2 pitches.
An interesting two pitch climb that ends up at the lower end of the Vire de Casserole. From here either select an appropriate way on or abseil 100ft to the ground:
#1. 80ft 5+ (5b) Trend left from the twin peg belay up a flake then continue in the same line to enter a right facing corner. Climb this past a narrow overhang then move up a slippery ramp on the right to an unlikely move that allows a swing into an easy groove. Up this to good ledges.
#2. 80ft 6a (5c) P Follow the obvious break out to the right. There are good holds but they are well spaced and well glossed. At the end of the traverse when all appears lost a long swing down to the right avoids the final blank section. A belay is located just above.
#1. 80ft 5+ (5b) Trend left from the twin peg belay up a flake then continue in the same line to enter a right facing corner. Climb this past a narrow overhang then move up a slippery ramp on the right to an unlikely move that allows a swing into an easy groove. Up this to good ledges.
#2. 80ft 6a (5c) P Follow the obvious break out to the right. There are good holds but they are well spaced and well glossed. At the end of the traverse when all appears lost a long swing down to the right avoids the final blank section. A belay is located just above.
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Route of Interest
Cancoin
Grade: 6a ***
(Dave)