UKC

65m, 2 pitches. Good slab climbing throughout but bolder now with the loss of the old peg which has not been replaced. Start about 20m down from the start of Silent Spring near the lower right-hand end of the grassy ramp and directly below a large rather lichenous slab.
1. 30m Move up right, gain the slab and move easily up its left edge to a steep section. Climb the steep delicate slab above (crux) to reach narrow ledges and the site of the missing protection peg above. Make a slightly descending traverse left for 5m to a foot-ledge. Climb the slab above to a good crack and move diagonally left to a small grass ledge below a short corner. Belay as for Conscript
2. 20m Move right and into a steep corner. Climb the corner and pull out right to small ledges. Move back across the top of the corner and follow a left-trending crack (delicate and exposed) to a good ledge. Traverse further left for 4m and climb a juggy arĂȘte to two small trees (possible belay). Continue up to a large grassy platform and tree belay.
3. 15m Climb easily up a slab, bearing slightly right. Finish up a vegetated groove (as for Silent Spring)

K. Higgs, S.R. Young 08/Jul/1979.

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Route of Interest
Dance Of The Tumblers

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Luggala)

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