A super little route which is quite tricky for the short. The climbing is delicate and exposed but never quite as serious as it feels. Climb to the flake and lace it, and the break, with wires. Make a tricky step up to stand on the holds on the flake, commit to some slopers and reach the upper groove. Finish more easily to a single-bolt lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is now a good double bolt lower off.
FA. Chris Jackson, Dave Sant, Rod Haslam 1976. Given HVS originally because Chris didn't think he was good enough to lead extreme. The grade stuck for 13 years!
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Brian Rodgers||29/Jul||Lead O/S|
Couldn't figure it at all on the lead. Still hard after watching Misha lead it. So polished - ended up in the bushes on 1st attempt. Topped out 23.00 ish. Not a great evening for me, but considering the downpour good going.
On Phil's gear to the flake. At the end of an evening session, racing against encroaching darkness - lowered off at 10.15pm, then Phil top roped by head torch! Tricky technical 5c sequence getting stood up in the break at the top of the flake - took a while to figure it out. Worrying moves up the slab above, fortunately half decent handholds soon materialise but still some 5c there as the footholds are poor. E1ish from the gear in the small groove. Good route.
Been wanting to do that for over 20 years! Thoroughly enjoyable
|Hannes B||01/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
|Stoney Boy||11/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
Great route despite the cobwebs from lack of traffic!
|John Cooper||29/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
Underestimated this at the end of a day's climbing and made a poor effort on the first attempt. Pulled the ropes and went OK 2nd go.
|dominic lee||08/Jul/10||Lead rpt|
|Toby Dunn||09/May/09||Lead O/S||
|Matt Fry||29/Mar/09||Lead O/S|
|andy gravestock||06/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
good e3 it gets your heart pumping nice climbing.
|Alex Mason||05/Mar/08||Lead O/S||
Quite thin and scary for bottom end E3, but very satisfying.
Alex Barrows and Ed Booth
|Ed Booth||05/Mar/08||Lead β||
Had Cragdog Al's gear already in but moved some around to make it feel like i was putting it in ha! NIce route.
Had a go after Mark fell off but with cold fingers and no enthusiasm. Reversed the crux and stripped the gear
|Dave Bond||29/Aug/05||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||09/Jun/91||Lead O/S||
|Stoney Boy||?/Mar/87||Lead O/S|
|Mike Owen||14/Oct/83||Lead O/S||
Bill McKee, Dave Abbey
|Ian Jones||??/1979||2nd O/S||
The great Mark Stokes