Rockfax Description
A smart line. Start on the ledges just left of the gearing-up block.
Climb the fingery brown wall to the break and finish up the black streak above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The black streak to the left of Brean topping, starting as for that route.

Dave Pickford 2010

Ticklists: The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, West Country projects, South West 8's, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20.


ClimberDateStyle
Matt Cooke 23/Apr Lead RP
with Dave, Sam Taylor
yan hawkins 25/Mar Lead RP
with ron
Billg 12/Mar Lead RP

2 nice sections seperared by a massive rest. 7c / soft 7c+? Would be a different ball game if the holds on the pillar were missed out.

with Will Calvert
_m.cox_ 30/Jan Lead dog

Should have done this, I blame the cold!

with remus
derico 28/Nov/15 Lead RP

Well happy to beat todays rain and get an 8a in at the end of the year. Feels like a v3 into a v6 then easy climbing to a v5 to me. So easy for 8a, but harder than 7c+'s I've done. Obviously much easier if you are shorter and can do the right leg rock over move on lower crux ;)

with Tommy S, Mat Cook, Jonny
thomasmouse 02/Aug/15 Lead dog
Wendy 31/May/15 Lead RP

Soft

with Tom Ball
peaches69 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with luke
Hidden 28/Mar/15 Lead RP
El3ctroFuzz ?/Mar/15 Lead RP

Awesome top moves, proper soft. Soft 7c+?

Hidden 31/Jan/15 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead RP
Ged Desforges ??/2015 -

Cool Boulder problem, 7c+

Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead RP
PeterDawson 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

Did this with a load of draws as a bit of weight training!

Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead dog
chrisscutt 01/Nov/14 Lead RP

Happy to get my first 8a even if it was a tad soft. Nice boulder problem at the top

with Steph
brices 20/Sep/14 Lead RP

Much easier when the holds are dry.

with Llinos
James Marshall 12/Aug/14 Lead RP

Good sequence, the holds felt massive after Brean Topping ! (7c/+)

with Tom Ball
Justin T 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

Rested on jug (total contrivance not to IMHO), soft 7c+?

with Nancy
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dog
JM 30/Mar/14 Lead RP

Easy 7c+ if you rest on the jug like I did.

with Stevo
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 19/Jan/14 TR dnf

Second half utterly soaking. Played on first half.

Luke Dawson 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

2nd try

tom106 25/Nov/13 Lead RP

cold fingers but fun bouldery crux. soft.

with alessio, Joe i
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead RP
Jack_F 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

Really good condition today felt good!

adam cooper*super* 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd go, nearly flashed. good!

Ramon Marin 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Great route, did it today in a day, but I've done the bottom half a bunch of times, still, almost fell off the bottom part on my sent. I use different beta than everyone elses, which made it feel more like 7c+ than 8a.

with viki harvey
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Apr/13 Lead RP

First redpoint, quite cool route actually.

with JackMac
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead RP
brices 13/Mar/13 Lead dog

pinged off the top crimp a few times loosing body tension

brices 03/Mar/13 Lead dog

Linked crux today no skin for send though

with Tomar
guy xavier percival 28/Feb/13 Lead RP
with gordon
simonr 23/Feb/13 Lead dog

So cold that fingers were completely numb before the break. Was fine in two sections though - will be back.

with Eleri, Sam Clarke
Hidden 09/Feb/13 Lead dog
cross ??/2013 -
brices 08/Dec/12 Lead dog

all moves done fell off at end of crux 2nd go. next time

with Tomar
Hidden ?/Nov/12 Lead RP
Tris.w 30/Oct/12 Lead RP

1st 8a, harder than other 7c+'s I've done but not by much

with Laurent
Cassidy 14/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with Rich Emerson
dan gibson 19/Jun/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
peaches69 31/May/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint 2day, felt ok with cooler conditions, 7c+

with connor
peaches69 27/May/12 TR dog

2nd session, done in 2 overlapping sections. bottom to crux, break to top

with connor
Hidden 15/Apr/12 TR dnf
Jon_Warner 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Pretty cool but short-lived. Sequence didn't seem obvious.

with Jenni
pezzerrr 21/Mar/12 Lead RP
Gavinsymonds 01/Mar/12 -

more 7c+ than 8a

quiffhanger 15/Jan/12 Lead RP

Took a while. Avoided the massive ledge for hands-possibly 8a this way: need to do a few more to be sure! Def the hardest route I've done @ Brean to date.

westyb3 04/Dec/11 Lead RP

A tad soft,

with Heather Ogston
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/11 Lead RP

Climbed second go. Very soft for 8a.

Kev Little ??/2010 Lead RP
gazhbo ?/Nov/09 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
josh baldwin, Josh Lewis, Hidden, Hidden, chakrit, Luuuuuke, marcduhig, Hidden, Tomar
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set