|400m, 12 pitches. |
A brilliant combination of three routes. The first section is Le plaisir du geste - the left-hand line on the lowest face.
1) 6a, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. There are easier options to the right - see next page.
Walk across the ledge to the central tier where there is a choice of five routes. Jeanne starts slightly to the left.
4) 6a+. A super pitch up perfect rock. Belay by a bush.
5) 6a. Climb straight up from the belay (the line up and left of the belay is worth 6b+).
6) 5+. Easy climbing up the ridge.
The final route, Anaïs, tackles the magnificent upper wall of La Pelle via a corner and then the arete. Start by walking easily leftwards until you are below the upper corner.
7) 5+. A scrappy pitch up the corner.
8) 6a. Struggle up the wide corner above - tiring!
9) 5. Easy climbing leads up the ridge.
10) 5. More straightforward climbing to a small stance.
11) 6b. Great climbing in a stunning position. There is an uncomfortable exposed belay after the crux pull but you are best advised to push on to the top (5+) in a 35m pitch.
Descent - See opposite. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Three easy pitches on the lower wall then 4) 6a+, 5) 6a (amazing), 6) 5, walk left, 7) 5, 8) 6a+, 9) 5, 10) 5, 11) 6a+ (given 6b+ elsewhere and 6a+ with an aid point), 12) 5 (run this together with pitch 10 to avoid the nasty hanging belay).
Pitches 4) and 5) on the middle tier are superb although there is now a left-hand variation to pitch 6) which is 6b+ and easy to follow by mistake. Top crux is very over-graded and only worth 6a+ really with no aid point.