The BMC definitive guidebook (2005) says "up the arete", so I avoided using the crack to the left - 5b and the top-out (5a) is poorly protected (you would probably deck), therefore solid E1 5b. If one uses the crack, the top-out is perhaps protected, but is still 5a with a 5-metres fall potential, therefore at least HVS 5a. Either way, VS 4b is a joke.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Yvonne, Graham R
steveb2006 - Solo - 31/May/08