Rockfax Description
This classic long route combines routes on the Central and Upper Walls to give 12 pitches of bolted climbing running the full height of the face. The climbing is relatively straightforward with one 6b pitch. Other guides give the top pitch 6b+ but it isn't that hard and can easily be aided if you are struggling. Moving fast will take around 5 to 6 hours for the round trip. The first section is Le plaisir du geste - the left-hand line on the lowest face.
1) 6a, 2) 5c, 3) 5c. There are easier options to the right.
Walk across the ledge to the central tier where there is a choice of five routes. Jeanne starts slightly to the left.
4) 6a+. A super pitch up perfect rock. Belay by a bush.
5) 6a. Climb straight up from the belay (the line up and left of the belay is worth 6b+).
6) 5c. Easy climbing up the ridge.
The final route, Anaïs, tackles the magnificent upper wall of La Pelle via a corner and then the arete. Start by walking easily leftwards until you are below the upper corner.
7) 5c. A scrappy pitch up the corner.
8) 6a. Struggle up the wide corner above - tiring!
9) 5a. Easy climbing leads up the ridge.
10) 5a. More straightforward climbing to a small stance.
11) 6b. Great climbing in a stunning position. There is an uncomfortable exposed belay after the crux pull but you are best advised to push on to the top (5+) in a 35m pitch.
Abseil descent - The belays are well bolted for abseil and this is advised. You can walk off around Sector GR 4b+ for the lower section.
Walk descent - Cross over onto the north side and descend until it is possible to traverse out right to reach an interminable scree slope. Scree-ski down this to a large cairn then head slightly right (don't turn sharp right since this will take you to the top of Le Pubis) and descend the slope (red spots) to the cliff edge. Slings on a tree are used for the first of four abseils that lead back to a diagonal descent to rejoin the approach route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Three easy pitches on the lower wall then 4) 6a+, 5) 6a (amazing), 6) 5, walk left, 7) 5, 8) 6a+, 9) 5, 10) 5, 11) 6a+ (given 6b+ elsewhere and 6a+ with an aid point), 12) 5 (run this together with pitch 10 to avoid the nasty hanging belay).
Pitches 4) and 5) on the middle tier are superb although there is now a left-hand variation to pitch 6) which is 6b+ and easy to follow by mistake. Top crux is very over-graded and only worth 6a+ really with no aid point.

Ticklists

Ariege easy multipitch , Big Pitches 4 Buff Boyz

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