Behemoth*** E5 6b

Rockfax Description
The finest route in WCJ has a hard start. Once past this, the route follows a superb, sustained finger and hand crack. Climb left of a lower crack to a bulge (peg). Pull through with difficulty to the ledge above then head up the wall to gain the crack. Thrash up this (off-fingers and small cams ), the hanging corner is your target; make it that far and you're home. © ROCKFAX

FFA. Ron Fawcett, Pete Livesey 1976. Climbed during a purple-patch in the mid-70s, racing Proctor, Birtles and Marshall to the first ascent who had done it previously with one rest point. FAA. Paul Nunn, Brian Barlow, Barry Ingle 1960. FA. (Direct Start,

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

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This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

A good route. Led entirely on Dave and Ben's gear after DT's rematch ended at the crack. Crack ok if you can hang in there.
Adam Long - Lead β - 16/Aug/15 with Dave Turnbull, Ben Bransby

Much frigging occurred. Fell off lower crux a few times before pulling on peg. Then found top crack well hard, especially whilst taking kit out. Hard E5 with hard 6b moves over initial bulge and hard sustained 6a(?) up the crack? Jeez Louise!
Duncan Campbell - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/14 with Mason

Ground up. Dropped crux grabbing a slimy leaf in the pocket by the peg. Cleared it out and got it next go. Top crack is awesome, doesn't take very good cams but the wires are sinker.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 16/Sep/14 with Duncan Campbell

Good climbing especially the upper crack. This route was adequately protected by leader placed protection with no reliance on any insitu pegs at all. Returned for the lead and made it all the way to easy ground in the top groove where I discovered it was wet. I fell a long way.
Brown - 2nd rpt - 29/Jul/14 with Andy R

edinbed - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Made it to within 4ft of the hanging corner 1st go then slipped out.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead dog - 19/May/10 with Elfyn Jones

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/09

Hidden - Aug/09

Very nearly made it to top of crack this time. very greasy suspect doesn't get too many ascents
sadams - Lead dog - Jun/03 with Tom Briggs

sadams - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/96 with Hugh Cottom

Stoney Boy - Lead RP - 06/Jul/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/92

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Aug/92

keefe - 12/Oct/91

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/90

shark - Lead - 1988

Mike Owen - 29/Sep/86 with Ian McMullan

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/84

Mark Kemball - Lead - 04/Aug/83 with Paul Clark

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/82

steve L - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/82 with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson

Hidden - 2nd - May/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Dan Lane, Boy

Total votes cast 32
hard E60 of 11
E60 of 11
easy E60 of 11
hard E55 of 11
E55 of 11
easy E51 of 11
hard E40 of 11
E40 of 11
easy E40 of 11
hard 6c0 of 11
6c0 of 11
easy 6c0 of 11
hard 6b2 of 11
6b3 of 11
easy 6b1 of 11
hard 6a5 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
3 Stars8 of 10
2 Stars2 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP