Staffordshire > Hen Cloud >
 
Central Climb Direct** VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Final Crack
 
B4, XS >>
38m, 3 pitches. Not much more direct than the original. 1) 5a, 14m. Climb the wide crack that splits the face on the right awkwardly to a good stance on the regular route. 2) 4c, 14m. The flared groove, then the flake on the left, lead to a ledge. Originally the wall on the right was climbed, deviously. 3) 4a, 10m. Finish up the widening and easing crack just left. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 89 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Davidchatterton - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Neil partridge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14

jwhereat - AltLd - 09/Aug/14

Hell is a perpetual ascent of P1. The drizzle made the rest a pig to finish, I set off to lead the last pitch but backed off, Jon finished.
bendevonport - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14 with Jon Shields

Pretty grim and tough for the grade, though fair to say the rain didn't help. Hoping Ben forgives me for suggesting it, Rock Fax gives it a technical symbol - for what, the head jam!
jshields - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Ben Devonport

Hidden - 2014

Fragmod - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

Lead pitch 2.
Eddie1234 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13 with John Bish

lead 1st and 3rd pitch
John Bish - AltLd - 02/Sep/13 with Eddie Roebuck

Lead first and second pitch
HAJ Francis - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

galpinos - AltLd - 03/Jul/13 with Sam

Ardian P1 and half of P2 (I led P2 with Bikerman, years earlier). I took easiest line to top from P2.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 30/Jun/13 with Adrian Jones

Lead pitch 1 Bry lead pitch 2 to top Bitch of a thing
adrianj - AltLd - 30/Jun/13 with Bryan Lewis

chrisbussell - AltLd - 11/Jun/13 with Tim O'Neill

johnself1603 - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13

Led Pitches 1 & 2 as one, Pitch 1 was desperate and seemed a complete sandbag! Jim led pitch last pitch as per BMC guide (rockfax wrongly show it finishing as per Final Crack)
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jim

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Oct/12

ross brinson - AltLd - 01/Oct/12 with Dan Webb

I took P2. A lovely outing and a unique grit crag giving such long routes. P1 pretty tough and maybe peeping into HVS territory.
Jimbo C - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Chris, Pete

Bad idea to jump on 5a thrutch with a hangover...
Alex Thompson - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/12 with James Williamson, JonnyO

darlolad - AltLd - 23/Jul/12

p1 and p3
timmyhobby - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/12 with russ

R2B - 2nd - 05/Jul/12

Hidden - 2012

cragfox - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

wolverine - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with Bryony Wethers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11

Horrible, Horrible, Horrible! Led P1 & fell off. Had done Delstree & Bachelors left hand already & found this harder. Worth it for the L/H crack finish tho.
marcoleptic - AltLd dog - 24/Sep/11 with max

Gazleah - AltLd rpt - 18/Sep/11 with serge

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Jul/11

D J Williams - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with adnam

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Nathaelle Bouttes

keith leonard - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Oct/10

donkster - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with ben, DaveNW

slacky - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Nick Taylor

A good fight!
JRae - AltLd - 01/Aug/10 with Oli H

Lead 1st and 3rd, finished direct up an easy crack (unmarked in WG), fun and in keeping with the line
Oliver Houston - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Dec/09

Struggled to leave the ground, did central climb instead
ben comery - 2nd dnf - 17/Dec/09 with Tom D

I did the first pitch but we were moving slowly as a three so with the light fading I fell on my sword and lowered of...must go back to complete the route
Nicholas Livesey - 2nd dnf - 12/Sep/09 with Paul Palir, Rob Pontefract

tomthecoolperson - Lead RP - 02/Aug/09 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Mr Wild - Solo - 19/Jul/09

argylectu - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with littlenick

tontopink - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09

Oceanic - 30/May/09

Panda - 30/May/09

Darragh - May/09 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Gazleah - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with dave proctor/dale comley

Netgear7 - 2nd O/S - Jul/08

sarah87 - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Dan Masterman

sarah87 - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Dan Masterman

snakebite - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/08 with Sarah Secker

Hidden - 2008

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/07

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/07 with John Sargeant

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/07

trevor macalonan - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/07 with Tim

timharrison - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/07 with Trevor Macalonan

jasonpm - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Dave, Dave.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/07

Matt Shepherd - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

stevieo10 - 2nd - Jul/06 with gritrashgraham

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 2006 with Bex

Lawrence Eccles - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/05 with A. Crook

Found P1 properly brutal, but exhilarating. Led Ps 1&3.
Andy Clarke - Lead dog - 21/May/05 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/04

shona lead middle pitch
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/03 with Shona D'arcy

Hidden - 2003

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/02 with Phil West

Led pitches 2 & 3, 4b, 4a.
Iain Thow - AltLd - 29/Aug/96 with Dave Walch

Self belayed first pitch
Roget - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/92

Raggar - 2nd - 28/Jul/90 with Steve B

babymoac - Lead - 02/Feb/89 with kevin B

Nigel Bond - Lead - 06/Feb/82 with Charlie Leverton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/77 with Dave Langmead

tapley - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/69 with Derek Montford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nesbear, Nick_Merriman, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, hapymike, Tadams, Hidden, bentaylor1986, Rob Messenger

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard HVS1 of 35
HVS4 of 35
easy HVS20 of 35
hard VS4 of 35
VS4 of 35
easy VS2 of 35
hard HS0 of 35
HS0 of 35
easy HS0 of 35
hard 5b1 of 30
5b1 of 30
easy 5b3 of 30
hard 5a8 of 30
5a17 of 30
easy 5a0 of 30
hard 4c0 of 30
4c0 of 30
easy 4c0 of 30
3 Stars13 of 27
2 Stars9 of 27
1 Star3 of 27
0 Stars1 of 27
Bag of .....1 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 89 (2.2%)
Lead28 of 89 (31.5%)
Followed17 of 89 (19.1%)
Alt Leads32 of 89 (36.0%)
Unknown10 of 89 (11.2%)

'Climbed'37 of 89 (41.6%)
clean O/S39 of 89 (43.8%)
clean rpt2 of 89 (2.2%)
clean RP1 of 89 (1.1%)
dogged5 of 89 (5.6%)
dnf5 of 89 (5.6%)