20m. Indirect but great climbing all the way. Start up House Burning Down. Do a hard move to the incut holds and half rest on the rail out right. Make another hard move at the fifth bolt of HBD to stand on the rail. Thin technical moves allow you to shuffle your feet in a traverse left along the rail to a big step onto the cracked rail of Sing a Mean Toon, Kid. Finish up the slappy crux of SAMTK. In need of another bolt to protect the traverse left into SAMTK: clipping the fifth bolt of HBD will create rope drag problems and won’t protect the traverse. Better to ignore the fifth bolt and prep the route by hanging a long quickdraw off a 120 cm sling from the only independent bolt of Burning Ambition (up from and slightly left of the sixth bolt of HBD): this will be effective in protecting the traverse while avoiding rope drag.

Ally Smith 2006

Wise 06/Jul Lead RP

Lovely morning session before work. Nice route. Went down pretty easily on first session after learning the moves for Directoma. Soft for the grade.

with Matt
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Aug/15 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
jackgriffiths ??/2015 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 10/Sep/14 Lead RP
DorsetGareth 22/Aug/14 Lead RP

Took two full sessions having already done SAMTK. Quite hard to save enough for the crux.

LucasHarazin 07/Aug/14 Lead dog
LucasHarazin 17/Jul/14 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 16/Jul/14 TR dnf

Linked together the independent climbing.

LucasHarazin 13/Jul/14 Lead dog
eddieclimb 08/Jul/14 Lead RP

Second session, about 4th rp , really pleased to send. Found a sneaky rest before SMTK crux which made the difference...

gazhbo 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
Tomar 23/May/14 Lead RP
with Toby
pezzerrr 11/May/14 Lead RP
anthony henry 04/May/14 Lead RP

Really nice climb. Delicate moves traversing left, then a slappy finish.

with Chris
anthony henry 30/Apr/14 Lead dog

Feels okay. Just putting it all together now..

Tomar 15/Apr/14 Lead dog

Psyched! Very doable and the SAMTK crux feels a lot easier now

with Gazy
ericinbristol 11/May/12 Lead RP

Repeat. First try.

with Ali
ericinbristol 05/May/12 Lead RP

Awesome route. My first 7c+.

with Ross A
Hidden 17/Aug/10 Lead RP
James Marshall ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Oct/06 Lead RP
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent