but a warm evening with no fingertips and only 2 pads seemed like the wrong time :p

with eddy
simeclimb68 16/Oct/10 Lead RP

practised twice on a toprope then went all out for the lead, got the wire in on lead then onto the top...awesome

Diggler 12/Sep/10 TR RP

Got it second go. Will think about the solo when the weather cools down a bit.

with andyob
DaveFidler 11/Sep/10 TR β

Amazing

d_meacher 19/Aug/10 TR RP
juza 05/Aug/10 TR dnf

One Day

with John P
Hidden ?/Jun/10 TR RP
Neil D 26/Mar/10 TR dog
BorisVBlade 26/Mar/10 TR O/S
peaches69 07/Feb/10 TR dog
with tom stenson
Hidden 17/Jan/10 Lead RP
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
andyob ??/2010 TR RP

had to work it, lots, maybe if it was alot colder and ideal friction, it would be a buzz to solo

with Diggler
Hidden 26/May/09 TR dog
tallsop 06/Apr/09 TR

not much easier than obsession.

with terry
Cailean Harker ?/Feb/09 Lead RP
CBA ?/Oct/08 -
C@rwyn 14/Sep/08 TR rpt

Definitely want to lead/solo at some point :)

with Tom
Tomprusk 14/Sep/08 TR
C@rwyn 20/Jul/08 TR O/S
with Tom
HeatherF 20/Jul/08 TR dog

friction! In rain? Not happening!

with Tom's Dad
Hidden 15/Jun/08 TR dog
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
maybe_si 28/Oct/07 TR O/S
Joe Marsh 20/Oct/07 TR β
with Nathan
Ben1983 30/Sep/07 TR β
MYSSAK 16/Sep/07 Solo RP
Hidden ?/Jul/07 TR
Hidden ??/2007 -
jamiev 14/May/06 TR dnf

on shunt

Hidden 11/Feb/06 Solo RP
eugeneth ?/Feb/06 TR
with Duncan
Hidden ?/Apr/05 TR dnf
Scottish78 05/Mar/05 Solo RP

Scariest route!!!! Tenuous moves all the way!

with Matt Kirk
Hidden ?/Feb/05 -
Smelly Fox 16/Sep/04 TR
with Slim Beam
Russell Flynn 20/Feb/04 TR O/S
Gus 23/Nov/03 Solo RP

awesome, probably harder/ more to it than obsession fatale!!

Mark Collins 26/Apr/03 TR O/S
akhughes ??/2003 TR RP
platt2000 ??/2002 2nd dog
thetourist 25/Aug/01 TR dog
Mark Riley ?/May/01 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Solo RP
Hidden 17/Aug/00 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/00 Solo RP
tlr ??/2000 TR
Hidden 08/Aug/99 TR O/S
chris sm 14/Jul/99 TR RP
with Pippa Froggatt
antroy 10/Apr/98 TR
greenroom ??/1998 Solo RP
John Mckeating ??/1997 TR dog
Hidden 09/Sep/92 TR
Hidden 06/May/90 TR
Tom V ??/1986 TR
Mark Kemball 08/Mar/83 TR
Hidden ??/1983 Solo O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andy Myers, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, DanChad, BenNorman, tchallen99, Nick Nitro, Hidden, Diggler, Hidden, Mr Powly, Mr Wild, sam8oy, Si01, Lex_2004, alaan
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 47
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set