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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb strenuously across small ledges to a jammed finger-nipping block. Finish awkwardly through the small roof. A Direct Start is f5+. © Rockfax

FA. Graham Kilner 1961.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Miki Knorr 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: CAUTION!!! Loose flake quite nerving at the mid section avoid as much as you can. Without using the flake make it quite a hard VD.
βeta?
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βeta: CAUTION!!! Loose flake quite nerving at the mid section avoid as much as you can. Without using the flake make it quite a hard VD.
M_Robinson 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block half way up
βeta?
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βeta: Loose block half way up
Struck Lucky 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose flake just after the initial traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: Loose flake just after the initial traverse.
donkarlo 6 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Steady climbing but the move through the roof can feel a bit nervy sometimes, don't sit back and think it's over when you get past the rocking block !!
βeta?
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βeta: Steady climbing but the move through the roof can feel a bit nervy sometimes, don't sit back and think it's over when you get past the rocking block !!
JR 16 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for VS 4b.
βeta?
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βeta: Hard for VS 4b.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 90
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Womanless Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Standing Stones)

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