White Magic*** 6c+
25m. A superb and complex set of moves up a series of very shallow grooves in the nose of the pillar R of Grey Pride. Given *** but the smooth rock may not be to everybody's taste, ** if it puts you off. Although the route navigates around a small patch of loose rock in its lower half, all the climbed rock is very solid. Key holds are small and hard to spot and some moves are devious. The suggested (on sight) grade allows for this. It feels much easier once the moves are known and might also feel easier if well-chalked. Start below a shallow groove just L of a borehole in the steep wall immediately R of Grey Pride. Gain the faint groove L of the borehole and climb it to big flat holds. Avoid the groove directly above (which contains loose-looking blocks) by traversing into the scoop on the R, which is solid. Exit the scoop just L of the obvious brown niche and continue up a tiny pillar. Where this fades, move first diagonally L to a good handhold then horizontally L to a big foothold. Gain the shallow groove above and exit up its L wall with difficulty on small holds to a good hold below a continuation groove. Climb the R wall of this with further difficulty on smooth rock and exit L to the Grey Pride lower off.
Harold Walmsley 12/Aug/2010
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Saw Dan and Alex try and do it first
Glyn Davidson - Lead β - 18/Jul/13 with Alex Grey

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Jul/13

Dan77 - Lead dog - 18/Jul/13 with Glyn Davidson

Abbed, cleaned and brushed then shunted. Had to interrupt shunting for more brushing but eventually it climbed well. A more direct diagonal line up the "patch of loose rock" from 2nd bolt was heavily chalked but used some very dodgy looking blocks. Don't be fooled by this chalk. The original line hand traversed horizontally R below this (with some difficulty) to join Thin on Top and avoid the poor rock
harold walmsley - TR dog - 09/Jul/13

Would say 6c for onsight. Many holds were blind and felt very balancy throughout. Good crux though!
partz - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Josh Robinson

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

Certainly felt 6c+ at least 3 tough sections, crux was certainly no pushover. bit dusty could do with a little more traffic. nice route.
Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with mick, Rosyk

Honestly thought this route was about 6a+, possibly 6b given that the rock is still a little dusty. Quite good (1*) but not three star IMO.
Lee Proctor - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with dafrob

Abseiled, brushed clean and reclimbed on shunt to check (a little patina only). Lee are u sure u did the right line. It is much harder than any 6a+ I have done recently, you may have strayed onto "Thin on Top" (they have some common ground part way up). This is easier and not as good? My description hints it may be overgraded but not by as much as u indicate.
harold walmsley - TR rpt - 30/Apr/11

First ascent
harold walmsley - Lead β - 12/Aug/10 with Colin Struthers

Voting
Total votes cast 16
hard 7a0 of 7
7a0 of 7
easy 7a0 of 7
hard 6c+0 of 7
6c+5 of 7
easy 6c+1 of 7
hard 6c0 of 7
6c1 of 7
easy 6c0 of 7
3 Stars2 of 9
2 Stars1 of 9
1 Star5 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....1 of 9
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