UKC

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb straight up the wall to the overlap (poor rest in a niche) then follow the thin, pumpy crack above. The start is serious; the hard moves near the top can be protected. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1968.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , E3's for 2020

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 31 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Hugely enjoyable and better than any so-called route at Millstone etc etc. Good holds, good gear, and just good fun. Good value at E2 as well...
Show beta
βeta: Hugely enjoyable and better than any so-called route at Millstone etc etc. Good holds, good gear, and just good fun. Good value at E2 as well...

Logged Ascents

288 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 40 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Phantom Zone Left-hand

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Egerton Quarry)

Loading Notifications...