UKC

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

840m. SECTION 1 PROMONTORY TO GREAT CAVE F6a+ S1
Walk out to the Headland at the Southern Tip of the Old Redoubt. Locate a grassy gully 50m to your right (looking out) and descend this and the wall beneath on stacked flakes. A rightwards traverse (facing in) leads around the headland and into the Blue Grotto with its memorable bridging manoeuvre across a chasm. Climb wade or swim the Green Grotto depending on the tide and continue to the Great Cave.

SECTION 2 RAINBOW BRIDGE (REVISED) F7a+ S1
Waterline traversing leads right to the pocketed streaky wall and on to a low rest beneath the Pink Block. Onwards to The Crystal Cave and a rest before committing to the slopey crux sequence. Climb up the technical groove, break right and locate and downclimb Look, Before You Leap. Back at sea level a sequency crux around a rib (7a) leads into a sea cave (The Cauldron). Exit via the rope bridge and downclimb Eight Ball. Continue via the wild jug rail of The Wave. Terminal Zawn is negotiated by a safer (S0) variant (at mid-tide) which follows Rainbow Bridge to the hands off rest in a large niche/hole but then descends on the right to join Gluteas Maximus which is followed to a well earned rest on Terminal Zawn Ledge.

SECTION 3 OZ WALL TO WHITE RHINO TEA F7a S0
Follow Oz Wall Traverse to its junction with the pinnacle. Downclimb the left wall on calcite and sandstone jugs. A pumpy traverse of the cave wall leads to a rest on a rock bridge. Now ascend the easy crystal chimney back to daylight (Cavewoman). Now reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation and take a rising line into White Rhino Tea and finish up that. Pumped yet?

ARTICLE HERE: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

FA. Ken Palmer 18/Aug/2010.

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High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 6
High S2
Mid S2
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Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Verdon Dreaming

Grade: 7b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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