Start directly to the right of Balas and climb the low overhang past a single bolt to a good (grass covered) ledge. The good climbing starts here… Climb up as for part of Sabbath’s Theatre but head straight up the wall (rather than traversing off to the right) via ever more sustained moves. At the obvious bowl move out right to a good rest and then up and left via long moves to the hidden belay. Be careful - there is a bit of loose rock near the belay. Note: this might be the first recorded ascent but may not be the first!!!
*** Please note, moving into Balas and avoiding the hard moves in the scoop after the big ledge is not the route, and probably reduces the grade a notch or two. ***
Aaron Tonks 28/Aug/2010