Super Vol-au-Vent* 6a+
4 pitches. The star is for the third pitch though the rest of the climb has its moments. 1. 70ft 5 (5a) Climb up to the block and follow the corner that bounds its left side (looking at the block, laybacking is probably best avoided). Continue on the same line to a stance 15ft below the break that runs across the cliff. 2. 60ft A0 Cross the break and climb the short bolt ladder (legitimate pulling on the bolts, now there’s a refreshing change) up the smooth wall to reach a belay on the ledges of the Vire de Casserole. Descend 30ft rightwards to a belay below an open chimney to the right of a line of overhangs. 3. 80ft 6a+ (5c) Climb the slippery chimney for 15ft then escape out left to less polished rock in a bay. Move left out of this and traverse left to a thin crack with a collection of pegs and bolts spattered about it. Up this until it is possible to move right to a good stance on ledge. 4. 60ft 6a+ (6a) Climb the easy groove above the stance until it is possible to get out onto the buttress on the right. Up this with thin moves around a bulge to reach the cliff top and a well earned tick.
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