22m.
On the left side of The Great Slab is a leaf-shaped pod. Climb the pod and short crack above to gain ledges (crux). Climb diagonally rightwards (easier but bolder) on slabby rock, keeping right of the wide chimney/crack, and step right to a sapling and double bolt belay just up and right. The climb can be finished just above the crux - use the twin peg lower-off of Staple Diet.
B Mullan, M S Davies 01/Feb/2010.
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But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulJepson | 15 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The pegs in the loweroff after the crux are actually pretty corroded but it's backed up with a good in-situ nut. The top half of the route is in pretty poor condition as of 14/07/21. Covered in ivy and bramble, and poor, dusty rock. Wouldn't particularly recommend continuing up, though the swing over to the tree/bolts was exciting. There is a real collection of death blocks in the top half (some just resting on ledges), so be really careful what you pull on. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The pegs in the loweroff after the crux are actually pretty corroded but it's backed up with a good in-situ nut. The top half of the route is in pretty poor condition as of 14/07/21. Covered in ivy and bramble, and poor, dusty rock. Wouldn't particularly recommend continuing up, though the swing over to the tree/bolts was exciting. There is a real collection of death blocks in the top half (some just resting on ledges), so be really careful what you pull on. |
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Route of Interest
No Musketeers
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)