An enjoyable and busy route which allows an ascent of the south face at an amenable grade. Well-equipped at the stances.
Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61.
1) III+, 45m. Climb easily up blocky rock in, and just right of, the gully to a stance on the right.
2) IV, 35m. Traverse right to a grassy ledge and climb a vertical crack. Step right again to a subsequent crack and belay below a cracked chimney.
3) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney, moving onto its left side, before traversing left for a few metres to a stance below a slanting corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb a cracked slab direct to a ledge below a roof.
5) IV, 40m. Continue in the same line up the corner-crack, keeping right of the roof, then continue up the sustained continuation corner to a ledge on the left.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left, climb a short corner then continue left over ledges to a stance below a steep grey corner.
7) IV, 40m. Don't climb the corner but make a rising traverse right over slabs to a stance in a small niche below a chimney-crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous, then follow the easier chimney above to reach the ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
to the left of Grosse Micheluzzi and to the right of Soldą/S-Verschneidung
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
With Henry Gent. Quite cheeky for grade IV. In shade all day so very cold.
Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
Superb juggy corner pitch. Easy route finding, good gear and mostly stable rock. Fiona managed to wedge herself into the exit chimney!
|Fiona Reid||17/Jul/14||AltLd O/S||
Soloed half way up pitch 1. Led most of 2 (it's probably best to belay at the end of the rightwards traverse else the rope drag gets unpleasant), 3, 5 plus 10m of 6, 7 and 9. Found the final pitch quite spicy and decided that wedging myself in the chimney was a good idea. Good route, not much loose rock and relatively straightforward route finding.
Enjoyable route with a fine long steep juggy corner pitch and good rising traverse after.
steve wells, martina
The crux pitch is fab. No probs to find a hand / foot hold on this route!
Lead it all! Better route than Little Micheluzzi
Helen C (LMC), James Pearson
Pretty average and very busy. What out for chummers knocking rocks onto you.
|The Ivanator||26/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
Bit of a traffic jam that lessened the satisfaction somewhat, good crux pitch, but some scrappy climbing lower down.
|Alessandro Tentori||?/Aug/10||2nd O/S||
1 x Student, Tarquin