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The Direct Route VD

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[Mr Hill showing us how on The Direct Route, Dovestones Edge, 2 kb]12m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall on flakes, some of which are a bit creaky. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Mr Hill showing us how on The Direct Route, Dovestones Edge © BaildonBanker
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Just Another Dave - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/13

rockman - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Tim Edwards

timcedwards - 2nd - 14/Aug/13 with Geoff Mee

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Jul/13

Simonj - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Dan

jscoles - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Danielle German

Dan German - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

BikeClimbWalk - 2nd - 28/Feb/13

karpet - 2nd - 28/Feb/13

nicoleh - 2nd - 01/Jun/12

eltax2005 - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

samsimpson - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/11 with John Newbiggin

John Newbiggin - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/11

The flakes seemed pretty sound to me - but I wouldn't put a cam behind any of them. Or a nut, for that matter. Probably best to solo it carefully but it's rather satisfying.
steveth - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Jon Bray, Chris Roberts

Jayzen - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Ashley

1poundSOCKS - Lead β - 04/Jun/11

BaildonBanker - Lead β - 04/Jun/11 with thestonehugger

p_won - Lead - May/11 with johnny walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/10

Rog Wilko - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with Debbie Wilkinson

cezza - 2nd - 09/Jul/10

1st V Diff lead
stratandrew - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

Climbed as a three with Duncan. Nice route.
heidavey - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Susi

red.stiletto - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with heidavey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09

Sianny - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09

DerwentDiluted - Solo - 31/Jul/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 28/Jun/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/09

very wet and horrid
plastichead - 2nd O/S - 15/May/09 with Max

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 26/Apr/09

Beautiful flake climbing.
davidbeynon - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Fhyndoh, Dan Walker

john lynch - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with mike lynch

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/08

fhyndoh - 24/May/08 with Dan Walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

compsci - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Hattie Pickup

ste_d - Solo O/S - 07/May/08

Hidden - 26/Aug/07

pbrack - 2nd - 24/Aug/07 with Andrew Wood, Kay Harker

Matthallinan - Solo - Jul/07 with Nicky Winn

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/07

alj - 2nd - 26/May/07 with CJD

Matt - BodyPoint - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Andrew Wood

Theeni - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Will Perry, Matt Dalby

A little un-nerving. Protection isnt great, and is by no means trust worthy as the description hints. If you plan on doing this make sure there is no possibility you could fall. Much of my protection would have had a high chance of ripping a huge flake or two off, get your belayer to be attentive and out of the way! Alot of loose grit on this route and it sees to be a wind trap, spent ages trying to lower the rope for the 3rd and 4th. Apart from that a quite nice route, flakes are very juggy, and there is no hard moves, only a VDiff rather than a Diff because of the protection presumibly. Care required.
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Dad, Neil, Matt, Alex and Katie

hartke - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with reaver2k

dread-i - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with dave m.

lithos - Solo - 13/Jul/05

Simon Caldwell - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/04

adi bryant - Lead - Apr/03 with Tim

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 09/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/91

Tom V - Solo - Apr/66

Voting
Total votes cast 14
hard HVD0 of 8
HVD0 of 8
easy HVD0 of 8
hard VD0 of 8
VD3 of 8
easy VD3 of 8
hard HD0 of 8
HD1 of 8
easy HD1 of 8
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star4 of 6
0 Stars2 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Soloed16 of 59 (27.1%)
Lead24 of 59 (40.7%)
Followed16 of 59 (27.1%)
Alt Leads1 of 59 (1.7%)
Unknown2 of 59 (3.4%)

'Climbed'21 of 59 (35.6%)
clean O/S32 of 59 (54.2%)
clean β2 of 59 (3.4%)
clean rpt4 of 59 (6.8%)