UKC

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

14m.

Rockfax Description
Two good sections split by a big ledge. Climb the thin once-pegged crack to ledges. Power up the twin cracks in the groove to finish. Ignoring the left-hand crack is a touch harder and also more strenuous. © Rockfax

FA. Les Ainsworth 1967.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Wilton wanderers , McCoys Homestyle trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Richard Hession 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely combination of balancy moves down at bottom and then great thuggy climbing up top with a nice rest to be found with good bridging out right :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely combination of balancy moves down at bottom and then great thuggy climbing up top with a nice rest to be found with good bridging out right :)
Rampikino 12 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My second E1 Lead on Grit, and quite physical. If it hadn't been for the ledge I'm not sure I would have done it! Thank heavens for good gear! :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My second E1 Lead on Grit, and quite physical. If it hadn't been for the ledge I'm not sure I would have done it! Thank heavens for good gear! :-)
JR 16 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Fantatstic, good gear and good climbing. Dont start up the corner, the front of the face is the correct route, and harder. Good contrast to the top section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantatstic, good gear and good climbing. Dont start up the corner, the front of the face is the correct route, and harder. Good contrast to the top section.

Logged Ascents

702 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 55 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 97
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ocean Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Standing Stones)

Loading Notifications...