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Fairy Nuff*** VS 4c

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[Si leading Fairy Nuff, 2 kb]18m. A real classic, nuff said! Climb the wall below the big square roof leftwards to the arete. Follow this the step right to enter and finish up the exposed hanging crack. © ROCKFAX
FA. Paul Seddon 1960

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

Photo: Si leading Fairy Nuff © Crewey-Rob
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 132 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

Simonj - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Rach

wil_perry - 2nd - 01/Sep/13 with Mike

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with James

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13

Deserved 3 star route.. Quality moves lead to great exposure. Really nice move to gain finishing crack then hand jams to finish:). Graded VS but probably at the top end of the grade.
dangmtb - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

Climb of the day. Superb feeling of exposure when you step out right onto the arete.
richnorgate - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Dan

Hidden - 2013

Frank the Husky - 2013

greglad - 2013

neilh - 2013

Great climb. Found pull on to blocky ledge tricky, subsequent move right easy with a positive approach.
mamboochris - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Katy Whitehead

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

Hardonicus - 2nd rpt - 16/May/12 with vix

Sopping wet near the crux made it extra "fun"
vix - Lead - 16/May/12 with Haydn

howlingbaboon - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/12 with Scott

antroy - Lead - 2012

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/11

ozzie35 - 03/Aug/11

Bowzle - TR - 16/Jul/11

Fell at step right - had my left foot too high?
Steve J P - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with BW

MeMeMe - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Andy

ryan118116 - 2nd - 03/Jul/11

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with rg, sp

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11

Nicola - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Lee

John Lewis - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Nick Ward

thedatastream - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/11

Not lead it before, took while to commit to the move... WAP.
Alex Thompson - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/11 with JP

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

ggflett - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11 with John Bayliss

hard move right to that upper crack - long stretch both leg & hand to get a decent grip on the necessary hold, took a while to muster it
john_ni - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Graeme Flett

cragtyke - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with gareth h

Enjoyed this much more today! I was climbing a little better, probably due to it not being baking hot and the ace step across move to access the upper crack was much easier using the big jug I missed last time. Felt like the 3 star experience this time. Bit of a epic retrieving gear by abseil in the dark but all park of the fun :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Richard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11

grubes - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Haydn

Hardonicus - 2nd rpt - 29/Jul/10 with Luke Donaldson

psychicbread - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Max

Seconded Arnaud in 2005 and found it hard then so went back today to see how it felt on the lead. Still hard but utterly fantastic - both with the moves and the exposure. Proper VS!!! Seconded Duz on Womanless Wall.
PenJD - Lead β - 26/Jun/10 with Duz Walker

Fairy TOUGH. Found the step over right onto the arete very difficult, felt more like HVS 5b to me. There must be some sort of grit monkey trick to it but I don't know it
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Nikki Smith

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/10

willworkforfoodjnr - Lead O/S - 19/May/10

vix - TR O/S - 19/May/10 with chris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/10

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Noel Peatfield

Brilliant moves all the way.. lots of suprises. the step right is ace
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with John Marsham

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Graeme H

one small damp patch to access the step right which I made a bit of a meal of but still didn't detract from the quality.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Rob

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 2010

doogstrue - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with andy s

colin milton - Lead - 18/Sep/09 with Sari Nevala

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/09

Rachel Somerville - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Richard Toon

Very nice climb - no exposure like it on a paek VS
middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Brian and Dave

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Sarah

Magnificent. Every time you get past the crux, you're met by another bit just as hard!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Carmen

Definitely one of the best VS's on grit, this is better than any of the VS's on Stanage in my humble opinion. Really interesting climbing, great fun.
smudge - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Chris Dodd

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/May/09

I was knackered by the time we did this route so I messed-up the crux (tricky little number!). Classic line though. Hard at the grade, I would say, but still VS. Just.
Andy S - 2nd dog - 09/May/09 with Bob

Amazingly good route (shame about the bird-shit at the start though!).
slacky - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Ben Abell

ianburton - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Was wetting than an Otters Pocket. The face/crack above the roof was soaked, so back climbed. Saving for a dry day (also bloody freezing)
Stuart Wildman - Lead dnf - 22/Nov/08 with Gaz Price

coffeepot - 2nd - 28/Sep/08 with jelaby

Too wet and tired to commit to the traverse out to the arete.
aldred - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/08

Matthallinan - 2nd - 05/Jun/08 with Phil Parker

plastichead - 2nd dog - 25/May/08 with Max

Hardonicus - 2nd O/S - 11/May/08

taine - 2nd O/S - 11/May/08 with Gareth

Don't ask how long it took Jon to commit to the crux...
Alex Thompson - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/08 with Jon Thompson

Crux...just ask my brother, thank God he brought himself a nice fluffy Rab down belay jacket! But I did do it...!!! And Ian Parnell climbed a couple of days after me, so it must be a classic
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - Mar/08 with Alex Thompson

climber130887 - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08 with jo smith

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Shad - Lead - 2008

nmoysey - Lead - 2008 with Ben Vickers

Hidden - Lead - 21/Oct/07

Ian Parnell - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Jon Winter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/07

Crewey-Si - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Rob

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/07

felt quite bold
Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Rich Wainwright

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07

warm up -
Mick r - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Tony H

Benwa - 2nd - 15/Apr/07 with Alex Hyslop, Nick Tucker

Tough at the grade!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Haydn Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/06

alicia - 2nd - 10/Jun/06 with Ali K

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Jun/06

FrankW - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/05 with Jane T, Joe

What a superb route. Definately one to return to to lead. well deserved of the 3 stars.
Owdham - TR O/S - 06/Jun/05 with Matt Scott

ArnaudG - Lead - May/05 with Penny

No pushover for VS!
Carl Smethurst - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/04 with Chris Shearlock

r0b - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04 with Andy Smith

Duncan I - Lead - 2004

chris sm - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/03 with Pippa Froggatt

EddieA - 2nd - 07/Oct/01 with Dave P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/00

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli, Dave Greenald

Hidden - 2000

craig h - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/98

craig h - Dec/97

craig h - 2nd - 25/May/97 with Janet Hannah

Phil West - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/97 with David Atherton

John Marsland - Lead - 20/Jul/96 with Dave Soles

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/95 with Louise Pellett

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/95

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd dnf - 14/Aug/94 with Steve Dean

Phil West - 2nd O/S - Jun/94 with Steve Wild

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/94 with Steven Delderfield

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/93 with Simon Coles

Fabulous route, one of the best VS`s on grit I have done
StevePr - 2nd - 1992 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/91

ste_d - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/91 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91 with chris jones, JT

craig h - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/91 with Jim Mellor

nai - 2nd - 1991

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/90

charlesmfrench - Lead - 19/May/81

Mark Kemball - Solo - 22/May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

evening session - just about dark as I finished. Later did with George Wilson in 1976
David Smith - Solo - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sting, Stefan Trebicki, Hidden, Hidden, bullethead, Hidden, Owdham, AdCo82, DerwentDiluted, gazbonutter, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 135
hard HVS0 of 48
HVS0 of 48
easy HVS11 of 48
hard VS27 of 48
VS10 of 48
easy VS0 of 48
hard HS0 of 48
HS0 of 48
easy HS0 of 48
hard 5a0 of 45
5a0 of 45
easy 5a18 of 45
hard 4c20 of 45
4c7 of 45
easy 4c0 of 45
hard 4b0 of 45
4b0 of 45
easy 4b0 of 45
3 Stars38 of 42
2 Stars4 of 42
1 Star0 of 42
0 Stars0 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 132 (2.3%)
Lead71 of 132 (53.8%)
Followed46 of 132 (34.8%)
Toproped3 of 132 (2.3%)
Unknown9 of 132 (6.8%)

'Climbed'46 of 132 (34.8%)
clean O/S68 of 132 (51.5%)
clean β1 of 132 (0.8%)
clean rpt10 of 132 (7.6%)
dogged3 of 132 (2.3%)
dnf4 of 132 (3.0%)