|250m, 9 pitches. An enjoyable and busy route which allows an ascent of the south face at an amenable grade. Well-equipped at the stances. |
Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61.
1) III+, 45m. Climb easily up blocky rock in, and just right of, the gully to a stance on the right.
2) IV, 35m. Traverse right to a grassy ledge and climb a vertical crack. Step right again to a subsequent crack and belay below a cracked chimney.
3) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney, moving onto its left side, before traversing left for a few metres to a stance below a slanting corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb a cracked slab direct to a ledge below a roof.
5) IV, 40m. Continue in the same line up the corner-crack, keeping right of the roof, then continue up the sustained continuation corner to a ledge on the left.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left, climb a short corner then continue left over ledges to a stance below a steep grey corner.
7) IV, 40m. Don't climb the corner but make a rising traverse right over slabs to a stance in a small niche below a chimney-crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous, then follow the easier chimney above to reach the ledge. © ROCKFAX
to the left of Grosse Micheluzzi and to the right of Soldà/S-Verschneidung