Rockfax Description
This long and intricate route weaves a complex line up a steep wall. The climbing is sustained with plenty of hard moves interspersed with good rests, but it is thin on gear and high in the grade.
1) 4c, 21m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge. Follow the slim groove above, then easier ground back leftwards to a good stance.
2) 5a, 23m. A complex pitch. Climb a steep crack and wall to good ledges. Balance precariously right then pull up to the base of a scoop. Climb the groove above to a peg, then swing right to the arete for an airy exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist.

martrin 10/Jul Lead

serious route, deck potential on P1 and P2 5a moves after traversing well right of the gear, no warning in the ground up guide, has to be E1

with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 29/Jun Lead O/S
08nbrierley 29/Jun 2nd O/S
with jamie
JonnySchofield 30/May AltLd O/S

Full value for money HVS! Hard and scary in parts.....

with Joe Fraser
tobydunford 30/May Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 30/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 13/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Mar 2nd
steveboote 22/Mar Lead
with Agnes Kowall
Hidden 22/Mar Lead
Danhan 15/Oct/14 2nd dnf

We backed off P2 as started pissing down.

with Tom Lawfield, Nick
Hidden 15/Oct/14 Lead
tim_mcd 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Manchi
Andy Clarke 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Absorbing climbing, with a thrilling P2. Quite serious in places, particularly the scary traverse. Great move out to the arete - I went big rather than delicate!

Hidden 18/Sep/14 2nd
Kate Edhouse 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, second pitch steeper and interesting.

Louis Hume 07/Aug/14 Lead

Hesitated on the crux losing strength but went fine when I committed (took some nifty footwork/balancing before I was confident to launch).

with Oli
HB-Pencil 04/Aug/14 2nd β
julesmckim 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Great route. Top pitch is interesting throughout. Good gear where you need it. Never too hard. Massive exposure!

Dave Almond 22/Jun/14 Lead

Would agree tough for the grade. Made Debauchery feel easy. Super rock and super day

Nicole Almond 22/Jun/14 2nd

Brilliant rock, lovely sunny day, midge free... superb. hard for it's grade but still a great climb.

with Dad
harold walmsley 31/May/14 2nd O/S

Found the thin crack v. hard but apparently missed a hold

with Chris Calow, Mark Hounslea
jmills94 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

me p1, neil start of p2 then greenpeace finish - thought it felt stiff for hvs!! great route and amazing positions.

with Neil McCallister
anthonydouglas 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the top pitch, exposed and committing!

Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
mark mcgowan01 18/Apr/14 -
with Anita Grey
Alex Mason 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Jemma Powell
Sardien 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Led P1 but took my time to commit to bold section (very runout!) Then sun disappeared and it got too cold to finish climb so abbed off the ledge

with Helena Robinson
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
jcasey2436 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great traverse

mynyddresident 09/Jun/13 Lead

great exposure at the top

with Rach
ross brinson 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Rees
Abi Chard 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Ann B
herman0055 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
JonesJ 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Sam Simpson 05/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Nails for HVS 5A

Cardi 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Tom R
guy757 21/Jul/12 AltLd
Dan724 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I've done. Amazing views and great rock. Scary run-out traverse right on pitch 2 followed by a harder but well protected crack climb. Finished direct which is apparently more difficult.

Tony Holdsworth 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

AL P1 AH P2 Great finish

with Andy Lawrence
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
lost.arrow 20/Nov/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
g1m147 24/Jul/11 AltLd
with Mick.
cmsg 30/Apr/11 -
with Richard Haszko, John Tomlinson
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
cem 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

with Charles Mason
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 Lead O/S
with The Reverend, Bucknole
Hidden ??/2011 -
Julian Wedd ??/2011 2nd
with A. Brierley
MikeLeeds 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Great route, nice delicate move out to the arÍte

with Kevin Bowser
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Missed move right out to arete and finished direct up corner crack

with PShearman
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead
alek 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Krystina Common, Charlie Tomlinson
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
Alexandre Buisse 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Very fun, exposed, sustained and varied.

with Dave E. Brown
Brown 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Alexandre Buisse
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Adam Booth 09/May/10 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
edpd1b ?/May/10 AltLd
with Leo Scheltinga
Stuart_Burbidge 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Seb Anderson
metal arms 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Liam FLeming 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Different Steve 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
NeilGriffiths 14/Jun/09 -
with Dave, Adam
A Crook 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 23/May/09 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
drewish 11/May/09 AltLd O/S
with SteveE9
Hidden 11/May/09 AltLd O/S
barni 13/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

top pitch awesome

with Northern
thompson1000 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with Barni
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 -
Diggler ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
ChalkBall 27/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead
HeatherF 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead top pitch again. More scary than the Vs it has to be said! The comment that i put about the move in Lavaredo should actually be in this section but i got them confused!!!!

with Carwyn
C@rwyn 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Heather said I could have the bottom pitch, but she hadnt heard about the 'heart stopping moves' on the top one then!!

with Heather and Lee
MikeT ?/Aug/07 Lead

Was fine until the peg where you are supposed to traverse instead went straight up the crack - hard! Won't forget the guidebook next time!

with SK
toasted 29/Jul/07 AltLd
with Steve Thomas
Cowflinger 18/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Williams
shoulders 18/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
James B 07/Apr/07 Lead
with Phil
Hidden ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks ??/2006 -
nicholas Barrowclough 09/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Roget ??/2003 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 18/May/02 2nd
thrutch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with johnny b
Shaved Atom ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rob Davies ?/Jul/99 AltLd

Chris led P2, the exciting bit

buxtoncoffeelover ?/Jun/99 2nd
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/98 AltLd
Brian Rodgers 31/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with Geff
lost.arrow 05/Jul/98 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
michael burrows 27/Apr/97 AltLd
with brian jones
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
babymoac 09/Jul/95 AltLd
with cash
Marti999 18/Jun/95 Lead
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
bullybones ??/1995 -
sdht 19/Jun/94 -
with Dave Ward
Hidden 30/May/94 Lead
malc 17/Apr/94 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/93 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 -
andrew300169 27/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with Tim
frost ?/Aug/91 -
tlr 28/Jul/91 AltLd
with Cal
Andy Say 30/Jun/91 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ??/1991 AltLd
with Pom
DubyaJamesDubya ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Nick Oldfield
Hidden 02/Dec/90 2nd
Neil R 26/May/90 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Phil Ingle 26/May/90 AltLd
with Mike Rose
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
AlanLittle ?/Jul/89 Lead
with Tim Dillon
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 Lead
with Bill Nash
michael burrows 29/Mar/87 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 05/May/86 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 18/Feb/76 AltLd
with John Broadwell
mikej 12/Apr/71 AltLd
with John Bickerdyke
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MattKnight, MikeLell, DanChad, druss, poeter210, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Superchop75, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, sgl0jd, EAYL
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set