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Mercury*** E2 5b

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[Mercury Direct (E2 5B) - pitch 2, 3 kb]The arching corner is a magnificent line and is climbed in two very long and sustained pitches. Some big cams and nuts are needed to protect the first pitch. Start at the base of the corner.. 1) 5a, 42m. Ascend the corner until it starts to steepen and widen. Climb the wide crack to a flake from where easier climbing gains a big ledge on the left and a belay.. 2) 5b, 50m. Climb the corner and its subsidiary to its end. Traverse right across the slab on small holds stepping down at a steepening to a pillar of compact red rock and better holds. Move up to small ledges (the site of an old belay) and continue for 5m before stepping right to a weakness in the overhang above. Climb up this and the easy groove above to the top.. 2a) 4c, 50m. An easier but poorer finish moves left around the arete from the belay ledge and then climbs up the wall above the edge of the arete on big, but at times dubious, holds to a grassy final 10m. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Mercury Direct (E2 5B) - pitch 2 © Kafoozalem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Need lots of large cams (4 and 5) to protect crux on 1st pitch
mick1jones - AltLd dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Rich Rogers

tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 04/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

datoon - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with DT

Excellent route despite a brief off-piste choss variation on the top pitch
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Pitch 2. Excellent adventure with some dubious rock. Climbed too high before traversing right.
jameshiggins - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11 with Neil Adams

Incredible and memorable route for adventure if not technical merit. Our 100m ab rope got wet in the sea belayed off thread, nuts and cam in bluff as described in Rockfax, also thread in boulder on edge of cliff so ample to get to belay ledge. Although not hard the top pitch is serious with looong runouts
kevin stephens - AltLd - 11/Aug/10

80m ab in, good sea running.Rock dry apart from part of crack on 2nd pitch but made no difference. Shame about wandering line across slab, otherwise impressive situation. Misha on 1st, me on 2nd. Bold but easy.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with misha

Had been keen to do this route since Phil mentioned it a few weeks earlier. Enjoyable climbing on weird rock. Not technically hard but pretty run out on P2, which Phil led. Save your big gear for the offwidth towards the top of P1, I didn't and ended up doing it at a run out E1 5a (looks like there used to be a good sling placement but it's loose now). Great route, though agree with Phil that it's not quite a brilliant 'top 50' route. The abseil in is more like 80m rather than 110m as the Rockfax suggests. It's not particularly intimidating as the wall that you abseil down isn't that steep and there are plenty of footholds to get in balance for the knot swap over.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

The abb in is a little worrying, but we did not need to change at the knot as we had the luxury of an extra long abseil rope. We had slightly mis-judged the tides, so whilst I was being hit by waves, Macca quickly lead up to the high tide ledge for me to belay in the dry (At this point I would like to point out I only had a shorts, chalk bag and shoes with me). It was very cold at the beginning! The first picth was excellent, up this massive crack to the large ledge. Which I had to share with a seagul chick and nest with its mother dive-bombing me. The second pitch (i.e. Mecury connection), is a bold line which follows the crack, smearing with the feet to then abondon the safety of said lovely crack for a barely protected traverse to a bolt and ledge. A fall during the traverse would bring the climber next to the belayer! Macca managed to get to the bolt using crimps and smearing once again. The finish to the top took a bit of time to be figured out. Whilst this was going on the light had faded on us. It was left to me to second in the dusk, not really being able to see my feet and the tiny edges I needed. On the travers I took a massive swing as I could not see anything by this point, but I didnt drop to far. I got to the top at 11:30pm, pitch black. An epic climb and an epic adventure, and a throughly relieved second!
Legs - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Macca

I thought the off width on the first pitch was the crux! The top pitch is exciting though. Run out but always in balance and never too hard.
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Paul Abram

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08

P2 One of my more interesting leads. Abseil in had its moments too
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Nik Goile

I led the 1st pitch. Carvex 11 hex way better than the friend 4 to protect the crux on the first pitch. Crack is a bit wide to make an ideal friend 4 placement.
Kafoozalem - AltLd - 14/May/08 with Nolan

Mercury Direct. Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

I led crux pitch...great climb, glad to have done it after so long, really luck with the weather, it was raining everywhere else!!!!
ecowaller - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Nick Arding

Second pitch up the corner was wet so we used the original finish.
jimdanson - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/06 with Mike Adams

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/05

Direct
Tim Steward - AltLd - 21/Jun/05 with James Parrot

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 25/Sep/04 with Stu Bradbury

Samuel1989 - 2nd - 20/Jun/03 with Luke

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/01 with Guy

Is this really E2? Matt usually climbs VS and he had no trouble at all.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2001 with Oleg, Matt York

did the original E1 version. lead p1
colin milton - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/96 with eric milton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1994

While on the halfway belay ledge, three divers were laying an explosive charge out from the cliff. Not realising what was going on, when they detonated it, the belay ledge we were on shook in unison with our bowels and nerves, we were convinced the ledge could disappear and shot up the last pitch of Quicksilver at high speed !!!!! History Lesson:- Quicksilver originally went up the arete left of Mercury's corner (accessed from Mercury Connection) then out left and up the slab which was Mercury's original finish. Most people now climb Quicksilver as the big corner of Mercury instead of the left arete, then the old top pitch of Mercury ie the route originally named Mercury. Mercury Direct was renamed Mercury.
rogerskews - AltLd - 29/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

Hidden - 1991

backrope solo which made top traversing pitch entertaining.
frank ramsay - Solo - 04/Aug/90

Had the runs on pitch one. Do not eat Ginster's pasties. Poor Denis who followeed me. We escaped up Quicksilver. Amazing place with a 300 foot abseil in.
eroica64 - AltLd - 17/Jul/89 with Denis Crampton

HVS when I did it, what a climb for adventure
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

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Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard E30 of 10
E30 of 10
easy E30 of 10
hard E25 of 10
E21 of 10
easy E23 of 10
hard E11 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b6 of 9
easy 5b3 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars8 of 9
2 Stars1 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 34 (2.9%)
Lead5 of 34 (14.7%)
Followed3 of 34 (8.8%)
Alt Leads23 of 34 (67.6%)
Unknown2 of 34 (5.9%)

'Climbed'12 of 34 (35.3%)
clean O/S20 of 34 (58.8%)
clean rpt1 of 34 (2.9%)
dnf1 of 34 (2.9%)