Hen Cloud Eliminate*** E1 5b
[Jamming away on Hen Cloud Eliminate E1 5b, 2 kb]18m. The steep cracks in the wall give a steep and superb pitch. Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a shallow nipple-eroding groove which requires a bit of 'udgery'. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown, late 1950s 1957

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List.

Photo: Jamming away on Hen Cloud Eliminate E1 5b © Bloke on a Rope
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 185 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 10/Nov/14

DWebs - 2nd dog - 26/Oct/14

switch - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/14 with James

The guidebook gives it HVS, but I found all the climbs in Hen Cloud a bit hard for the grade.
natalio - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/14 with Chris B

brian watson - Lead dog - 27/Sep/14 with gary watson

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/14

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14

soph - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

26/31. Without clipping a wire to my harness this time. Couldn't remember the top section, grateful for Alex's beta there.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Alex Winter

26 on Staffordshire nose.
Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Nick

soph - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/14 with Lindy Smith

NickyC - Lead - 12/Jul/14 with Zain Karim

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14

dan gibson - 29/Jun/14 with michael porter

Jack93 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Charlie Low

charlielow - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/14 with Jack Knight

Hidden - 2nd dog - May/14

Dnf
Dingchav - Lead - 19/Apr/14 with Joe Strutt, Dan bradley

dtbrad - 2nd dnf - 19/Apr/14 with Joe 'killer' Strutt, Andy Harris

soph - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Lindy Smith

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - 2014

msoldn - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/13 with Richard Nadin

Hidden - TR dog - 20/Sep/13

Climbster - 2nd β - 03/Sep/13 with Ian

What an awesome climb! just when you think the hard climbings done along comes the crux move into the off width! Watch the pocket its sharp!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Matt

Alistair Corbett - 2nd - 22/Aug/13 with Sam hamer

andi turner - AltLd - 22/Jul/13 with pete bridgwood

Mike Turner - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Bob Butcher, Martin Hore

R0bbie - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/13 with leighn

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Anna

chrisbussell - 2nd - 11/Jun/13 with Tim O'Neill

HassenBali - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/13 with Chris C

WillDoyle - Lead dog - 09/Jun/13 with Mike

vassy05 - Jun/13

Enjoyed this. Useful butterfly jam in the final groove.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with J. Iles-Smith

sputnik - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/May/13

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Rob Middleton

markfairbank - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Calum Wadsworth

Hannes B - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with Debbie B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

mchonofsky - 2nd dog - 03/Apr/13

crux was bottom bit, the top bit is wide but is ok used a camalot 2 to protect.
Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Number Ten of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose
Brown - Lead - 22/Sep/12 with Andy R

Turns out jamming was required on this one.
francois - Lead dog - 22/Sep/12 with Chris

Barn-doored when got out of sequence going for the flake 1/2 way up. Very annoying. Need to improve my jamming!
BelayBunney - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/12 with Francois

Wow, that wasn't easy! Both seconds did me the favour of falling off which made me feel much better about the amount of time i spent trying to summon up the nerve to squirm into the groove at the top.
Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Becster, Ralph Wilkinson

Annoyed to slip off this, just very tired after too many days (8) on.
RFWilkie - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12 with Mark

becster - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Mark_Day

darlolad - 2nd - 23/Jul/12

Andy Peak 1 - 04/Jun/12 with lee mercer

Nails
stuaart - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with Neil Redgrave

Tough route - defeated by a lack of off-width skills, and saved by a questionable nut :-)
clipskipper - 2nd β - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Gardner

Bit of a mare: fell on the first attempt after clipping a runner directly to my harness. Didn't realise until about 1m above it, without the energy to downclimb and had to take the fall... Not a good situation. Lowered to inspect a sore ankle then finished the route from the ground
Nick Russell - Lead RP - 07/Apr/12 with Steve Shenton

SJS - 2nd - 07/Apr/12 with Nick

Mike W - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Hannes B - 2nd - 19/Feb/12 with Tom

joese7en - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/12

Don Jebus - 2nd O/S - 13/Jan/12 with joese7en

PAJames - 2012

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Mike

mark20 - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Mark R

Excellent climbing and a great line. Getting established in the crack to start with felt the hardest bit, then easy jamming until the wide section. Which I was expecting a horror show at from its reputation but it seemed fairly straight forward just a bit of udging and a good small wire too.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Becky E

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Sep/11

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/11 with James Oswald

btc - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with ian lovatt

wish i'd had 2 size 5 cams! this was well worth the wait!
Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with neil mackie

alaan - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Katy

Old school HVS
rob.s22 - Lead O/S - May/11 with S.B

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Ruth

Jon Read - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Brian Wyvill

Jams and Cams, sent straight from heaven! Followed by a kind of none-move which it is probably possible to make a drama out of unless you're careful. Lovely climbing and possibly one of the easiest E1 in the world??
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/11 with Katy Vose

PeteH - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/11 with Nick

Hidden - 2011

Nails at HVS, but probably still HVS.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Mike

slacky - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Nick Taylor

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd dog - 26/Sep/10

Scary as shit not a great route to do when you haven't lead on grit for 3 months!
sam corbett - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Alistair Corbett

Alistair Corbett - 2nd - 07/Sep/10 with sam corbett

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Alex Pond

al99 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Aug/10

feilx - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Neil P

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Jun/10

chris sm - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Cheesesarnie

tricky top off width, wobble, no gear, maybe worth taking some big cams. Top was the crux for me
Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Rich Wainwright

Tim M - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Chris Sims

Had to rest on gear near the start of route. Very hot day to choose to climb this one..!
Mike Hegarty - Lead dog - 25/May/10 with Lee

Hard and pumpy for that easy grade(hvs). But superb climb and very well protected
miro - Lead O/S - 16/May/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Dave Pownall

Pown - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10

Hidden - 2010

GF - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Alice

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Johnny Richard

Sankey - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/09 with Luke

jonka - Lead - Aug/09 with sean

MEGA!
Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with jon m

Dave Rumney - Lead - 18/Jul/09 with Tanya Milner

craig d - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Mick Fox

One fall exiting crack.
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 21/Jun/09 with Trevor

Fantastic!
A Downing - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Dan & Gaz

JEP - 2nd - 16/Jun/09

MONKEY78 - 2nd - 23/Apr/09 with adam ellwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09

Mark Dennison - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09

Alot harder than it looks! no decent rests and an absolutely heinous wide crack near the top which I could not get into at all.
tom.ireson - Lead dnf - 15/Mar/09 with David Proctor

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

deejmonkey - Lead - 2009 with Tom

tomparrott - 2nd - 2009 with DJ

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08

Hidden - Lead - Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/08

dave o - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Julia H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08

Clean this time
cem - Lead rpt - 31/May/08 with Mark O'Neill

Not a good idea after getting fairly pumped on Bachelor's Left Hand... Fell off twice - foot slipped on the bottom section and pumped out half way up! Can't ever have three stars in my book due to that horrible offwidth at the top. Good jamming practice though...
Misha - Lead dog - 03/May/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/08

sadams - Lead - 09/Feb/08 with Eric Hildrew

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

noddy - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

mark s - Lead - 29/Sep/07 with andi t

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/07 with Rachel Hassall

BallsofBritishSteel - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/07 with Charles

shoulders - Lead - 09/Sep/07

tonanf - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/07 with burt

nige - Lead - 08/Jul/07 with dave kells

juza - 23/Jun/07 with Garry Farrar

Stig - Lead dog - 19/Jun/07 with Goi

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 31/May/07 with adam ellwood

tom_1985 - Lead O/S - 01/May/07 with Charlie T

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 04/Feb/07

Karl Wooffindin - 2nd O/S - 2007 with Scott Mclellan

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Nov/06

EAYL - 2nd - 30/Aug/06 with Mat J

rilem - 2nd - 29/Jul/06 with Ian W

AJ007 - Lead dog - 24/Jun/06 with Brian

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/06 with karing

Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with keith leonard

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 24/Sep/05 with Eric Hildrew

Lawrence Eccles - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/05 with A. Crook

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Vicky Munn

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

mark s - 2005

nickdonohue - Lead - Nov/04 with Jim Barradale

Fell off at the start when yanking a nut to see if it was in well (and landed on ground and started again from there), so didn't exactly 'work' it, but that's the closest description!
MeMeMe - Lead RP - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/03

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/03

1 rest
cem - Lead dog - 15/Jun/03 with Rod Strachan

The best HVS/E1 of Hen Cloud. Miles better than BLH.
Jon Read - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with John H. Bull & Dave Garnett

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/02

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - Sep/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/97

Marti999 - Lead - 1995

mikedelderfield - Lead - 12/Jul/94 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/94 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/92

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 20/Jun/92 with Pete Finklaire

sadams - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/90 with Mark Bonham

Raggar - 2nd - 28/Jul/90 with Steve B

Roget - Lead O/S - 26/May/90 with jim

David Smith - Lead - Jul/86

Ken Taylor - 2nd - 21/Sep/82 with Richard Toon, Andy Chadwick

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/82

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/81

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/77

rogerskews - 04/Jun/74 with Paul Barrow

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumbtaylor, strudles, mapperley samurai, SuperLee1985, kim.mulji, Jordanh031, Gary Coggon, gavinpeach, gw3285, bigmrp, mfoster8180, Ragnaar, Alan100, PanzerHanzler, bavarianGaz, Shauna, dja, dfbpdave, jak.kelly, tatz45

Voting
Total votes cast 188
hard E20 of 65
E20 of 65
easy E20 of 65
hard E12 of 65
E138 of 65
easy E18 of 65
hard HVS17 of 65
HVS0 of 65
easy HVS0 of 65
hard 5c0 of 64
5c0 of 64
easy 5c0 of 64
hard 5b4 of 64
5b55 of 64
easy 5b4 of 64
hard 5a1 of 64
5a0 of 64
easy 5a0 of 64
3 Stars42 of 59
2 Stars13 of 59
1 Star2 of 59
0 Stars1 of 59
Bag of .....1 of 59
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf