Rockfax Description
18m. The steep cracks in the wall give a steep and superb pitch. Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a shallow nipple-eroding groove which requires a bit of 'udgery'. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, late 1950s 1957

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List.

Joecartmell 11/Oct TR

Bottom Roped

thrutch 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Sven
tonevert 26/Sep Lead dog

missed a foot edge so came off

with derryn, yvette
Hidden 21/Sep Lead
matt1024 19/Sep 2nd
with Mark Stevenson
ataraxiasiege 11/Sep 2nd dog
Matthew Glenn 09/Sep Lead O/S

Great climb good gear, need to get so much stronger !

Dan Geh 05/Sep 2nd O/S

HVS. Felt easier than bachelors left hand and delstree. Jams and jugs all the way.

tgeh 05/Sep Lead O/S

Amazing climb, thought the first moves off the ground are the hardest, cheeky butterfly jam to get into the off width

with dan geh
Gabe Oliver 02/Aug Lead O/S

Last route of the day; absolutely superb! Enjoyed it more than BLH

George Killaspy 02/Aug 2nd
Rollo 23/Jul Lead dog
with Ben M, jsk
benwmorgan 23/Jul 2nd β
with Rollo
jennysknight 23/Jul 2nd

Left one tiny nut for Ben

with Roly
Bernie L 11/Jul Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 11/Jul 2nd dog

Lot of dogging that weekend

with Bernie
danielroymoss 04/Jul -

beautiful route and day

Hidden 27/Jun Lead
Julesthe1st 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Robin
Robin Brooke ?/Jun -

strenuous...nice work jules

with Julian Woodward
James Oakes 26/May Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May 2nd O/S
with noaks
PeteWilson 26/Apr Lead O/S

very well protected, but steep, pumpy and very sustained, barely a move on it less than 5b, reckon its probably worth e1 for effort!

with John R, Andrew Graham
Coel Hellier 18/Apr Lead dog
jonhowson 08/Apr Lead dog

Absolutely awesome, took one rest due to massive pump. If you can jam this it'll be far easier than the laybacking I did. The laybacking is really good though! Will be back to get this clean. It's never E1.

with Chris
jonhowson 08/Apr 2nd rpt
with Pete, Chris
jonnie3430 03/Apr Lead
with Will, Henry
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
DWebs 26/Oct/14 2nd dog
switch 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with James
natalio 28/Sep/14 2nd dog

The guidebook gives it HVS, but I found all the climbs in Hen Cloud a bit hard for the grade.

with Chris B
brian watson 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
greenclimb 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt

26/31. Without clipping a wire to my harness this time. Couldn't remember the top section, grateful for Alex's beta there.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

26 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
soph 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
NickyC 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Zain Karim
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Jack93 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
charlielow 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd dog
Dingchav 19/Apr/14 Lead


dtbrad 19/Apr/14 2nd dnf
soph 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead β
Hidden ??/2014 -
msoldn 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Nadin
Hidden 20/Sep/13 TR dog
Climbster 03/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

What an awesome climb! just when you think the hard climbings done along comes the crux move into the off width! Watch the pocket its sharp!

with Matt
Alistair Corbett 22/Aug/13 2nd
with Sam hamer
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Mike Turner 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Bob Butcher, Martin Hore
R0bbie 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with leighn
Sam Simpson 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
chrisbussell 11/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
HassenBali 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf
with Chris C
WillDoyle 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Mike
vassy05 ?/Jun/13 -
Alex Winter 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this. Useful butterfly jam in the final groove.

sputnik 26/May/13 Lead O/S
pipof747 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead dog
Jonathan Hall 05/May/13 2nd
markfairbank 05/May/13 Lead dog
Hannes B 06/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mchonofsky 03/Apr/13 2nd dog
Helen Gibson 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

crux was bottom bit, the top bit is wide but is ok used a camalot 2 to protect.

with Paul
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead

Number Ten of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose

with Andy R
francois 22/Sep/12 Lead dog

Turns out jamming was required on this one.

with Chris
BelayBunney 22/Sep/12 2nd dog

Barn-doored when got out of sequence going for the flake 1/2 way up. Very annoying. Need to improve my jamming!

Thinker01 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Wow, that wasn't easy! Both seconds did me the favour of falling off which made me feel much better about the amount of time i spent trying to summon up the nerve to squirm into the groove at the top.

with Becster, Ralph Wilkinson
RFWilkie 28/Jul/12 2nd dog

Annoyed to slip off this, just very tired after too many days (8) on.

with Mark
becster 28/Jul/12 2nd
darlolad 23/Jul/12 2nd
Andy Peak 1 04/Jun/12 -
with lee mercer
stuaart 04/Jun/12 2nd


with Neil Redgrave
clipskipper 04/Jun/12 2nd β

Tough route - defeated by a lack of off-width skills, and saved by a questionable nut :-)

with Andy Gardner
Nick Russell 07/Apr/12 Lead RP

Bit of a mare: fell on the first attempt after clipping a runner directly to my harness. Didn't realise until about 1m above it, without the energy to downclimb and had to take the fall... Not a good situation. Lowered to inspect a sore ankle then finished the route from the ground

SJS 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Nick
Mike W 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 19/Feb/12 2nd
with Tom
joese7en 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Don Jebus 13/Jan/12 2nd O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
cat22 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
mark20 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Graeme Hammond 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing and a great line. Getting established in the crack to start with felt the hardest bit, then easy jamming until the wide section. Which I was expecting a horror show at from its reputation but it seemed fairly straight forward just a bit of udging and a good small wire too.

with Becky E
Curly Rich 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf

looked possible but wasn't. bailed out early.

with GMC Paul S
Jim Slater 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt
btc 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with ian lovatt
Laurence Everitt 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

wish i'd had 2 size 5 cams! this was well worth the wait!

alaan 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Katy
rob.s22 ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Old school HVS

with S.B
Rich Kirby 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Jon Read 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
Cragrat Rich 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Jams and Cams, sent straight from heaven! Followed by a kind of none-move which it is probably possible to make a drama out of unless you're careful. Lovely climbing and possibly one of the easiest E1 in the world??

Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tatz45 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PeteH 21/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Nails at HVS, but probably still HVS.

with Mike
Hidden 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 26/Sep/10 2nd dog
sam corbett 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Scary as shit not a great route to do when you haven't lead on grit for 3 months!

with Alistair Corbett
Alistair Corbett 07/Sep/10 2nd
hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
al99 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/10 2nd rpt
feilx 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Neil P
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd β
chris sm 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

tricky top off width, wobble, no gear, maybe worth taking some big cams. Top was the crux for me

Tim M 05/Jun/10 2nd
Mike Hegarty 25/May/10 Lead dog

Had to rest on gear near the start of route. Very hot day to choose to climb this one..!

with Lee
miro 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Hard and pumpy for that easy grade(hvs). But superb climb and very well protected

Pete Graham 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Pown 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
dannyboy83 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
mattyork2 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
Sankey 29/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Luke
jonka ?/Aug/09 Lead
with sean
Mr Wild 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S


Dave Rumney 18/Jul/09 Lead
with Tanya Milner
craig d 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Fox
Jim Slater 21/Jun/09 Lead dog

One fall exiting crack.

with Trevor Wilson
A Downing 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S


with Dan & Gaz
JEP 16/Jun/09 2nd
DavidEvans 23/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Mark Dennison 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
tom.ireson 15/Mar/09 Lead dnf

Alot harder than it looks! no decent rests and an absolutely heinous wide crack near the top which I could not get into at all.

with David Proctor
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
deejmonkey ??/2009 Lead
with Tom
tomparrott ??/2009 2nd
with DJ
Hidden 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd dog
dave o 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
cem 31/May/08 Lead rpt

Clean this time

with Mark O'Neill
Misha 03/May/08 Lead dog

Not a good idea after getting fairly pumped on Bachelor's Left Hand... Fell off twice - foot slipped on the bottom section and pumped out half way up! Can't ever have three stars in my book due to that horrible offwidth at the top. Good jamming practice though...

Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead rpt
sadams 09/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
noddy ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 15/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Rachel Hassall
BallsofBritishSteel 10/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Charles
shoulders 09/Sep/07 Lead
tonanf 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with burt
nige 08/Jul/07 Lead
with dave kells
juza 23/Jun/07 -
Stig 19/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Goi
DavidEvans 31/May/07 Lead O/S
tom_1985 01/May/07 Lead O/S
with Charlie T
gregoritos ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
Karl Wooffindin ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Scott Mclellan
Hidden 07/Nov/06 2nd
EAYL 30/Aug/06 2nd
with Mat J
rilem 29/Jul/06 2nd
with Ian W
AJ007 24/Jun/06 Lead dog
with Brian
dan gibson 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with karing
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Sep/05 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Lawrence Eccles 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with A. Crook
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Phil Ashton
Hidden ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ?/Nov/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
MeMeMe ?/Sep/04 Lead RP

Fell off at the start when yanking a nut to see if it was in well (and landed on ground and started again from there), so didn't exactly 'work' it, but that's the closest description!

Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd
cem 15/Jun/03 Lead dog

1 rest

with Rod Strachan
Jon Read ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S

The best HVS/E1 of Hen Cloud. Miles better than BLH.

with John H. Bull & Dave Garnett
Hidden 25/Jul/02 Lead
Gus ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
mikedelderfield 12/Jul/94 Lead
ste_d 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden 17/Jul/92 Lead
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/92 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
sadams 30/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Mark Bonham
Raggar 28/Jul/90 2nd
with Steve B
Roget 26/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim
Rob Davies ?/Jun/88 2nd
uphillnow ?/Jul/86 Lead
Ken Taylor 21/Sep/82 2nd
with Richard Toon, Andy Chadwick
Hidden 28/Aug/82 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 04/Jun/77 Lead dnf
rogerskews 04/Jun/74 -
with Paul Barrow
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 73
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set