USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
Rockfax Description
A long crack-line in an impressive, smooth-looking wall. Well-protected with biggish nuts and cams. Start at a semi-hanging stance on a small ledge 2m below where the crack begins. Gain the base of the crack (a quick pull on the abseil rope might be needed if the rock is damp) and climb the crack all the way back to the top, taking care with loose ground on the finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is a small ledge just 2 metres below the start of the crack so a hanging belay isn't needed. A 50 rope reaches this from the stakes. If dry the moves off the ledge to start the crack are consistent with the grade for the rest of the route.
West Country Climbs , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Cligga Head)