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L'Intégrale d'Anaïs*** 6b+

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400m, 12 pitches. A brilliant combination of three routes. The first section is Le plaisir du geste - the left-hand line on the lowest face. 1) 6a, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. There are easier options to the right - see next page. Walk across the ledge to the central tier where there is a choice of five routes. Jeanne starts slightly to the left. 4) 6a+. A super pitch up perfect rock. Belay by a bush. 5) 6a. Climb straight up from the belay (the line up and left of the belay is worth 6b+). 6) 5+. Easy climbing up the ridge. The final route, Anaïs, tackles the magnificent upper wall of La Pelle via a corner and then the arete. Start by walking easily leftwards until you are below the upper corner. 7) 5+. A scrappy pitch up the corner. 8) 6a. Struggle up the wide corner above - tiring! 9) 5. Easy climbing leads up the ridge. 10) 5. More straightforward climbing to a small stance. 11) 6b. Great climbing in a stunning position. There is an uncomfortable exposed belay after the crux pull but you are best advised to push on to the top (5+) in a 35m pitch. Descent - See opposite. © ROCKFAX
Three easy pitches on the lower wall then 4) 6a+, 5) 6a (amazing), 6) 5, walk left, 7) 5, 8) 6a+, 9) 5, 10) 5, 11) 6a+ (given 6b+ elsewhere and 6a+ with an aid point), 12) 5 (run this together with pitch 10 to avoid the nasty hanging belay). Pitches 4) and 5) on the middle tier are superb although there is now a left-hand variation to pitch 6) which is 6b+ and easy to follow by mistake. Top crux is very over-graded and only worth 6a+ really with no aid point.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/13

Great way to climb this huge face, but slightly disjointed climbing. The supposed top crux pitch is about 6a+ and there are harder moves lower down.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 16/May/12 with Jack Geldard

Led and seconded all the pitches clean. Ian one point of aid leading pitch 5.
Tez29 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Ian

L’integral de Anais 400mts (12 pitches) Plaisir du Geste: GR4B+ (4b-4c-4c) Jeanne (6a+ -6a - 5c) Anais (5c – 6a – 5b+ - 5b – 6b+ (or 6a+/A0) – 5c+)
mtorre - 2nd - Aug/10

A brilliant 12 pitch sport route completed in a leisurely (ie slow) 7 hours followed by a descent down scree and 4 abseils.
Graham Iles - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Neil Cooper

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexurrutiarod, Hidden

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