The Direct Route VD
[Mr Hill showing us how on The Direct Route, Dovestones Edge, 2 kb]12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall on flakes, some of which are a bit creaky. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Mr Hill showing us how on The Direct Route, Dovestones Edge © BaildonBanker
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This climb is in 63 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

BTphonehome - Solo O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Kasha

Brown - Solo - 27/May/15 with Stu

JdotP - Solo O/S - 18/May/14

Just Another Dave - Solo O/S - 26/Aug/13

rockman - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Tim Edwards

timcedwards - 2nd - 14/Aug/13 with Geoff Mee

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Jul/13

Simonj - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Dan

jscoles - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Danielle German

Dan German - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

BikeClimbWalk - 2nd - 28/Feb/13

karpet - 2nd - 28/Feb/13 with Dave Ashby, Oli Gregory

nicoleh - 2nd - 01/Jun/12

eltax2005 - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

Sam Simpson - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/11 with John Newbiggin

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/11

The flakes seemed pretty sound to me - but I wouldn't put a cam behind any of them. Or a nut, for that matter. Probably best to solo it carefully but it's rather satisfying.
steveth - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Jon Bray, Chris Roberts

Jayzen - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Ashley

1poundSOCKS - Lead β - 04/Jun/11

BaildonBanker - Lead β - 04/Jun/11 with thestonehugger

p_won - Lead - May/11 with johnny walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/10

Rog Wilko - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with Debbie Wilkinson

cezza - 2nd - 09/Jul/10

1st V Diff lead
stratandrew - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

Climbed as a three with Duncan. Nice route.
heidavey - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Susi

red.stiletto - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with heidavey

WillCass - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09

Sianny - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/09

WillCass - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Si

DerwentDiluted - Solo - 31/Jul/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 28/Jun/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/09

very wet and horrid
plastichead - 2nd O/S - 15/May/09 with Max

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 26/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09

john lynch - 2nd - 04/Jul/08 with mike lynch

tanssop - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/08 with Sean

fhyndoh - 24/May/08 with Dan Walker

tanssop - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Julie

compsci - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Hattie Pickup

ste_d - Solo O/S - 07/May/08

Hidden - 26/Aug/07

pbrack - 2nd - 24/Aug/07 with Andrew Wood, Kay Harker

Matthallinan - Solo - Jul/07 with Nicky Winn

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/07

alj - 2nd - 26/May/07 with CJD

Matt - BodyPoint - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Andrew Wood

Theeni - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Will Perry, Matt Dalby

A little un-nerving. Protection isnt great, and is by no means trust worthy as the description hints. If you plan on doing this make sure there is no possibility you could fall. Much of my protection would have had a high chance of ripping a huge flake or two off, get your belayer to be attentive and out of the way! Alot of loose grit on this route and it sees to be a wind trap, spent ages trying to lower the rope for the 3rd and 4th. Apart from that a quite nice route, flakes are very juggy, and there is no hard moves, only a VDiff rather than a Diff because of the protection presumibly. Care required.
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Dad, Neil, Matt, Alex and Katie

hartke - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with reaver2k

dread-i - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with dave m.

lithos - Solo - 13/Jul/05

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/04

Simon Caldwell - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/04

adi bryant - Lead - Apr/03 with Tim

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 09/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/91

Tom V - Solo - Apr/66

Total votes cast 17
hard HVD0 of 10
HVD1 of 10
easy HVD0 of 10
hard VD0 of 10
VD4 of 10
easy VD3 of 10
hard HD0 of 10
HD1 of 10
easy HD1 of 10
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
1 Star4 of 7
0 Stars3 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S
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Clean repeat