20m. A pumpy Wilton classic, powerful and devious, though with good gear throughout, rope work can be a little problematical. Strenuously take Clapped Out to the 'seagull-shaped' roof then compose yourself and launch right long this to a bridged rest at it far end. Just when you thought it was all over you find that the final crack takes no prisoners. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An intense route with brutal climbing along the slanting roof (easier for dwarfs with thin fingers) to a jamming (not bridging) rest, then more precarious and powerful moves to a nice top-out. Hard and safe.
FA. Hank Pasquill 1970
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Got very pumped on the traverse due to long legs and fat fingers - managed to recover enough to do the crux though.
My first e4!
No closer than I was 6yrs ago. 6b IMO
Silly foot slip and lob just starting the underclings. More successful 2nd time up.
|dave mann||??/2013||Lead rpt||
|Chi Cheng||24/May/12||Lead O/S||
My 1st E4. The Undercuts are easy if your short and indoor strong. Last set of movers off the jag are quite hard. not sure if it was 6a for me.
|Dan Mckinlay||?/Aug/11||Lead β|
|Jacob Bloodworth||01/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
1st attempt at onsighting E4. Got across the traverse fine, and part-way up the final crack/groove, but got stopped where the crack opens out. Desperate moves - couldn't do it!
|Toby Dunn||08/Aug/09||Lead O/S||
fell off in the groove
|Chris Reid||01/Sep/01||Lead O/S|
|Rich Kirby||12/Jul/00||Lead O/S||
|Mark Kemball||14/Aug/82||Lead dnf|