Rockfax Description
An enjoyable and busy route which allows an ascent of the south face at an amenable grade. Well-equipped at the stances. Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61.
1) III+, 45m. Climb easily up blocky rock in, and just right of, the gully to a stance on the right, or go right to the grassy ledge.
2) IV, 35m. From the grassy ledge and climb a vertical crack. Step right again to a subsequent crack and belay below a cracked chimney.
3) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney, moving onto its left side, before traversing left for a few metres to a stance below a slanting corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb a cracked slab direct to a ledge below a roof.
5) IV, 40m. Continue in the same line up the corner-crack, keeping right of the roof, then continue up the sustained continuation corner to a ledge on the left.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left, climb a short corner then continue left over ledges to a stance below a steep grey corner.
7) IV, 40m. Don't climb the corner but make a rising traverse right over slabs to a stance in a small niche below a chimney-crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous, then follow the easier chimney above to reach the ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
to the left of Grosse Micheluzzi and to the right of Soldà /S-Verschneidung
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
lewis.m | 30 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led all pitches. Definitely got a bit lost on the first 3 pitches. Final 4 pitches are great. Crux felt stiff. Could be IV+? Had to stand on smeatos head to get established in the final chimney... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Led all pitches. Definitely got a bit lost on the first 3 pitches. Final 4 pitches are great. Crux felt stiff. Could be IV+? Had to stand on smeatos head to get established in the final chimney... |
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Grade: IV ***
(Monte Popena Basso)