The Wizard of Oz*** 7b
[Berry Head DWS, 2 kb]600m. DWS S1 The best climb in Britain? A sustained DWS traverse which starts by reversing Magical Mystery Tour I, followed by a new safer version of Rainbow Bridge (F7a+) (with a bit more F7a climbing but no recourse to walking). The finish links up Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+), Cavewoman (F6c) and White Rhino Tea (F7a). The best way of staying dry is to start at low tide to give an easy passage through the Green Grotto and low enough water for Terminal Zawn. Bird banned March 1st to July31st.... ..... ..................................... .......... .............. .......... .......... ...... ....... ........ SECTION 1 PROMONTORY TO GREAT CAVE F6a+ S1 Walk out to the Headland at the Southern Tip of the Old Redoubt. Locate a grassy gully 50m to your right (looking out) and descend this and the wall beneath on stacked flakes. A rightwards traverse (facing in) leads around the headland and into the Blue Grotto with its memorable bridging manouver across a chasm. Climb wade or swim the Green Grotto depending on the tide and continue to the Great Cave. ..... ........ ...... ............. ..................................................................................................... ........... SECTION 2 RAINBOW BRIDGE (REVISED) F7a+ S1 Waterline traversing leads right to the pocketed streaky wall and on to a low rest beneath the Pink Block. Onwards to the Crystal cave and a rest before committing to the slopey crux sequence. Climb up the technical groove and break right and locate and downclimb Look Before You Leap (F6b) (good idea to study the photo's to help you locate this). Back at sea level a sequency crux around a rib (7a) leads into a sea cave (The Cauldron F7a). Exit via the rope "bridge" and downclimb Eight Ball (F4+). Continue via the wild jug rail of The Wave variation (F6c). Terminal Zawn is negotiated by a safer (S0) variant (at mid tide) which follows Rainbow Bridge to the hands off rest in a large niche/hole but then descends on the right to join Gluteus Maximus which is followed to a well earned rest on Terminal Zawn Ledge........................................................................................ ............. SECTION 3 OZ WALL TO WHITE RHINO TEA F7a S0 Follow Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+) to its junction with the pinnacle. Downclimb the left wall on calcite and sandstone jugs. A pumpy traverse of the cave wall leads to a rest on a rock bridge. Now ascend the easy crystal chimney back to daylight (Cavewoman F6C). Now reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation and take a rising line into White Rhino Tea and finish up that. Pumped yet? .................................ARTICLE HERE http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218
Ken Palmer FSA 18/Aug/2010

Photo: Berry Head DWS © Kafoozalem
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This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

fell off the top of white rhino tea. so pumped from so much climbing. story of my life! a bit gutted, but such a fun route. like nothing ive climbed before.
markalmack - Solo dnf - 23/Aug/14 with gwen, james marjot

harvie - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Naomi

Hidden - Solo β - 26/Aug/13

amazing, Took 4 hours, nearly came off getting into the cauldron traverse then steady,
brices - Solo RP - 26/Aug/13 with Ben Norman, duma, Sash

Hidden - Solo RP - 09/Sep/12

Fell off the cruxy rib beyond the Look before you leap downclimb, picked up with an 8-ball downclimb. Skulked off at the end of rainbow bridge.
Tim M - Solo dnf - 09/Sep/12 with Frank

Hidden - 2012

Cailean Harker - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/11

Fell off the 6b+ section after the two crux sections. Swam home :(
quiffhanger - Solo dnf - 31/Jul/11

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hankyc, Dale Turrell, jhs3jtmh, ERH, James Oswald, Dan Jenkin, little_tammy, thermaldan
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hard 7a+0 of 4
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