600m. DWS S1 The best climb in Britain? A sustained DWS traverse which starts by reversing Magical Mystery Tour I, followed by a new safer version of Rainbow Bridge (F7a+) (with a bit more F7a climbing but no recourse to walking). The finish links up Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+), Cavewoman (F6c) and White Rhino Tea (F7a). The best way of staying dry is to start at low tide to give an easy passage through the Green Grotto and low enough water for Terminal Zawn. Bird banned March 1st to July31st.... ..... ..................................... .......... .............. .......... .......... ...... ....... ........
SECTION 1 PROMONTORY TO GREAT CAVE F6a+ S1
Walk out to the Headland at the Southern Tip of the Old Redoubt. Locate a grassy gully 50m to your right (looking out) and descend this and the wall beneath on stacked flakes. A rightwards traverse (facing in) leads around the headland and into the Blue Grotto with its memorable bridging manouver across a chasm. Climb wade or swim the Green Grotto depending on the tide and continue to the Great Cave. ..... ........ ...... ............. ..................................................................................................... ...........


SECTION 2 RAINBOW BRIDGE (REVISED) F7a+ S1
Waterline traversing leads right to the pocketed streaky wall and on to a low rest beneath the Pink Block. Onwards to the Crystal cave and a rest before committing to the slopey crux sequence. Climb up the technical groove and break right and locate and downclimb Look Before You Leap (F6b) (good idea to study the photo's to help you locate this). Back at sea level a sequency crux around a rib (7a) leads into a sea cave (The Cauldron F7a). Exit via the rope "bridge" and downclimb Eight Ball (F4+). Continue via the wild jug rail of The Wave variation (F6c). Terminal Zawn is negotiated by a safer (S0) variant (at mid tide) which follows Rainbow Bridge to the hands off rest in a large niche/hole but then descends on the right to join Gluteus Maximus which is followed to a well earned rest on Terminal Zawn Ledge........................................................................................ .............
SECTION 3 OZ WALL TO WHITE RHINO TEA F7a S0
Follow Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+) to its junction with the pinnacle. Downclimb the left wall on calcite and sandstone jugs. A pumpy traverse of the cave wall leads to a rest on a rock bridge. Now ascend the easy crystal chimney back to daylight (Cavewoman F6C). Now reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation and take a rising line into White Rhino Tea and finish up that. Pumped yet?
.................................ARTICLE HERE http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

Ken Palmer FSA 18/Aug/2010


ClimberDateStyle
highrepute 26/Sep/15 DWS dnf

As far as terminal zawn. Too tired to continue.

Ed Babs 08/Aug/15 DWS dnf

As far as the crux of rainbow bridge. Headed over to Coastguard cliffs to suss out the finishing routes. Need to check out the pirate rope cave and gluteous maximus next time.

Hidden 01/Aug/15 DWS dnf
kingholmesy ??/2015 DWS

Dry all the way only to fall off the top of White Rhino Tea. So tired!

markalmack 23/Aug/14 Solo dnf

fell off the top of white rhino tea. so pumped from so much climbing. story of my life! a bit gutted, but such a fun route. like nothing ive climbed before.

with gwen, james marjot
harvie 30/Aug/13 Solo O/S
with Naomi
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Solo β
brices 26/Aug/13 DWS G/U

amazing, Took 4 hours, nearly came off getting into the cauldron traverse then steady,

with Ben Norman, duma, Sash
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Solo RP
Tim M 09/Sep/12 Solo dnf

Fell off the cruxy rib beyond the Look before you leap downclimb, picked up with an 8-ball downclimb. Skulked off at the end of rainbow bridge.

with Frank
Hidden ??/2012 -
Cailean Harker 23/Sep/11 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 31/Jul/11 Solo dnf

Fell off the 6b+ section after the two crux sections. Swam home :(

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set