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White Magic*** 6c+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Grey Pride		 
Thin on Top >>
25m. A superb and complex set of moves up a series of very shallow grooves in the nose of the pillar R of Grey Pride. Given *** but the smooth rock may not be to everybody's taste, ** if it puts you off. Although the route navigates around a small patch of loose rock in its lower half, all the climbed rock is very solid. Key holds are small and hard to spot and some moves are devious. The suggested (on sight) grade allows for this. It feels much easier once the moves are known and might also feel easier if well-chalked. Start below a shallow groove just L of a borehole in the steep wall immediately R of Grey Pride. Gain the faint groove L of the borehole and climb it to big flat holds. Avoid the groove directly above (which contains loose-looking blocks) by traversing into the scoop on the R, which is solid. Exit the scoop just L of the obvious brown niche and continue up a tiny pillar. Where this fades, move first diagonally L to a good handhold then horizontally L to a big foothold. Gain the shallow groove above and exit up its L wall with difficulty on small holds to a good hold below a continuation groove. Climb the R wall of this with further difficulty on smooth rock and exit L to the Grey Pride lower off.
Harold Walmsley 12/Aug/2010
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 3 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Honestly thought this route was about 6a+, possibly 6b given that the rock is still a little dusty. Quite good (1*) but not three star IMO.
Lee Proctor - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with dafrob

Abseiled, brushed clean and reclimbed on shunt to check (a little patina only). Lee are u sure u did the right line. It is much harder than any 6a+ I have done recently, you may have strayed onto "Thin on Top" (they have some common ground part way up). This is easier and not as good? My description hints it may be overgraded but not by as much as u indicate.
harold walmsley - TR rpt - 30/Apr/11

First ascent
harold walmsley - Lead β - 12/Aug/10 with Colin Struthers

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